I swapped my ecu over to ms43 recently, and am trying to figure out what hardware I want to use for turboing. Is anyone currently running the complete cxracing kit? What fuel pump and injectors are you using? Any suggested tuners? I have dyno time.
CarbonZHP
What turbo setup to use on M54?
CX racing turbo kit is recommended from who I've asked (iowna330xi). He's currently helping his friend install one too. For injectors, there's a thread in the boosted forum
A tuner I can suggest is gelashvilli performance on Facebook. Check out their YouTube channel
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1235396
I think cwarel and pole position are running walbro 455
A tuner I can suggest is gelashvilli performance on Facebook. Check out their YouTube channel
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1235396
I think cwarel and pole position are running walbro 455
For E85, im thinking walbro 450. Id rather be over the top than need to buy another one during tuning.
I believe Synchro Design Works has a turbo kit for the MS43 cars, and they use Alex Fuller for tuning at Markert.
CarbonZHP, I know you had challenges getting your MS45.1 burble tune from markert, but MS43 is totally different, and I've heard a lot of really good things about Alex.
Gillashvili isn't local to the united states, so if you want a dyno tune from him that wont work.
CarbonZHP, I know you had challenges getting your MS45.1 burble tune from markert, but MS43 is totally different, and I've heard a lot of really good things about Alex.
Gillashvili isn't local to the united states, so if you want a dyno tune from him that wont work.
I didn't have a very good experience with markert, or Alex. He was quite unresponsive
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bottom part would likely be just as difficult. Would need a scavenge pump
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So here is cons and pros about CX racing kit
Cx racing kit is well designed but its obviously made by hand , and what i mean made by hand is that parts sometimes will not line up from a kit , I had intercooler piping not line up on hot side so i had to improvise to go around all the stuff thats there to keep A/C in stock location you would have to bend lines that come off compressor I gently used my 36mm wrench shuffed in a good spot to pry on and I did it. It worked perfect but not for long , on a hot summer day something exploads under my hood and I smelled the freon gas and I knew it was ac line that was next to the exhaust and I thought it had melted because it was 1/8 away from exhaust manifold , but that wasnt the case. Actually the clamp on the hot side that comes off the turbo to a 90 degree elbow that clamp tore the rubber line at least that was my verdict. So the conclusion of CX racing and keep A/C in same location is possible but not practical. Also my exhaust pipes wouldnt match , the downpipe is only 2.5 inch which is too small for my application ( you can easily make it 3 inch ) the downpipe off turbo to a center pipe never lined up , Center pipes turns under the car and my pipe had too wide of a bend and was at least 2 inches lower than lower point in the car which was bugging me a lot because it broke and was making a lot of noise and I caught few tickets for which I found myself in jail a year later. Anyways to conclude this I would only recommend buying intercooler kit and a manifold form CX racing kit they also got good turbo's which I use now it was 600 bucks for gtx3582r which got drained in oil because oil drain line kinked too much heat was coming off the manifold which made rubber loose its consistency and it collapsed on itself hence drenching turbo with oil to the point where I had a quart in the intercooler LOL , turbo has no shaft play and doesnt burn oil ))))
Now I took my ac out completely and im planning to run an electric unit in the "cancer" compartment of the engine bay , the reason why I took my a/c comp out is because i was getting tired of my oil drain line getting fcked up every so often, at the turbo there is that aluminum drain adapter that bolts up and the hose used to break( crack from heat ) and I would oil all over the place which caused fire , and then I just drilled a hole in the side of the block where compressor used to be I put a half inch brass fitting in there ( tapped it and all) Off the turbo I got that aluminum drain adapter that goes to 10an hose which I tapped on the inside and put a brass pipe around 10 inches long and connected it with a rubber hose Problem solved but no a/c now ? what the hell am i gonna do ?? So i looked up A/c compressor for hybrid cars and guess what toyota prius uses electric unit which has 3 wires and i assumed we got power ground and signal wire which isnt that had to make, but the question is if that comp is running on 12 volts ? also I just started loooking into it so I gotta find wiring diagram , Id have to buy ac comp with the lines that come off of it so i could weld them to the oem lines.
