[nareck]

Any updates @e46lucas ? I am having the same issue for a long time, tried changing TB (used) 3 times. Same issues. The only thing that was changing is how fast it went to limp mode at first I drove for couple of months then weeks, now it fails within 20 minutes...
Thanks @Effduration for the tips I should probably try the 4th tip (Replace just the connector). Just don't want to ruin something which I am not sure is the problem.
Attaching the pics of error codes in INPA I am having in random order:

 

[nareck]

A clue from the 112 code. Potentiometer 1 does not have a power supply. It should be 5V. You need to check the voltage at pins 2 to 4 and 1 to 7 at the MDK or there equivalent at the DME end.

Attached is some MDK information I have found on the Interweb over the years. Hope it is useful.

Thanks a lot! That PDF is a gem. First will test the TB then will do the voodoo on the 10-pin connector. Meanwhile found 2 more photos of other error codes from past.
It's annoying how one error code (173) says "short circuit" other (119 from earlier post) says "mecanical error" :-|

 

[nareck]

I've tested one of my "failed" TBs (other one is under the hood yet). There are clear deviations from the PDF provided by @NZ00Z3

Requirements: 1600 - 1000 Ohm, tolerance: 10%
2 & 5 : 1866 - 1228
2 & 3 : 1720 - 977
1 & 6 : 1753 - 1012
1 & 8 : 1843 - 1182

Requirements: 1000 - 1650 Ohm, tolerance: 10%
4 & 3 : 1035 - 1725
4 & 5 : 1040 - 1725
7 & 6 : 1066 - 1758
7 & 8 : 1205 - 1848

I am a complete newbie so I'd appreciate any advice. Are the above measurements enough evidence to be sure that TB is broken?

 

[nareck]

What are the readings for pins?

• 2 - 4
• 1 - 7

Its a resistance divider circuit, so need the above reading as the starting values.

The information was found on the Interweb some time back. It's likely the readings some owner got when testing a MDK. I would not yet use the numbers as a hard and fast pass/fail test until we get some experience with them. Get me the above requested values and I run them through a spreadsheet for you.

2 & 4 : 982
1 & 7 : 992

 

[nareck]

I've tested my 2nd TB:

2 - 4 : 1048
1 - 7 : 1041

2-5 1834 - 1154
2-3 1952 - 1173
1-6 1965 - 1191
1-8 1812 - 1124

4-3 1228 - 1958
4-5 1165* - 1831
7-6 1229 - 1968
7-8 1163 - 1821

*4&5 pins are very sensitive, on different TB (as a whole) positions the starting value was changing in the 50 Ohm range.
Re-tested the 1st TB, got different values for 4&5: 1237 - 1865 instead of old 1040 - 1725.
Could've been my error during the first measurements. The values were not changing like in the case of the 2nd TB when I was moving around the TB.

Generously applied wire cleaner by ABRO. Interesting to see if values will change tomorrow.

 

[nareck]

Looks like I'm going to have to pull a known working MDK and do some testing to confirm my thinking.

That would be very helpful.

If anyone else has a working throttle body please post the resistance measurements, it would help in finding a way to diagnose it.

 

[nareck]

I've just remembered that during resistance measurements when I was rotating the axe (which is connected with the cable) the values were always changing BUT when I was rotating the smaller metallic part (the one that overrides cable-axe position) on some pins the values were not changing. Is this a sign of a problem?

 

[nareck]

There will be some slop in the system, so by turning the system with reverse forces, the potentiometers will be turning slightly differently.

There was no change at all (for some pins).

 

[nareck]

Where the pins that did not change relate to the throttle potentiometers and the ones that did change relate to the pedal potentiometers?

I haven't noted which were the pins.

 

[nareck]

I have bought used wiring harness, cut the 10 wires leading to 10-pin connector and am about to re-solder that into my existing harness. Similar to the @Effduration's 4th suggestion. Was practicing soldering during these few days... Any tips before I ruin the harness is appreciated.

My cable is loose, there's no tension at all when gas pedal is in default state, the adjustment part is not functioning. Can this be a cause of the problem?
I'm going to use the MDK that's not having resistance jumping.

 

[nareck]

Here is my situation with the cable:

 

[nareck]

Another question related to soldering is where to cut existing wires from?
Compared to the used wires I have bought existing ones' colors are faded. I am not sure what to make of those faded colors (caused by heat, short? or just dirt...). Cutting from deeper position will make soldering more challenging.

 

[nareck]

I don't have a multimeter currently. And I haven't measured the resistances of the harness.

Currently it's the first time in the last couple of years that I was struggling with this problem that I can see something that is off: the state (faded colors) of the wires going into the connector. It may sound weird but I am excited about it. I have made some close up videos of the wires. I don't know if this is a big deal, you guys are more experienced, I'd like to hear your opinion. Also hard to decide from where to cut the old wires.

M52tu MDK Wires

youtube.com

 

[nareck]

Yes the wires are dirty on the outside. That does not make them damaged.

That's not dirt. I have sprayed/cleaned them with contact cleaner before recording the videos. It looks like they have been effected by heat. If you look at the bright wire colors near the pin, for example the green, they are ok but moving towards the other direction it becomes yellowish but the wire itself is clean.

 

[nareck]

Test for 5V on harness MDK connector pins 1 and 7.

How to position multimeter's pins? (Sorry, I have never measured voltage).

BTW I have noticed that wires for 9 and 10 pins are a bit thicker than the rest.

 

[nareck]

I am sorry for silence. Just finished the soldering. Boy, it took me a ling time... Haven't put back MDK and other stuff yet.

 

[nareck]

I have messed up something: after cleaning error codes with INPA new errors appear without even staring the car, just key in 2nd position. Attaching those errors. Can anyone give me a hint what can be the reason?

I've started the car, worked for a minute or so smoothly then went into limp mode.

 

[nareck]

Will check again. I remember connecting the connector, is it possible to connect it in a wrong way?

 

[nareck]

No, I haven't taken out the ICV, only plugged out/in its connector.

 

[nareck]

I have cleaned it not so long ago, and the car was not being used afterwards. It must be something with the wiring as I don't even start the car and those errors appear.