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Wax dried in the sun ... how to remove?

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88K views 38 replies 30 participants last post by  legoman67  
#1 · (Edited)
I know, this was one of the dumbest things I've done in a long long time ...

But I applied the wax while inside the garage, then backed out in order to clean the interior while waiting for the wax to dry.

Problem was, my hood and some of the roof was in direct sunlight for that time...

I then spent hours trying to remove the wax (just from the hood), and I could only "buff" off a very small bit of it by rubbing as hard as I possibly could with a plush MF towel on the paint.

Good news is, it doesn't (yet) to appear to have scratched or marred much if at all... but there is still some leftover dried / baked wax even after washing the car again about 2 weeks later.

When I was "buffing" the wax off, I tried so many different things to remove it to no avail...

-Stoner Tarminator
-Isopropyl alcohol/distilled h2o mixture
-PB S&W
-Clay + PB S&W for lube


Any experts have a recommendation for removing the small patches of leftover wax??? I'm out of ideas, and am approaching the conclusion that it will need to be polished out with a AiO or something like that which would require removing the FMJ & Natty's wax... :ben:

I have searched far and wide for an answer here and I'm guessing it's either so obvious that nobody would ask ... or nobody has ever done something this stupid before...

Pls help
 
#15 ·
Clarification: I used a razor on my mouldings which got some wax all dried up on them, thus fading them white. DONT use a bloody razor on your paint.

A rotary buffer is ideal and should be purchased if you plan on waxing your car often i believe.

A friend suggested boiling some water in a kettle and using the steam/hot water in the effected area to melt the stuck on wax.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Wow, wax residue on the finish after IPA and claying. Any chance you can post a picture of the affected area(s)? We all make mistakes so go easy on yourself, it's part of the learning process. I bet you'll never make the same mistake again :thumbsup:.

NOTE: Don't even think of using a razor blade (I assume you already know this based on your post), we'll find a better solution, but we need some pix.
 
#13 ·
I agree here. If you have already tried a cleaner wax after washing again and tried a claybar, get a higher speed rotary buffer and use a foam pad on it. This way you can run higher speeds without the pad clogging as fast so you don't run a closer risk of burning the paint. I can't beleive a clay bar wouldn't take that stuff off?!?!?
 
#14 ·
I can't even explain how pissed off I was when this happened... Everything else went perfectly and my last step I'm like WTF ITS NOT COMING OFF??????

I could probably take some pics but if you could imagine applying a hard wax using the W // Z method, then letting it dry to a haze, you'd have a car full of streaks... Then buff most of it away but some spots still have the streaky wax literally baked on and it will not buff off.


I did try diluting some Chemical Guys Citrus Wash which I used before doing the big polishing process over Easter... but that didn't do sh1t either... perhaps it was diluted too much?

Also tried putting a LC blue pad on my PC, spraying a mist of PB S&W on it and running it at 6 for a few seconds. Nothing happened at all.

The only thing that worked was buffing/rubbing the crap out of it with the MF and it would slowwwwwwwly come off.

I obviously don't want to specifically go and buy a rotary buffer just to remove this crap, although I'm sure that would work.

I'll have to try just going with Dawn soap and tap water, "washing" the spots with a MF towel and hopefully the Dawn will pull the stuff up.

I can't believe how persistent this Natty's is once it's been baked in the sun...

Wonder if this means it's actually a good idea to apply and buff off the wax while in shade / garage, then pull it outside in the sun to help it set up???


Thanks all for your input. I'll definitely update once I finally find something that works.
 
#22 ·
It's not as bad as people make it out to be. But I do agree that you should spend a lot of time with something that is not as powerful (Porter Cable) and gradually
move on to a rotary. An orbital will have a hard time removing defects.
 
#24 ·
DO NOT use brake fluid or a razor blade. You also shouldn't need a rotary polisher. What works for me if this happens is applying more of the same wax. Do it in the shade, and make sure the car is cool to the touch. Then apply new wax, and buff it off after a few seconds. The solvents in the fresh wax should make the old wax soft again and thus easier to remove.
 
#25 ·
Thank you!

I thought of this and it totally made sense that it would loosen up the old wax, but obviously wasn't sure.

I will make it a point to wax again ASAP and report back fo sho :thumbsup:
 
#27 ·
removing hardened wax

you might try Klasse All-In-One cleaner/sealant. Although I have not been in your situation I have found AIO a very powerful cleaner for paint.
 
#33 ·
how to remove over dried wax from car

I used a little lighter fluid, rubbed it in and let it dry then wiped it up with a magic eraser sponge which i purchased in the household cleaning section of walmart. Worked like a charm with minimal effort and left the car with a nice glossy shine....i was so grateful too because even an electric buffer wasn't touching it and i felt totally screwed...this sponge was also excellent for smoothing out light scratches which i applied a thin coat of wax over afterwards to make sure it was protected as the sponges are (even if they don't feel like it) lightly abrasive..
 
#34 ·
I used a little lighter fluid, rubbed it in and let it dry then wiped it up with a magic eraser sponge which i purchased in the household cleaning section of walmart. Worked like a charm with minimal effort and left the car with a nice glossy shine...
This is surprising. A Mr. Clean magic eraser is the LAST thing I would let near my paint.