FUELING
For the fuel injectors you could use green giants since we got the deadtimes for the, for the inectors that were in my post which are Siemens Deka red 440cc I was unable to find deadtimes nor nobody would share them with me , like Injector website that have them would not share info because they say if i fck it up ill complani bla bla bla bunch of cry babies and BS they fed me on that one ( also guy was kinda offended me asking for dead times thats for my use and I told him that it would of only been my responsibility, but NO , oh well fck you and ur website) Got some 1000cc injectors off ebay for 300 bucks ( I dont trust them at all at this point ) So id say dont cheap out on injectors make sure u get the information right.
Fuel pump
I got walbro 455LH off amazon and they got for 50 bucks which buggs me out every time I look at that , so I hopped on it and bought 2 of them , so far I put 1 in and its not giving me problems at all
Fuel pressure regulator I went with AEM 6 an lines ( thats where i fcked up ) I should of went straight for 8 AN lines because my fuel rail can accept 8an lines ( now its 6 an) and I also want to run e85 and I want to make sure I have no problems with fuel. I used stock plastic fuel lines that go up to filter and after that its all 6 AN lines. F
FUEL PUMP sender that is untouched as of now , but I am planning to cut the neck for fuel off of it and replace with 2 6-an bulkheads for 2 fuel pumps ( 1 pump works with the car like normal off the key and the other pump will be boost controlled with a a bypass switch incase the other pump goes bad I have another one to drive on )
Fuel Filter I used a cheap 30 dollar fuel filter off ebay which is 100 micron and Its prefect so far , the only problem I had it came with all fitting and adapter 6,8,10 an adapter but the 6-an adapter the hole that was in it was so god damn small and I just found out recently about it drilled it to right 6 an hose diameter on a drill press and called it a day, filter is washable because of metal mesh , after a year of use and abuse I pulled it out and it was clean.
FUEL RAIL I bought rallies fuel rail which cost me good 300 bucks with mounts and all ( i have an m50 manifold ) and that thing has no problems either im happy with it
Now we gonna talk about heat management in the engine bay .
Before i put the turbo on I had a plastic valve cover which warped so i threw it out and bought 240 dollar aluminum valve cover and a 60 dollar gasket for it , took out CCV system and drill 4 bungs for catch can ( 3 used ) The aluminum valve cover has no problems with ,it fits perfect operates normal and doesnt warp or melt.
COIL PACK i had to cover up coil packs because downpipe almost goes right next to them and it had melted my harness somehow so I cut up a sheet of aluminum and placed it on top of valve cover almost like a ugly looking vanity cover
CATCH CAN SET UP
Im running 2 catch cans in the car one in the bumper well on driver side where fog light is at and the other one in the "cancer" spot 2 lines where each one goes to 1 catch can . Why would you ask I have 2 catch cans? well While i had one -10 line going to 1 catchcan which goes to atmosphere , I still had a lot of pressure in the crankcase dont know why and dont really care since I fixed it by placed another catch can with another -10 line. before catch cans my valve cover would blow oil form the gasket ( aluminum valve cover) and cover up my windshield with oil.
Oil supply You can buy a double banjo bolt and go from vanos oil supply I had that set up for quite a while and had no problems with it , now I bought an oil block for 100 bucks and I have oil pressure sensor screwed into it with the new supply line ( 6an supply goes to 4 an)
Oil drain
Best spot for oil drain for cx racing kit if you remove ac and drill a hole on the side of the block
Second goes probably timing cover but I had problems with it ( I used a screw on bung with a nut on the otherside and special rubber washers ) it leaked likea mofo.
