They are dead or dying.

Like any damper, when you push down or go over a bump, the suspension should come back to the starting position and stop. Perhaps a small overshoot and return to starting position is OK, but not so much. If you're hearing a "thunk" over bumps, it could be the dampers (shocks) or could be other items. At 140k you're not going to have much more life left in them, if at all.

 

If there anything like what ours where like when I replaced them:
1) clunks, thud coming from rear of car
2) piston does not return when compressed
3) cylinder badly corroded
4) poor tracking on highway, car does not feel planted in back
I found the bottoms of our rear springs were broken as well as the shocks being shot. Replaced with Suplex springs, Bilstein touring shocks, and BMW factory mount kits. The difference it made on the car on the highway was a vast improvement(no noises either). Hope this helps.
regards

 

I changed the original shocks and struts on my 2004 325Ci a year ago at 86k miles and they were all pretty shot.
Conversely, the original shocks and struts on my 2002 530i were still in great shape at 105k mikes when I changed them last summer. That surprised me.

I***8217;d get under there and have a good look.
Broken rear springs are common. Shocks can leak when they get worn. Mounts and bushings can disintegrate.

 

as others stated at 140k would be real surprised if they’re still “good”.

as far as thunk sound it could be a rear shock mount broken or other items. time to inspect.

 

as far as thunk sound it could be a rear shock mount broken or other items.
time to inspect.

Surprised no- one's mentioned: look at them.

And +1 to Don- upper shock mounts in the rear.

:hmm:
:idea:

 

By the time you've jacked it up and crawled under, might as well change them. They owe you nothing. look closely at the spring bottoms. As suggested, could be something else, but I'd start there. Try FCP or Rockauto.

 

The rear of the car does sit low. Is there a special section where the spring crack? If the spring is broken, why does it not just totally collapse and fall out?

 

it’s usually one of the “dead coils” (base-close to base) and not in the middle. so spring stays in.

 

My shocks started leaking at about 140K. I replaced them with e36 M3 Sachs shocks, a recommended replacement on the xi chassis.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

Interesting. E36 m3 shocks in the rear of the xi, cool. Does that also work up front?

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

 

Most often any noise from the rear shocks aren't the shock itself, rather the shock mount. This left to it's own for too long of a time and it starts to fail. That's where you see the posts about the upper shock mount tearing the body of the car where it mounts to with the two 8mm nuts. We're very pro-active about inspecting/checking these.

New shocks, protection boots, bumpstops, mounts & paper gaskets. Don't forget the large washer on the outside of the lower shock bolt.

Broken springs: Almost always it's the lowermost coil-coil and a half. If the power-coating has flaked off and/or of the spring is broken, replace with new springs. I still have a shop full of E30's & E28's in here with the original springs. Nowadays the cheap coating on the springs flakes off and the bare spring steel is exposed to the elements. It oxidizes and snaps off.

All of the spring is important. Cars that have the lowermost coil snapped off on one side (one usually lets go before the other) will see the car behave differently on a left hard turn than that of a right hard turn.

 

Like he said. Perhaps someone can opine on the assembly sequence.

 

These cars are pretty stiff from the factory and therefore don't offer the usual cues of blown shocks. Only way to tell is to pull them (very easy) and check.

FWIW, when I tackled my first suspension overhaul on an E46, the original shocks had 120K miles on them. No noise, no indication that they failed from a perspective behind the wheel but when pulled and tested they had zero rebound.

 

Surprised no- one's mentioned: look at them.

If there's oil on the outside, they are beyond done.

The converse is NOT true: no oil doesn't mean they're ok...

And +1 to Don- upper shock mounts in the rear.
I recently had a bad experience with the formerly-
recommended Meyle Heavy- Dooty, so maybe Lemforder?

t

 

Likely rear upper shock mounts.



I replace upper shock mounts when replacing shocks...I replaced my M3 shocks at around 70K, the upper mounts were toast/torn/weak. Also look for the reinforcement plates.

There are also reinforcement plates for the front strut towers....

 

I replace upper shock mounts when replacing shocks...I replaced my M3 shocks at around 70K, the upper mounts were toast/torn/weak. Also look for the reinforcement plates.

There are also reinforcement plates for the front strut towers....

Rear heavy duty shock mounts
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-mount-e36-e46-hd-33521092362my

Rear shock mount reinforcements
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-mount-reinforcement-e30-e36-e46-z3-bmp-design-51718413359

Front strut mount reinforcements
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-upper-strut-mount-reinforcement-pate-e46-51717036781

 

I tried to look at them without jacking the car... Could not even see the springs. Looks like I'll have to get under the car to inspect. I'll try this weekend.

 

No need to get under the car, but you'll need to get the rear of the car in the air and remove the wheels to inspect the condition of the damper shafts for burn marks, oil, rust, etc.

 

OK, I'll jack it up and try to adjust the parking brake while I have the wheels off.
I still have Zero clue how the 2 long nuts on the parking brake handle are supposed to be adjusted

 

Loosen the cables all the way at the handle and then adjust the shoes to the inner drum on the rear rotors. Then go back and tighten the cables on the handle until you have 0 drag on the parking brake shoes when the handle is down but 3 to 5 clicks up for full parking brake engagement.