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Could anybody recommend me a battery that's in Canada don't think we have Autozone here thanks !! Please pm me
Do you have super Walmart ? Or try Costco if you have the membership , but i know for sure Costco discountinued carry Kirkland battery for BMW and MERCEDE here in the state. they only carry Interstate battery now. I was at Costco 2 weeks ago trying to get one and the Tech told me so. I also noticed they only have Interstate batteries on their shelves.
 
Gotta say this just isn't so battery master.
Alternators maintain a constant voltage, not current.
So while a 300A alternator (fictitious example) is capable of outputting 300A, it will not unless the load demands that much.
Normally any alternator outputs 14.1v as everyone who ever read their voltage using the OBC hidden functions has seen. 14.1v whether they have a tiny or huge battery. Both batteries will charge at a rate appropriate for their size, and less than a quick charge that a garage might zap your battery with to move you out of their shop quickly. (quick charge will use an elevated voltage to force an elevated current level)
So go ahead and install that enormous alternator even with your regular size battery with no fear. And use the excess to power your subs and refrigerator.


PS--lower rate charge does stress a battery less, and deposits a higher quality charge on the plates
Stinger9, you are correct when it comes to replacing the energy used during the cranking on a daily driver - the battery is sufficiently charged that it is in the CV (constant voltage) portion of the CC/CV lead-acid charge profile when the alternator kicks in - and yes the 14.1 will charge the battery with a self-limited current. Battery size doesn't matter for this scenario.

However, if the battery has been sitting (with weeks of self-discharge > ~20% Depth-Of-Discharge, or hours of running accessories), then the battery would like to be in the current limited CC portion of the charge profile after cranking, yet the alternator will provide high current until the voltage rises close to the 14.1 of its CV. And here battery size matters - a larger battery will support a larger initial charge current - simply based on a the battery amp-hour rating.

Image


From: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

If I get a chance this weekend, I'll put a 500A/50mV current shunt on my E46's battery negative cable and actually measure the current in both scenarios.
 
I got quoted for $135 from a local auto parts store for a diehard.
He looked it up on his computer for my car.
This store supplies auto mechanics with their parts so I'm sure they're accurate.
Didn't get the specs however. But even if it has stock CCA's, I don't see any issues.
Still a new battery. When I bought my car from a dealer about 4 years ago, it came with some no name brand econo-pro and it surprisingly lasted longer than I expected.
CCA on our batteries only have to be strong enough to start your engine.
What determines CCA needed are your engine size and compression ratio.
Having 6 cylinders and 10.1:1 compression ratio means you need a fair strong battery.
The engineers have already done the math lol. By getting a bigger CCA battery, it's like getting a power lifter to move a 20 pound box that an average man can move.
 
If I get a chance this weekend, I'll put a 500A/50mV current shunt on my E46's battery negative cable and actually measure the current in both scenarios.
I think we agree on 96% of what we believe. And if you do encounter the deeply discharged battery sucking up a larger charge current than optimal for a short period, in the long run life ain't perfect.
I love a guy that comes back with real facts to bolster his proclamations. Interesting stuff.

And I'll be real eager to hear anything you learn from inserting a shunt inline with your battery cable. I'd die in heaven if my e46 had an ammeter like all cars used to come with standard. Love to see what's going on under many different modes. Wish they had put that in the OBC hidden functions. Same with oil temperature while I'm dreaming. Love to see that when I'm driving around in 115 degree summers!

PS, where are you going to get a deeply discharged battery to use in your experiment?
 
I think we agree on 96% of what we believe. And if you do encounter the deeply discharged battery sucking up a larger charge current than optimal for a short period, in the long run life ain't perfect.
I love a guy that comes back with real facts to bolster his proclamations. Interesting stuff.

And I'll be real eager to hear anything you learn from inserting a shunt inline with your battery cable. I'd die in heaven if my e46 had an ammeter like all cars used to come with standard. Love to see what's going on under many different modes. Wish they had put that in the OBC hidden functions. Same with oil temperature while I'm dreaming. Love to see that when I'm driving around in 115 degree summers!

PS, where are you going to get a deeply discharged battery to use in your experiment?
He can buy someone's dead battery for the core charge of $5 - $10 lol.
 
The engineers have already done the math lol. By getting a bigger CCA battery, it's like getting a power lifter to move a 20 pound box that an average man can move.
LOL, yes the engineers have done the math to put the cheapest smallest battery possible in to the car so it lasts the 3-year factory warranty period.

This engineer suggests using the biggest battery that fits, not for the CCA (which is a rather specious measurement of battery size - it relates more to instantaneous power delivery based on internal resistance and battery plate design, rather than total energy stored which is measured as the Amp-Hour (Ah) rating of the battery).