Oil pan Honestly my opinion for oil pan bung I think its not the best to use but possible , the Hose routing would be funny )
Scavenger pumps Ive never tried these because I want my car reliable , See one car with that setup but it had a supercharger on it , the guy had to use 2 pumps Idk why nor do it care))))
AIR FITLER FOR TOP MOUNT
This is where it gets tricky
My turbo has an inlet of 4 inches I ordered a mushroom filter and its fcking huge and will not fit under the hood nor in front of the turbo because turbo sitting very close to radiator support which sucks so implanning on cutting radiator support and weld extra metal on it so it doesnt become too weak because I need to cut a goot inch or so out of it.
MAF maf is the biggest btch for me because I went with RS4 audi maf doesnt give me problems on regular driving . Stock maf in blow through will not work sensor will brake and there is no boulges on the pipe so it will keep blowing off . So to go RS4 maf is 220 for a brand new maf off ECS tuning then the housing was over 100bucks for 3inch housing pig tail a few bucks , so you looking at 300+ for a maf blow through application that is limited to 1800kg'hr i think and If you want gelashivilli to tune it , he wont do it he will ask for a mustang maf and that setup goes for 500 bucks
Another choice is to go MAP which I tried and I have my innovate boost controller MAP sensor work with dme and boost gauge with no problems ( should test it further)
Cooling BRUH I USE STOCK COOLING NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER \put a good water pump in with metal impeller that is " high performance kind of thing " and thats about it beside brass bleeding screw
Made my engine run 84 degree celsius in the tune On a dyno idling its at 186F doing a hard pull goes to 190( stock beat up radiator thats about 16 years old or more god knows also had a hole in it that was jb welded )
So when I hear someone that you need to upgrade ur cooling system I laugh because I overheated my engine 3 times ( heater hose was never tightned and had a small leak only when system would have pressure in it)So i wasnt able to find the leak when car is standing still and idling so dont hate))
So power wise I made 370 hp at 5200rpm on 10psi and I could put a lot more timing in and if i could rev my car past 5200rpm on pull im sure it would make a ton more because my power kicks in at 4500rpm also fuel was at 10afr on a hub dyno. This is where I am now stuck because engine would not rev past 5200 rpm and I cant find a problem , also when I log through rom raider Its says im only running 10 degrees of timing and its supposed to be like 19????? So idk wtf is going on stock ecu been kicking my ass for the past month and nobody seems to know the solution to my problem. I got my fueling on point now ( during a pull it stays 11.3 and during normal driving 13-14.6 and I finally get good gas mileage. If you need more information regarding something that I missed lmk
Conclusion for CX RACING kit
Best and cheapest way you buy
1) Intercooler kit
2) Exhuast manifold or make it youreself ( I will eventually make my own because I want to set my turbo further away from radiator support so i can fit an air filter )
3) Buy all oil/water fitting and lines for youre needs
4) Either use a turbo from a kit ( you can use a downpipe from the kit also but its 2,5 inch) or buy else where
5) but some piping for hot side if you still have AC in because kit pipes wont work ( didnt for me)
This is minimum what you need to get a reliable set up without spending much money
For ease go with oil cooled turbo
Dont buy red 440 Siemens deka injectors unless you have deadtimes for them if you do PLEASE SHARE ON WIKI you will help a lot of people
Walbro 455 works flawlessly
Fuel rail upgrade is up to you its not really needed so therefore you're fueling routing could be different
Problems you will have after putting a turbo on a 330ci Say goodbye to axles im on my 8th and im thinking something gotta be wrong with rear end besides a welded diff I got ))))
