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Thermostat replacement - #4 - which to get?

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16K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  infoboy  
#1 · (Edited)
Car: 2004 330xi, 201k miles. I'm the only owner.

2015: Complete cooling system overhaul - hoses, expansion tank, water pump, and thermostat. Thermostat had a very slow leak at the center heater - a common and well know issue. I replaced it with the identical part, from Borg Warner/Wahler.

2017: Saw the leak again. Thanks to FCP's lifetime warranty, I essentially replaced the thermostat for free, but this time I installed the Mahle Behr thermostat, which has a different design. There's a few threads on here that discuss exactly this issue, and recommend the Mahle Behr thermostat as a fix.

Today: Car is throwing a 7B "Signal, characteristic map cooling, short circuit to positive" code.

I checked the thermostat with an ohmmeter, and the heater element is shorted - less than 1 ohm. I still have the old Wahler thermostat, and its heater is 16 ohms. So, heater element burned up and shorted.

Three questions:

1. Which thermostat should have better reliability? I've had both fail, although with completely different failures.

2. How critical is this? It's not enough to illuminate the idiot light on the dash, and the car runs fine. It's my understanding that the heater gives the DME more control over when the thermostat opens.

3. It's too soon to perform a complete drain & fill of coolant - do I even need to drain any at all if just replacing the thermostat, and if so, how much?
 
#2 ·
I just replaced my old Wahler with another and drained about a gallon out of the radiator, otherwise coolant leaks all over the belts. This will be the third Wahler I've put in, the first one threw the P0128 code and the second leaked where yours did. 2 failures since 2012, IDK how old the first one I replaced was, but in late 2015 I replaced the original expansion tank from 10/2002.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Get a thermostat that's keeping your engine temp in the lower 90C.

Behr, Wahler, both can run on the hot side (upper 90s and into the lower 100s), which isn't going to help increase the longevity of the plastic cooling system components, and probably isn't good for the head and the head gasket in a long run.

I replaced three thermostats in 2017 (OE from a dealer, or OEM units from good vendors) until I got one that kept the temp between 91 and 95C.
 
#8 ·
Sounds like there's a few fans of the Behr, so maybe I just got unlucky-ish with this one. Thanks for the replies.

I'm having trouble digging up anything that goes into detail about what could be "bad" about the thermostat heater not working? Is the car more likely to overheat - perhaps only under very 'spirited' driving? If so, then maybe I don't need to worry. I don't track the car, but I do take it on long [500mi one-way] roadtrips which are mostly crusing at 70-80. I took it on a 1200mi trip a couple weeks ago - no problems. (I may have just jinxed myself as I'm about to do the same trip again)
 
#10 · (Edited)
The thermostat heater element is used quite frequently even in everyday driving.
This way the engine management commands the thermostat to open and lowers the engine temp whenever you step on the gas pedal a little less gently, or when you rev the engine above certain RPM limit, when driving above certain speed, etc.

I don't think it is a good idea to keep this thermostat. At the very least you should change the buffer range of the instrument cluster temp gauge if you haven't done that already. The factory interval is just too wide, so if you only rely on the needle to monitor engine temp, you wouldn't know it's running hot before it exceeds 115C.
 
#14 · (Edited)
G'day,

See if you can find bmw - north's posts on cooling system stuff, very informative.
One recently was a kind of quiz which give a good insight also.

I recently did a ton of reading re t-stats similarly to you. Had one not open, i wasnt driving at the time, luckly engine was stopped in time and towed. The heater was also toast on this & threw same code as you.

I went with the Behr, few reasons - the Borg ones all tended to leak from the same place & aussie online bmw crowd Clickable Automotive have Behr at only $75 which is a good price for us here.

Checked Behr in boiling water before a installed, plus heater element with 12v, all good.
Car runs about 94-95C.
Chucked a Saleri WP in too while i was at it.

I think my 325i has a Behr in it too, been fine for 5 years, runs same temp as i monitor alot via OBD to catch a soft failing t - stat.

I did read that its an or ring or something that leaks on the Borg t-stats, & maybe down to it pinching,spinning etc during bad assembly manufacturing practices which may have crept in on a particular batch maybe. I often read the posts & wondered if it was as simple as replacing an o-ring, maybe using viton instead of NBR etc.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I replaced my thermostat once in February 2010, so nine years and 120k miles ago but it is still working great. I just looked up my receipt and I paid $68 for a "Genuine BMW" branded thermostat from BavAuto.com. Looks like FCP still sells the BMW branded one but they are asking $102 these days.
 
#19 · (Edited)
You will prob wet yourself skydaver when u find out I rigged up a thermocouple & connected it to my hand held digital temp meter :)

The type we use in foundries to dip in liquid metal, I use it for checking the pool temp & my home brew these days mostly :)

- - - -

Jokes a side, I had to be sure it was working, inc heater element 100% , because after its install n system bleed, my then subsequent analysis of whether head gasket was comprised by overheat