Put the flywheel back on?

 

Not always possible if the engine is on a stand.

 

I just ordered a timing kit from eBay, and that's when I realized, I won't be able to lock the crank because I took off the flywheel.

Timing kit for timing the Vanos? I never locked the flywheel, just set the crank at TDC using the pulley marks.

 

We don't use the flywheel locking most of the time when performing camshaft associated work. Some of the holes are too rusted, others can't get the plug out. Some older cars were 3°-4° off on the mark.

Long ago I reverted back to the way we used to time up Porsche air cooled camshafts. We use a dial indicator on #1 or #6.

Then when we're doing engine rebuilds on various S14 through S38 (non vanos cars) we usually install timing gears that we have slotted. Then we install a large degree wheel onto the crank pulley and adjust the camshaft timing for best overall performance. Unless a track car we usually set to 105°-106° intake and 101°- 100° exhaust. Overlap.

 

Now that's a REAL timing chain. Nice big fat double row IWIS chain.

 

I think you're indeed overthinking it a little. A little, not a lot. The prospect of completely losing timing can be a daunting concept because we're all thinking of the piston hitting the valves, etc. But the reality of the concept is pretty pedestrian. If you took a timing belt off an engine and then someone just spun each camshaft and the crankshaft randomly to mess things up, it would take about 30 seconds to line them up provided the marks are there. So confirm the marks, even paint them with orange nail polish if you wish, etc. It's not rocket science though it can feel like it for sure. And of course it's worth the extra time to understand the process. Do you have a factory manual? If not, I'll copy and paste the pages for you out of mine.

I've locked front crank pulleys in place with chain and bolts through the pulley if it has holes to crank the bolt on or off on an engine stand like you are. If no holes, then that's not possible. I have even inserted sockets through these holes such that rotating the crank pulley causes the socket to "jam" the pulley in order to remove/install but you have to take care that you're getting a solid structural jam there...

 

I have the Bentley manual somewhere around in my computer, and I know BaliDawg has a link to it, but if you could paste the section into this forum so others can see it if they ever have the same questions as me

 

I time engines all the time on an engine stand without flywheel attached. Just line up the mark on the crank pulley...Its hard to see, so once I find it I mark it with yellow or red paint.

When you you are setting timing, its actually harder than you think to move pistons, but frequently check the mark on the pulley to make sure you are still at TDC, particularly when putting chains on sprockets and when installing the cam locking blocks.

50's kid video is best for vanos timing.

 

This is one of the reasons that using the BMW engine stand, you use an adapter plate and place the engine onto the stand mounted on the SIDE.

Makes access to the rear much easier.

 

That's a cool idea. I've used my shop crane to just set engines on the bench with wood blocks nailed in place to hold them for full access (painting, etc). I've never seen a side mount - cool.

 

MrM...
Is there a special stand to do the side mount method? I just have a plain vanilla harbor freight stand.

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Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

 

Yeah, I like the side- mounted version, too.

For the M10's, I have a pipe welded to an old engine mount.
Super handy.

t

 

I like that idea. I really like that idea

 

Mild steel plate. Make it to fit 4 or 5 spots on the side. Then weld on a pipe to go inside the stand, replacing the universal one it came with.

 

Stuff a few feet of rope down a spark plug hole. Make sure it's ont the compression stroke so you do not bend a valve.