Cx racing kit is well designed but its obviously made by hand , and what i mean made by hand is that parts sometimes will not line up from a kit , I had intercooler piping not line up on hot side so i had to improvise to go around all the stuff thats there to keep A/C in stock location you would have to bend lines that come off compressor I gently used my 36mm wrench shuffed in a good spot to pry on and I did it. It worked perfect but not for long , on a hot summer day something exploads under my hood and I smelled the freon gas and I knew it was ac line that was next to the exhaust and I thought it had melted because it was 1/8 away from exhaust manifold , but that wasnt the case. Actually the clamp on the hot side that comes off the turbo to a 90 degree elbow that clamp tore the rubber line at least that was my verdict. So the conclusion of CX racing and keep A/C in same location is possible but not practical. Also my exhaust pipes wouldnt match , the downpipe is only 2.5 inch which is too small for my application ( you can easily make it 3 inch ) the downpipe off turbo to a center pipe never lined up , Center pipes turns under the car and my pipe had too wide of a bend and was at least 2 inches lower than lower point in the car which was bugging me a lot because it broke and was making a lot of noise and I caught few tickets for which I found myself in jail a year later. Anyways to conclude this I would only recommend buying intercooler kit and a manifold form CX racing kit they also got good turbo's which I use now it was 600 bucks for gtx3582r which got drained in oil because oil drain line kinked too much heat was coming off the manifold which made rubber loose its consistency and it collapsed on itself hence drenching turbo with oil to the point where I had a quart in the intercooler LOL , turbo has no shaft play and doesnt burn oil ))))
Now I took my ac out completely and im planning to run an electric unit in the "cancer" compartment of the engine bay , the reason why I took my a/c comp out is because i was getting tired of my oil drain line getting fcked up every so often, at the turbo there is that aluminum drain adapter that bolts up and the hose used to break( crack from heat ) and I would oil all over the place which caused fire , and then I just drilled a hole in the side of the block where compressor used to be I put a half inch brass fitting in there ( tapped it and all) Off the turbo I got that aluminum drain adapter that goes to 10an hose which I tapped on the inside and put a brass pipe around 10 inches long and connected it with a rubber hose Problem solved but no a/c now ? what the hell am i gonna do ?? So i looked up A/c compressor for hybrid cars and guess what toyota prius uses electric unit which has 3 wires and i assumed we got power ground and signal wire which isnt that had to make, but the question is if that comp is running on 12 volts ? also I just started loooking into it so I gotta find wiring diagram , Id have to buy ac comp with the lines that come off of it so i could weld them to the oem lines.
FUELING
For the fuel injectors you could use green giants since we got the deadtimes for the, for the inectors that were in my post which are Siemens Deka red 440cc I was unable to find deadtimes nor nobody would share them with me , like Injector website that have them would not share info because they say if i fck it up ill complani bla bla bla bunch of cry babies and BS they fed me on that one ( also guy was kinda offended me asking for dead times thats for my use and I told him that it would of only been my responsibility, but NO , oh well fck you and ur website) Got some 1000cc injectors off ebay for 300 bucks ( I dont trust them at all at this point ) So id say dont cheap out on injectors make sure u get the information right.
Fuel pump
I got walbro 455LH off amazon and they got for 50 bucks which buggs me out every time I look at that , so I hopped on it and bought 2 of them , so far I put 1 in and its not giving me problems at all
Fuel pressure regulator I went with AEM 6 an lines ( thats where i fcked up ) I should of went straight for 8 AN lines because my fuel rail can accept 8an lines ( now its 6 an) and I also want to run e85 and I want to make sure I have no problems with fuel. I used stock plastic fuel lines that go up to filter and after that its all 6 AN lines. F
FUEL PUMP sender that is untouched as of now , but I am planning to cut the neck for fuel off of it and replace with 2 6-an bulkheads for 2 fuel pumps ( 1 pump works with the car like normal off the key and the other pump will be boost controlled with a a bypass switch incase the other pump goes bad I have another one to drive on )
Fuel Filter I used a cheap 30 dollar fuel filter off ebay which is 100 micron and Its prefect so far , the only problem I had it came with all fitting and adapter 6,8,10 an adapter but the 6-an adapter the hole that was in it was so god damn small and I just found out recently about it drilled it to right 6 an hose diameter on a drill press and called it a day, filter is washable because of metal mesh , after a year of use and abuse I pulled it out and it was clean.
FUEL RAIL I bought rallies fuel rail which cost me good 300 bucks with mounts and all ( i have an m50 manifold ) and that thing has no problems either im happy with it
Now we gonna talk about heat management in the engine bay .
