Torx is designed to be extremely resistant to camming out, which makes assembly a lot more ergonomic because you don't have to lean onto the tool to prevent it from camming out and stripping out the head. Phillips only really wins out on having much more common bits, IMO Torx is otherwise strictly superior, especially when smaller screws are concerned.

 

I've also stripped a few small torx screws while working on the convertible top.

To remove the stripped screws, I purchased screw removal / extractor gripping pliers.

I highly recommend this tool for such scenarios.

 

The problem is not the fasteners.... it is the engineering life of zinc plated steel threads in aluminium. After 15 years they oxidise and extreme pressure is required to break the chemically induced force.

If they were philips, the heads would also strip. Often a sharp tap with a hammer on a carefully held mini t-bar is best. Oftentimes, they are stripped because some boof has already been at them with an Allen key/bit, or a smaller Torx than they needed common in 30s where someone tried to use a 27.

The mix of fasteners at BMW is a cultural issue, just to access the amp in my trunk the other day took two trim removers, 8, 10, 13 sockets, and more. All mixed up, of course, so you have to keep changing tool as you go

 

Sounds like someone previously used the wrong tool on the torx.
I hear you on the smaller screws. KISBMW.
Not only is what Wombat stated true, torx are also able to take higher pressures without stripping. 6 blades instead of 4 like a phillips.

 

I like torx screws. They are more resistant to being stripped out. As long as your using the right bit like you are supposed to.

Many times I've come across knarled up fasteners is because Billy Bob McCletus didn't have the correct tool and proceeded to ream it out with whatever they had.

 

I bought a cheap $25 Torx kit on Amazon and it's pretty much got everything, but yeah I feel you it's annoying to deal with stripped out screws and switching tools all the time. Whenever I see one that's stripping I'll usually replace it with a new one. FCPEuro has a decent catalogue of all the fasteners BMW uses

 

I think I've never stripped a Torx screw. I love them. Also normal hex bolts are awesome, only very old rusty ons sometimes slip. For me the most frustrating ones are Allen bolts, if you are not careful enough you easily slip through.

 

I too like torx- right up until they fail. Which is seldom, if you're careful.

I hated the inhex (Allen) bolts on the rear axles of the earlier cars far more-
they'd strip out far easier than the modern torx do.

I also spend a bit more for tools I trust- and that seems to pay back in
time saved. German tools seem to fit the German fasteners just fine.

t

 

My favorite tool in the shop!

TITAN - 12715 - 13 PC TORX NON SLIP KEY SET GREEN - Other Products - Amazon.com

TITAN - 12715 - 13 PC TORX NON SLIP KEY SET GREEN - Other Products - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

These do not fail.
The person using the torx keys do the damage.
Please clean out the bolt head first as it was meant to be used this way and not full of crap and I mean CLEAN IT.
Make sure the fit is very good ,if not dont use the socket and please dont hammer things on, and always .always use a copper grease when reinstalling bolt/nut, very very good practice.
I am a tool maker and most of the milling cutter inserts are tightened by torx screws and these bad boys kick the hell out of steel all day long but reply on the simple little screws.
Look after them.

Mart.

 

Let’s not forget that you can suspend a torx screw horizontally on the tip of a torx drive while you insert it. Try that with Philips!

 

2 words - magnetic tip

 

50 years ago the director for maintenance at usarmy tank automotive command, Marion (he hated using his first name) Michael (used Michael) Cieslak told me if it was the last thing he did he would eliminate/unstandardize phillips screw heads on Army equipment. I don't think he ever did, especially with CUCV and various newer/later vehicles from the commercial auto industry, but I was on board from the beginning! I once had a 69 Triumph Trophy motorcycle with those damned BIG phillips head machine screws that held the primary cover and lots of other stuff together. The ONLY thing that could break them loose without stripping was a hammer-driven impact wrench. Torx are great fasteners!

 

Are you sure it wasn't a security bit like these?

Security Bit Set, 33 Piece

The radio/tape deck in my E36 was fastened with these. And I will guarantee you weren't going to turn them without the right bit.

 

The problem with Torx fasteners is that you need a quality tool, not a soft or slightly off-size one. So as others have pointed out, only buy good ones ;-). It simply pays not to ever be relying on an inappropriate tool.

But I'd go further, you need Torx sockets, Torx (Allen style/bent wrenches) and t-bar handled Torx drivers. Access is always a problem given where BMW use them, so adding them requires all these else you can't get on them with enough force, or directly enough, to avoid disaster- mostly because of the galvanic corrosion issues faced taking apart components that have been on there for >20 years!

 

The problem with Torx fasteners is that you need a quality tool, not a soft or slightly off-size one. So as others have pointed out, only buy good ones ;-). It simply pays not to ever be relying on an inappropriate tool.

Necroing this for fun. The right tool isn't always TORX. Between the E46 and E39 I've seen: TORX, RIBE, TORX Plus, and Tamper Resistant TORX Plus. The problem is that they're all designed to take more torque than regular TORX and except for the last they're all more or less backwards compatible so BMW often uses them in high torque applications. That's how you get stripped CCV bolts on the V8 and belt tensioners on the six.

Flame on.

 

These do not fail.

I have had the super- shallow very hard fender screws disagree with you, there.

They can rust from behind so that the head's bonded to the fender, and then
the very shallow in-torx teeth can't take the twist.
In the shop, it's not too hard to get them off, but in a junkyard, with limited
tools, they can absolutely ruin your cheap-fix right-color fender.
Hitting the head tangentially with a chisel can break them loose, but don't slip!

t
still agrees- quality tooling, quality fastener- no problems.