Go to the auto parts store where they have loaner tools, get a suitable torque wrench for the job. NO torque wrench anywhere is accurate at the limits of its capacity, either the high limit or the low limit. Autozone, and O-Reillys have Loaner Tools, you basically buy a tool and take it home, then when you bring it back they give a full refund that is instant. I think that they take your card and hold the charges, then cancel the charges when you bring their stuff back.Bottom line is you do not have to buy a tool that you don't want or need to keep. The wrench you have is nowhere near what you need for this job.

 

You have a 320d, that puts you in the EU somewhere. I don't know anything about loaner tools for you.

 

thanks for your reply. no, theres no place to loan tools from here.
thanks anyway for the feedback.

 

torque it to 210nm, then tighten it just a tod tighter. Done.

 

^^^
That.
"Tight enough" is probably fine here.

 

thanks guys. will do that way. i was not comfortable leaving it less tight/overtightened.

 

You really can't OVERtighten it if you don't use a bar longer than a meter!

My version is me on a 16" breaker bar, which translates to something around 300 ft- lbs.

t

 

250NM is the same as 25kg on 1 meter long bar.
How long is your breaker bar?
Example, if the bar is 0.5 meters, then a person of with a weight of x standing on the bar:

x = 250/(0.5 x 10) = 250/5 = 50kg or about 100 lbs.

 

im using a half meter long pipe. didnt take a lot of strength to release the old nut. i thought it would be more difficult.
another question, TIS manual states to lightly coat the nut with oil, is it referring to coat the threads, the mating surface or both?
thanks guys, you are really helpfull.

 

another question, TIS manual states to lightly coat the nut with oil, is it referring to coat the threads, the mating surface or both?

I believe the ans is both threads and mating surface.

So if you're 150 lbs, then don't eat anything for 2 weeks to get down to 100 lbs before working on the nut.

 

Go a little bit more, yes.
What nobody discussed is NOT with the torque wrench. Go to the limit of your tool, then switch tools.

 

yes. got this allready. i will use pipe and mandrel of my wrench.
thanks.

 

i think i need a new hub. someone been here before me. there are marks of hammer and angle grinder on the hub. it also seems like the outer race got stuck before and they didnt replaced the hub. i dont like this.
by the way, inner and outer race are out.

 

If that's the worst of it I'd knock down any high spots and just send it. Maybe make a not to replace the hub next time.

That is, unless the race slid off super easy indicating that it's small or something like that.

 

0,25mm less. Thats a lot. The new bearing goes in easily. not acceptable. new one is on the way.

 

I would replace the hub and bearing on both sides.

 

i would also. but thats a lot of work for my circumstances.

 

Personally I don't see the point in doing the other side if the hub there isn't also worn.
Calipers? Yes, both sides. Control arms? Yes, both sides. But a hub? Nope. It's only purpose is to be flat enough for the wheel to mount to and fit tightly enough into the bearing that it doesn't spin or wobble.

IIRC they get like $60 for them. That's a moderate expense for no real gain if it's not worn.

 

Wild. So that texture on the outer bearing surface may be the only time in my life I will ever see some sort of stippling tool in action. I don't know for sure as I've only done this by hand in an emergency and it sure wasn't that uniform. The process seeks to create uniform high points on metal that has suffered from a spinning race. The high points will then hold the race from spinning at the cost of a very short life. I drove up to remote Canada and did this on a buddy's new travel trailer to rescue it and get them home. Maiden voyage on a new high end trailer, so the bearing lasted about 150 miles. Looked like they simply forgot to lube one of the 8 bearings. I cut the damaged one off, stippled the damaged hub surface, slapped on a new bearing and we made it back to Idaho from BFE.

Anyhow, that is wild. Never seen that process in use and done by some sort of machine. If I'm right there was a spun outer bearing also, and they stippled it but it has clearly spun again and polished off the texture where the race sat. Er, spun... Pretty cool.

 

my brother wanted to recharge weld in the bad surface, then machine it to right meassure, but that meeds precision machines and my lathe is not that precise.
i decided to put a new one and avoid short life of new bearing, vibrations and do the job twice.

 

Replace it with a new one.

 

yes. its suposed to be here on monday.
local stores wanted 75€ for a metalcaucho branded hub, no way. they asked 150€ for a febi hub.
ordered a mapco hub for 46€. this hubs are well known quality here. do you have mapco brand on USA?