Before i put the turbo on I had a plastic valve cover which warped so i threw it out and bought 240 dollar aluminum valve cover and a 60 dollar gasket for it , took out CCV system and drill 4 bungs for catch can ( 3 used ) The aluminum valve cover has no problems with ,it fits perfect operates normal and doesnt warp or melt.
COIL PACK i had to cover up coil packs because downpipe almost goes right next to them and it had melted my harness somehow so I cut up a sheet of aluminum and placed it on top of valve cover almost like a ugly looking vanity cover
CATCH CAN SET UP
Im running 2 catch cans in the car one in the bumper well on driver side where fog light is at and the other one in the "cancer" spot 2 lines where each one goes to 1 catch can . Why would you ask I have 2 catch cans? well While i had one -10 line going to 1 catchcan which goes to atmosphere , I still had a lot of pressure in the crankcase dont know why and dont really care since I fixed it by placed another catch can with another -10 line. before catch cans my valve cover would blow oil form the gasket ( aluminum valve cover) and cover up my windshield with oil.
Oil supply You can buy a double banjo bolt and go from vanos oil supply I had that set up for quite a while and had no problems with it , now I bought an oil block for 100 bucks and I have oil pressure sensor screwed into it with the new supply line ( 6an supply goes to 4 an)
Oil drain
Best spot for oil drain for cx racing kit if you remove ac and drill a hole on the side of the block
Second goes probably timing cover but I had problems with it ( I used a screw on bung with a nut on the otherside and special rubber washers ) it leaked likea mofo.
Oil pan Honestly my opinion for oil pan bung I think its not the best to use but possible , the Hose routing would be funny )
Scavenger pumps Ive never tried these because I want my car reliable , See one car with that setup but it had a supercharger on it , the guy had to use 2 pumps Idk why nor do it care))))
AIR FITLER FOR TOP MOUNT
This is where it gets tricky
My turbo has an inlet of 4 inches I ordered a mushroom filter and its fcking huge and will not fit under the hood nor in front of the turbo because turbo sitting very close to radiator support which sucks so implanning on cutting radiator support and weld extra metal on it so it doesnt become too weak because I need to cut a goot inch or so out of it.
MAF maf is the biggest btch for me because I went with RS4 audi maf doesnt give me problems on regular driving . Stock maf in blow through will not work sensor will brake and there is no boulges on the pipe so it will keep blowing off . So to go RS4 maf is 220 for a brand new maf off ECS tuning then the housing was over 100bucks for 3inch housing pig tail a few bucks , so you looking at 300+ for a maf blow through application that is limited to 1800kg'hr i think and If you want gelashivilli to tune it , he wont do it he will ask for a mustang maf and that setup goes for 500 bucks
Another choice is to go MAP which I tried and I have my innovate boost controller MAP sensor work with dme and boost gauge with no problems ( should test it further)
Cooling BRUH I USE STOCK COOLING NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER \put a good water pump in with metal impeller that is " high performance kind of thing " and thats about it beside brass bleeding screw
Made my engine run 84 degree celsius in the tune On a dyno idling its at 186F doing a hard pull goes to 190( stock beat up radiator thats about 16 years old or more god knows also had a hole in it that was jb welded )
So when I hear someone that you need to upgrade ur cooling system I laugh because I overheated my engine 3 times ( heater hose was never tightned and had a small leak only when system would have pressure in it)So i wasnt able to find the leak when car is standing still and idling so dont hate))
So power wise I made 370 hp at 5200rpm on 10psi and I could put a lot more timing in and if i could rev my car past 5200rpm on pull im sure it would make a ton more because my power kicks in at 4500rpm also fuel was at 10afr on a hub dyno. This is where I am now stuck because engine would not rev past 5200 rpm and I cant find a problem , also when I log through rom raider Its says im only running 10 degrees of timing and its supposed to be like 19????? So idk wtf is going on stock ecu been kicking my ass for the past month and nobody seems to know the solution to my problem. I got my fueling on point now ( during a pull it stays 11.3 and during normal driving 13-14.6 and I finally get good gas mileage. If you need more information regarding something that I missed lmk
