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How to Smoke Test

65K views 36 replies 19 participants last post by  kaboom28  
#1 ·
There are so many requests for solving problems that usually start with "do a smoke test for vacuum leaks" that there's a real need to have a single thread dedicated to smoke testing. Then we can just post the link to this thread when someone needs smoke testing info. Please chime in with your tips, links, experience, etc., and I'll curate it all in this first post. I'd like to dedicate this thread to @jfoj for posting most of this information in various threads over the years. I plagiarized his posts heavily. 🙇

Smoke Testers
Tricks to Doing it Well
  • start with a fully cold engine, some leaks go away with heat expansion of parts
  • put the front end up on jack stands so you can get under it while looking for smoke
  • remove all engine covers (top and bottom), air box, and anything else blocking good visibility all around the intake manifold (power steering reservoir, cabin microfilter tray, etc.)
  • use a mechanics mirror and bright light to search for smoke
  • open the oil filler cap while you pump lots of thick smoke into the intake until smoke is coming out the hole then replace it, that ensures smoke has filled the crankcase, keep pumping while you search for smoke leaks
  • remove the one-way valve from the brake booster grommet, plug it well, then see if the STFTs go down

Common Leaks
  1. Upper and lower intake boots
  2. Upper intake boot around F connector
  3. DISA main O-ring and shaft area
  4. Vacuum hoses and plugs at the rear of the intake
  5. Fuel pressure vent hose that connects to the F connector on the upper intake boot and under the drivers floor board where it connects to the fuel pressure regulator
  6. CCV and hoses, especially the lower oil return line
  7. Dipstick and dipstick guide tube
  8. Oil fill cap
  9. Valve cover gaskets and cracked valve covers
  10. SAP vacuum line to Kombi valve on front of engine, this will not leak smoke because of the control valve under the rear of the intake
  11. Power brake booster, sucking jet pump, and related hoses
Note that the brake booster usually cannot be smoke tested because of the input vacuum check valve at the booster connection.

Smoke Test Videos






BAVauto Diagnostic Smoker - P0171 and P0174 Smoke Test

How to Find Vacuum Leaks With a Cigar (Life Hack)

How to Make a Smoke Machine

BEST automotive smoke machine you can build
 
#3 · (Edited)
I bought the cheaper Stinger model when the company offered it (they don't anymore I believe). Still one of the best tool purchases I've made.
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Here's one of my smoke tests:

What diameter PVC cap should I buy to make a homemade plug for the upper intake boot? In the above test, I use a long funnel that I tape into place, but as you can see, it's not a perfect seal. Would be great to have a PVC cap or similar with a tapped fitting in the center; that way I can just use the boot's hose clamp and get a better seal.

I could just remove the MAF sensor and take it down to Home Depot to match it up, but if anyone has that info handy, it would save some hassle. Thanks!
 
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#9 ·
Way too expensive. Just get the Stinger unit for less than half the price.

I suppose that a 3" cap could be bought and glued onto the short piece of 3" diameter pipe and then drilled and tapped/threaded to install the appropriate barbed fitting for a hose to connect to a smoke machine. Just a thought.
Yeah that was the idea. Thanks for the input; 3" is a good place to start.
 
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#17 ·
I'll disagree, but only because going the 'cheap' way - specifically referring to the first YouTube vid posted in the thread (that's how I did mine) - The actual pump is not disposable. The only disposable parts are the latex glove, the tape to seal the glove to the intake boot, and the cigar...

Latex gloves? Well, get a small box for $5 and you're good for a lifetime of smoke tests - and they come in handy for oil changes, etc. when you don't want to get your hands filthy... Tape? again, a single roll for a dollar or 2 and you're set forever. And you can get cheap cigars for around $1 each.

So for a total 'investment' of around $13 - $15 I have everything needed to do literally dozens of smoke tests (with the caveat that I will spend an additional $1 - $1.50 for a new cigar each time)...

If you're looking at $50-ish smoke machines, then it's going to be years and years before I've spent enough to even approach that expense. And, just for the record, the cigar / pump / glove method works ABSOLUTELY !00% as well as a dedicated machine... so you are not giving up the 'quality' of the test by going the DIY route in this case.
 
#18 · (Edited)
+1 on the Stinger smoke machine.

I'd seen Spanner post about it a while back so when I suspected some vacuum leaks earlier this year I bought one and used it with great success. The thing consistently pumps out very thick white smoke and is easy to use, it really works well.

Only downside is that burnt mineral oil smells pretty bad... I'm sure the cigar would smell a little better.
 
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#20 ·
Good post Bali!

There is a big difference with the machine we use, in that not only does it generate smoke in 3 modes; High, Low & pulse. It also has a digital meter built into it that gives me a value of what the actual leak number is.

We hook up the machine and turn it on. If in about 90 seconds the value is about
~25 or less, my fuel trim values are NOT likely the result of a vacuum leak.
Albeit my machine is $,$$$.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I think I am about ready to add one of these tools for my garage. Let's talk about the different models available today, costs and benefits.

I see models on fleaBay and Amazon ranging from $800 for an OTC to $400 for an Autool to paint can types under $100. Keep in mind I am looking for a decent unit to use on my BMW's in my garage so the OTC or Autool level EVAP smoke testers exceed my needs (and budget).

Any suggestions or recommendations?
 
#23 · (Edited)
#24 ·
I love my Stinger smoke machine BUT it's probably worth pointing out that you do need an air compressor to make it work. A cheap pancake compressor from HF is $60, so you'd be around $200 all in (minimum).
 
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#26 ·
Question, If the smoke machine is placed at the upper intake boot with MAF removed, is our system sealed to the point where it is completely sealed? The only way the Autel can build 10 PSI is if it is a completely sealed system.
 
#27 ·
Well....that's the whole reason for the smoke test---to determine whether or not it IS completely sealed. If there are no vacuum leaks, then yes; it's sealed.

Let's say you have a pinhole leak somewhere; the pressure is going to build up faster than the leak can relieve it, so I still wouldn't trust anything whose smoke pressure coming out of the hose couldn't be dialed back from 10 psi.
 
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#31 ·
Finally got around to making an adapter for the intake boot:

Pieces from Lowe's. I think it was like $9 for the PVC parts and I had the brass fitting already:

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My 330's intake boot internal diameter (ID) is almost exactly 3.5", so I took a tape measure and searched through the boxes until I found the right combo of pieces to make it work. Supposedly (don't quote me on this) 325s have a 3" ID MAF/intake boot, so my adapter wouldn't work on one. Measure before you go.

1/2" hole drilled and Teflon tape to seal the threads:

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More Teflon tape and also epoxy to get everything together:

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In the car with the smoke tester hose attached. I haven't yet tested it, but it's quite snug in the intake boot with the screw clamp tightened:

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#34 ·
You can make a Smoke Machine for $15 using a big Peanut Butter jar, a Harbor Freight Soldering Iron, Hand Pump, and a bit of JB Weld.
I used this video as my guide but engineered it to my liking. I used two sections of a steel golf shaft for the hose connections and permanently attached the Soldering Iron with JB Weld as well.
 
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