A battery which is used daily for cranking near 100% of its rated CCA is not going to last as long as a battery used at 50% of its rated CCA for cranking. Internally there are some complex things happening to the lead plates each time energy is taken out (cranking) and put back in the battery (alternator) - and this relates to battery wear, but based on the proportion of energy taken out vs. total energy stored (Amp-Hours, not CCA).
 
PS, where are you going to get a deeply discharged battery to use in your experiment?
A small 400W inverter powering a 100W lamp for a few hours should drain about 20AH or more from my brand new 105AH AGM battery.

PS - In my spare time I also build backup power systems with pure sine wave inverters and large lead acid deep cycle battery banks (currently working on a 2000W model with 6x 110AH Group 27 deep cycle marine batteries)
 
LOL, yes the engineers have done the math to put the cheapest smallest battery possible in to the car so it lasts the 3-year factory warranty period.

This engineer suggests using the biggest battery that fits, not for the CCA (which is a rather specious measurement of battery size - it relates more to instantaneous power delivery based on internal resistance and battery plate design, rather than total energy stored which is measured as the Amp-Hour (Ah) rating of the battery).

A battery which is used daily for cranking near 100% of its rated CCA is not going to last as long as a battery used at 50% of its rated CCA for cranking. Internally there are some complex things happening to the lead plates each time energy is taken out (cranking) and put back in the battery (alternator) - and this relates to battery wear, but based on the proportion of energy taken out vs. total energy stored (Amp-Hours, not CCA).
I can appreciate that, and totally understand and thought about it working near it's 100% potential on each start. However, there are two reasons I personally prefer to stay with the stock battery. One, I rather get a new one every 3 to 5 years, and two, I don't want to add extra weight.
 
I can appreciate that, and totally understand and thought about it working near it's 100% potential on each start. However, there are two reasons I personally prefer to stay with the stock battery. One, I rather get a new one every 3 to 5 years, and two, I don't want to add extra weight.
PM with a new battery every 3-5 years is a tactic to ensure a good battery, if you need that. And since 97% of a battery is recyclable, it is still green, but will cost you some green. :)

Extra weight? You got me there. But, the extra 10 or so lbs isn't going to matter much on a daily driver weighing in at around 3500lbs. Unless of course you are racing it and have put the car on weight reduction program elsewhere too. But, how much does all the accumulated crap in the trunk and back seat of your car weigh? 10 lbs, 20 lbs? ;)

If money isn't a factor, and weight is important - look in to lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries. They are incredibly light and can produce huge amounts of power for their size. Check out this 480 CCA motorcycle battery that weighs only 3.75 lbs! http://www.batterytender.com/Batteries/480-CCA-Lithium-Engine-Start-Battery.html Two of those in parallel would provide enough CCA for an E46, and 4 in parallel would be the same Amp-Hour as a Group 49 battery.
 
optima bluetop d34 here going on 6 years, will be 7 in march.

I cant remember how fitment went, im pretty sure it was fine as I didn't do my stereo until 2 years ago in which I changed up my battery grounding
I can attest to the LiFePO4 batteries.

I had a swift gti track car and I used to start it with a modified Dewalt Hammer drill 36v battery. Total weight was 600grams. Started and run my hi comp 1.3L

I would have run 2 in parallel for a street car with air con and sound system though
 
A small 400W inverter powering a 100W lamp for a few hours should drain about 20AH or more from my brand new 105AH AGM battery.

PS - In my spare time I also build backup power systems with pure sine wave inverters and large lead acid deep cycle battery banks (currently working on a 2000W model with 6x 110AH Group 27 deep cycle marine batteries)
Have experience with deep cycle batteries in RV's
Can take them down to zero and then fully charge again

What the need for pure sine wave?
 
Ok I've got the slow cranking on my '99 328i.

Bouncing between the Walmart H8 which seems to be going between $123 - $132 Their website is acting up and can't give me prices right now.

Or use the $20 off $100 coupon at Autozone www.retailmenot.com/view/autozone.com#print.6547320 and get the H8-DLG for $142.99 - $20 = $122.99.

Any preference between the 2?
 
OK, no matter what you have to watch this guy renew his 21 yo battery with Li-ion cells.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPKuyQZ--X4

Guarantee you won't regret it.
You mean watch him hollow out a car battery housing and wire a bunch of old li-ions in series and stuff them into the old case, splashing electrolyte all over the place while wearing flippyfloppies. Brilliant. I actually do regret watching it. He made money from wasting my time.
 
Johnson Control makes the Duralast(Autozone) and the DieHard(Sears),and most Everstart (Walmart) batteries. They also own Bosch,Varta(OE BMW),and others.There are very few actual battery manufacturers,and they rebadge their products for many different customers.
 
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