Conclusion for CX RACING kit
Best and cheapest way you buy
1) Intercooler kit
2) Exhuast manifold or make it youreself ( I will eventually make my own because I want to set my turbo further away from radiator support so i can fit an air filter )
3) Buy all oil/water fitting and lines for youre needs
4) Either use a turbo from a kit ( you can use a downpipe from the kit also but its 2,5 inch) or buy else where
5) but some piping for hot side if you still have AC in because kit pipes wont work ( didnt for me)
This is minimum what you need to get a reliable set up without spending much money
For ease go with oil cooled turbo
Dont buy red 440 Siemens deka injectors unless you have deadtimes for them if you do PLEASE SHARE ON WIKI you will help a lot of people
Walbro 455 works flawlessly
Fuel rail upgrade is up to you its not really needed so therefore you're fueling routing could be different
Problems you will have after putting a turbo on a 330ci Say goodbye to axles im on my 8th and im thinking something gotta be wrong with rear end besides a welded diff I got ))))
Cwarel thanks for the long reply. Your posts are always great. I was considering a tip mount turbo and specifically the CX racing kit since they're the only top mount I found but I feel like the engine bay is too crammed and you have to delete a lot of things. Do you think a bottom mount would be better? I found a kit from rev9 for $700 but I think I have to buy the custom made turbo motor mount from rallyroad. If you have any comments please share
You do need a custom mount and you would still have to machine it ( as I had to do it because 63ar turbo would barely fit I still have it and its for sale . You go bottom mount if you only aiming for 370 hp thats all its good for and you will wind up with a too small of a turbo but midrange power and torque will be insane I had it for a year and it was fun but complicated to work on , with a top mount its a lot easier because everything is accessible .
And For bottom mount I wouldnt buy a kit I would make it myself using universal intercooler kit . In reality its a choice only in the exhuast manifold either top or bottom if you go bottom make sure you get cast iron manifold with a wastegate port on it ( I still have that manifold laying around because I never used it , the one i used was stainless tubes and they cracked EVERYWHERE because weight of the turbo was supported by the manifold which made it crack in places where you cant weld it on the car so u have to take it off and thats a pain. With CX racing mount I DONT EVEN KNOW HOW ITS STILL ALIVE AND NOT LEAKING OR CRACKED because I abused the sht out of it I had oil from valve cover leaking constantly on it , then I had a shot of freon at it and water and bad tuning where car would run really rich or lean and its still going strong.
Also cast iron manifolds are not perfect the one I got needs to be machined on the side of the flanged because its too thick and would bolt up to the head and its a very easy fix just grind it off a bit and done I guess it was made like that to have extra beef in it so the customer would have to machine it a bit for their liking I guess ( think positive)
Also oil drain is a problem with bottom mount turbo
Also running hotside piping will be hard but possible if you have welding traits ))) OR go like me and buy a diesel trucks coolant hose and slap it on
And For bottom mount I wouldnt buy a kit I would make it myself using universal intercooler kit . In reality its a choice only in the exhuast manifold either top or bottom if you go bottom make sure you get cast iron manifold with a wastegate port on it ( I still have that manifold laying around because I never used it , the one i used was stainless tubes and they cracked EVERYWHERE because weight of the turbo was supported by the manifold which made it crack in places where you cant weld it on the car so u have to take it off and thats a pain. With CX racing mount I DONT EVEN KNOW HOW ITS STILL ALIVE AND NOT LEAKING OR CRACKED because I abused the sht out of it I had oil from valve cover leaking constantly on it , then I had a shot of freon at it and water and bad tuning where car would run really rich or lean and its still going strong.
