I mean it is possible to remove the timing cover in-situ, just not fun…….at…….all.

 

The intake is very easy to remove, though the fuel rail is a pain.

But if you do the timing chain cover you have to deal with flushing and bleeding the coolant, removing and replacing the crankshaft bolt, and re-sealing the head gasket to the timing chain cover.
Bah!

 

@BaliDawg, thanks! How does that coolant pipe coming in from the back relate to getting the timing cover off?

 

One of the hard lines connects to the back of the timing cover

 

Your biggest concern would be how not to tear the C shaped nose of the head gasket!

 

I think I would just pull the engine with all that's involved in that job.

 

To remove the timing cover, you have to remove the oil pan or the head. Make sure that's what is leaking. Oil filter housing gasket, vanos line, and valve cover gasket are more likely and easier.

Sent from my S61 using Tapatalk

 

I'm at 360k miles, I've changed the ofhg 3 or 4 times, the most recent with the viton version and it's not leaking. the vanos line is good and the valve cover gasket is getting to the end of it's road but is not leaking. I did the crankshaft seal about 1.5 years ago as it was leaking, but after this, everything is clean but the timing case cover interface. The leak isn't terrible, but it builds on the steering rack/reward over time.

 

Just removing the HM pulley bolt would be so un-fun.

 

As already mentioned (and I believe also noted in TIS) pay special attention not to damage the head gasket. Else the job just a bit more involving... Isn't the timing cover machined with the block at the same time to ensure a perfect fitment of the headgasket? so need to be 1000% sure it's leaking...

 

A little bit easier anymore, as the headgasket is now a MLS steel gasket.
Try not to break one doing a timing cover reseal on a 1988 M5... Scary.
Still need to exercise patience.

 

One would only need to attach the timing cover for machining if....the block were "decked".
Cylinder head, no.

 

The real trick is to pull the pan, maybe even the front crank seal. (for the experienced only, can get into big trouble quick!) Then using feeler gauges carefully separate the bottom of the gasket from the top of the timing cover.
Then pull DOWN and out.

The rubberized printed seal on the gasket will be compromised some. Study and apply small amounts of quality RTV to redress and "Assembly is the reverse of removal."

 

TIS has a procedure for the timing cover removing only the oil pan. I just followed it

11.14.110

 

But but NO, that can't be done.....
LOL

 

Hmm, so what will seal up between the timing cover top side to the head? Not the old head gasket that the thin sealant beads are gone or damaged during the cover removal.

 

Bubble gum and a prayer...... lol.

I'm guessing that it's perfectly fine to do that way by the TIS. If it failed a lot after doing it that way they wouldn't do it at all and recommend pulling the entire head to replace the gasket.

Even so... I'd be sweating it.

 

Assuming OP has a small oil leak on the timing cover, and let just say it's possible the sweat oil is between the cover top and the head. So now he remove the cover, then put it back using the same old and worn head gasket. Is this better or worst, before and after?

Now, I can see the reason one is taking the risk doing that way if one must replace a broken chain guide, but to try fixing a leak and using the same old worn head gasket?

 

Assuming OP has a small oil leak on the timing cover, and let just say it's possible the sweat oil is between the cover top and the head. So now he remove the cover, then put it back using the same old and worn head gasket. Is this better or worst, before and after?

Now, I can see the reason one is taking the risk doing that way if one must be replace a broken chain guide, but to try fixing a leak and using the same old worn head gasket?

This. Pulling the timing chain cover without pulling the head seems like a fix that's going to make the problem worse.

03

Dowel pin

5 H8X14

2

07119942283

These are going to make it pretty darned impossible to get the thing back on AND keep it sealed.

I did it with a relatively fresh M10 that had chewed up its front cover. It took several tries.

For an M42, I just pulled the head when the profile gasket gave up.

t
wouldn't do dat.

 

Here is the problem with BMW's systems, testing methodology and scan tools:

BMW is a BIG business. Amongst the many things they do to cut down on operating costs is to write,design the test plans in ISTA that guides the technician towards the fastest repair.
Most of the test plans are solid, some not. Given that we're "thinking technicians" here, some of the conclusions drawn up towards a resolution of the issue with the customers car are just ridiculous. Furthermore they way the 'guided tests" are written, it's no wonder that they are (trained) parts replacers.

Take the above example: If the timing cover is leaking. Just replace the pan gasket, glob up the head to cover interface with goo and if it doesn't leak..... BMW is off the hook for reimbursing the dealer for an extra 5 hours of labor.

Would this be the approach of the conscientious BMW DiY guy? Likely not.
But like I mentioned before, there's a completely different level of skill involved in replacing the head gasket, timeserting the block and bleeding the cooling system.
Many, not all will have additional issues after such work?

 

This is why I will vote just leave it alone, not worth it.