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Wow, now that's some file you have posted. Lots of really good information in there. Where did you find it?
When googling my error codes this file was constantly popping up. Really good stuff.

Have you had the instrument cluster out recently?
No, I haven't.

This is a good resource on fault finding K-Bus: BMW E46 K-Bus Troubleshooting
Thanks for the resource.

Do you know what is the risk of ignoring this error and driving the car while the error is there?
 

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Checked the wires, they seem fine, error keeps coming back after cleaning it.

BTW the car started not to regenerate the battery; couldn't start the car today after a stop. Freaked out as I thought it's the EWS problem but it was just the drained battery.
 

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Nareck, can I confirm what you have done?

You took a used M52tu harness cut off the 10-pin connector on the used harness and soldered into your original harness is that right?

This should work, but I worry the connections on the used harness are just as bad as the connections on your original harness....although it sounds like the errors you have now are different than what they were.
 

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You took a used M52tu harness cut off the 10-pin connector on the used harness and soldered into your original harness is that right?
That's right.

This should work, but I worry the connections on the used harness are just as bad as the connections on your original harness...
What makes you think so?

I plan to write my detailed journey which lasted years. I just want to finalize car's running state first.
 

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What makes you think so?
Well I think the M52TU 10 pin throttle body connector is of a flawed design, exposing highly sensitive TB connectors to engine heat, air flow, and elements with little protections.

So, soldering in the connector from a used harness would be bringing all those same issues to your original harness.

I think I would prefer to solder in new wires and connectors. As noted here:
 

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Not sure if you figured this out, but I had a similar issue on my 328i many years ago. I was ready to give up and trash the car, then one day when I had my intake off my dad tried bypassing the PCV valve, and BAM it was fixed. I thought it was the throttle body as well, and even had replaced it same as you. So check the PCV valve or crank case ventilation.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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On the face of it, I'd have to agree. Throttle faults are checked/run/error flagged as an EML fault. CCV system has no tie-in with the EML.
Maybe a coincidence, whilst fiddling with the CCV a better connection was made with the throttle connection?
Ask @kburger. He's been going down this path for some time.
 

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All I can tell you is that I had a cracked PCV/CCV and I was getting similar throttle body codes and had the dreaded EML light and struggled to idle. No disrespect taken. We are all here to try to help. This was just my experience. It couldnt hurt to look into if the issue is still around.
 

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I'm no expert by any means, but just another avenue to check. I also did replace my throttle body but it did not fix my issue, but anything is possible. It was years ago when I went through this, but I believe my dad plugged the PCV and the car finally idled.

Correct me if im wrong but the PCV is controlled by vacuum, so a leak in the assembly could cause fluctuations in the vacuum and impact the ICV.
 

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To give more context on my experience. I was getting the EML light come on after 10-15 minutes of driving and the car would go into limp mode. I would have to pull over and turn the car off and wait until it went away, it seemed that when the car was cold it was less of an issue. It was an extremely inconsistent issue until it became a constant issue that prevented the car from running all together.

on the code read out we got throttle body errors. we replaced the throttle body and the issue remained. it did not resolve until we replaced the PCV
 

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Hello everyone!

Sorry to be reviving an old thread but I'm having a problem right now with my throttle body that I'd like to share and see if someone has insights...

When driving if I do a hard acceleration I get plausability errors.

I tried reving the engine on neutral to see if the codes would come up since it says that is due to plausability between pots but when at neutral there is no errors... only happens when driving.

I was looking at the pwg angle and dwk angles on INPA and noticed that then opening the throttle body the dwk angles would only be registered when the pwg angle was around 15° then the dwk would creep up... anyone has noticed this behavior?

Tomorrow I'll clean the connector and do the Ohmic measurements but any feedback regarding this strange angles are welcome!!

Can anyone share their experience on this?

Thanks!
Gabriel
 

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2000 E46 323i, 3.0L, 2.8L and 2.0L Z3's
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I was looking at the pwg angle and dwk angles on INPA and noticed that then opening the throttle body the dwk angles would only be registered when the pwg angle was around 15° then the dwk would creep up... anyone has noticed this behavior?
Under light loads, the first 15% of the accelerator (drivers wish) is provided by the Idle Control Valve. See below

Font Line Parallel Slope Symmetry




I have also written up the MDK potentiometer cleaning procedure: How to Clean the M52TU MDK Throttle Body Potentiometers
 

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Giving some feedback...

I removed the throttle body and did the measures on the body connector... values are in specification but I noticed that on the 2-3Pin when I start the movement instead of going down the values(reversed) it actually at first goes up.... I dont know if maybe this is what is causing to throw codes...

At idle: 1780 Ohm
First movement: jumps as high as 1880 Ohm than starts going down normally....

I'll try to clean from the outside as mentioned on the document and see what happens... also will do the measurements now on the DME connector side to check cabling... be right back with more info xD
 

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Currently out of electrical contact cleaner T_T

I'll look out for some during the week and give some feedback if it had some good results!! Thanks for the reply NZ00Z3!!

Also... I saw that I was able to reach some of the contacts without removing the magnet from the throttle body.... will try to do that... and after try some silicone oil.
 

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Hello everyone!

Reinstalled everything together today after the cleaning of the potis and went for a test ride...

Jeez! What a machine!! completely different... The problem was solved and the car is a lot more responsive regarding the gas pedal...

Thanks a lot everyone especially NZ00Z3 for the document
 
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