Also cast iron manifolds are not perfect the one I got needs to be machined on the side of the flanged because its too thick and would bolt up to the head and its a very easy fix just grind it off a bit and done I guess it was made like that to have extra beef in it so the customer would have to machine it a bit for their liking I guess ( think positive)
Also oil drain is a problem with bottom mount turbo
Also running hotside piping will be hard but possible if you have welding traits ))) OR go like me and buy a diesel trucks coolant hose and slap it on
The pricing is off I got my mount for 140 off their website
That turbo manifold combo you can get a lot cheaper if you buy it piece by piece
Manifold 65
Trubo 140-300 depends what you want
wastegate 40 bucks ( cheap but works)
blow off 30 bucks ( cheap but works)
Gaskets etc are cheap
Intercooler kits ive seen for 140-180 but maybe intercooler is slightly smaller
But its still good looking kit if you dont want headache looking for pieces
Also I would literary lay out all the parts and make sure you have everything before you start the install other wise you might get delayed because of missing parts ask me how I know. Also you will need to do something with intake boot at the throttle body you gotta delete IAC so you can put a 90 degree 3inch silicone elbow in there and the maf housing is 3.5 while intercooler piping is 3 or what not that are just little things you gotta decide what you do with them
That turbo manifold combo you can get a lot cheaper if you buy it piece by piece
Manifold 65
Trubo 140-300 depends what you want
wastegate 40 bucks ( cheap but works)
blow off 30 bucks ( cheap but works)
Gaskets etc are cheap
Intercooler kits ive seen for 140-180 but maybe intercooler is slightly smaller
But its still good looking kit if you dont want headache looking for pieces
Also I would literary lay out all the parts and make sure you have everything before you start the install other wise you might get delayed because of missing parts ask me how I know. Also you will need to do something with intake boot at the throttle body you gotta delete IAC so you can put a 90 degree 3inch silicone elbow in there and the maf housing is 3.5 while intercooler piping is 3 or what not that are just little things you gotta decide what you do with them
https://www.ebay.com/itm/T04E-T3-18...005&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=160606913344&itm=400642203116&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
You could get this and you get a lot more parts with this kit , but I really dont know the quality off all that stuff but it looks like a reasonable deal
You could get this and you get a lot more parts with this kit , but I really dont know the quality off all that stuff but it looks like a reasonable deal
I'm not a fan of the bottom mounts, unless it's a well developed kit. I forget the company that sells the bottom mount kit that's like 7k
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cwarel and Armen, thanks for posting good info. Another option to consider is going with DIYPSI manifold. I'm currently talking to Blunttech about it and they're saying it's designed to clear ac lines and compressor. Good quality manifold, I'm running one in my project e30. http://www.diypsi.net/product/e46-top-mount-t3-turbo-manifold/
I feel like the design of the top mount manifold wouldn't be as important as the bends of the hot side piping, right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not really a good flow in the manifold can lower you're boost lag, I just made a 3 inch downpipe last night using only 1 45 degree mandrell bend and like a foot or so of straight piece , also neede another 2 inches to make a slight bend , welded with harbor freight sshtty welder , welds look ugly AF but its sealed now I have to grind off the slag and weld a bung for AFR in it and paint it so it looks nice , I gained a lot lower end torque according to my butt dyno and my lag time switched from turbo being spooled at 4500 to 3800 rpm. 3 inch downpipe fits perfect with a cx racing top manifold without denting frame rails or anything else , and I have cleareance around everything about 1/4 inch so in my car me making that pipe HIGH af last night worked out great))))) ( in the street in the dark lmao )
Interesting. I was intending on head gasket and studs with goals of 8-10 psi
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you can do 12 psi safely on completely stock block , I heard that OEM bolts are capable of holding 35psi somewheres but I only went up to 16 psi on completely stock block with a small turbo only 63AR, back when I had a bottom mount. My turbo broke in half , bad chinesium patch I guess 140$ turbo didnt last 600 miles
I got a quantum 340 pump for starters. Still unsure of injectors. From what I read I only saw what not to run. My target is 400 hp. At tuning if I hit 401 I'm done
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
