Car: 2004 330xi, 201k miles. I'm the only owner.
2015: Complete cooling system overhaul - hoses, expansion tank, water pump, and thermostat. Thermostat had a very slow leak at the center heater - a common and well know issue. I replaced it with the identical part, from Borg Warner/Wahler.
2017: Saw the leak again. Thanks to FCP's lifetime warranty, I essentially replaced the thermostat for free, but this time I installed the Mahle Behr thermostat, which has a different design. There's a few threads on here that discuss exactly this issue, and recommend the Mahle Behr thermostat as a fix.
Today: Car is throwing a 7B "Signal, characteristic map cooling, short circuit to positive" code.
I checked the thermostat with an ohmmeter, and the heater element is shorted - less than 1 ohm. I still have the old Wahler thermostat, and its heater is 16 ohms. So, heater element burned up and shorted.
Three questions:
1. Which thermostat should have better reliability? I've had both fail, although with completely different failures.
2. How critical is this? It's not enough to illuminate the idiot light on the dash, and the car runs fine. It's my understanding that the heater gives the DME more control over when the thermostat opens.
3. It's too soon to perform a complete drain & fill of coolant - do I even need to drain any at all if just replacing the thermostat, and if so, how much?
2015: Complete cooling system overhaul - hoses, expansion tank, water pump, and thermostat. Thermostat had a very slow leak at the center heater - a common and well know issue. I replaced it with the identical part, from Borg Warner/Wahler.
2017: Saw the leak again. Thanks to FCP's lifetime warranty, I essentially replaced the thermostat for free, but this time I installed the Mahle Behr thermostat, which has a different design. There's a few threads on here that discuss exactly this issue, and recommend the Mahle Behr thermostat as a fix.
Today: Car is throwing a 7B "Signal, characteristic map cooling, short circuit to positive" code.
I checked the thermostat with an ohmmeter, and the heater element is shorted - less than 1 ohm. I still have the old Wahler thermostat, and its heater is 16 ohms. So, heater element burned up and shorted.
Three questions:
1. Which thermostat should have better reliability? I've had both fail, although with completely different failures.
2. How critical is this? It's not enough to illuminate the idiot light on the dash, and the car runs fine. It's my understanding that the heater gives the DME more control over when the thermostat opens.
3. It's too soon to perform a complete drain & fill of coolant - do I even need to drain any at all if just replacing the thermostat, and if so, how much?