Doesn't sound like a good idea to me.


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I did that when I replaced my engine mounts. I had two 2x4s stacked on top of each other though, if that makes a difference.

 

It is not the best way to do it, but I have seen it mentioned many times.
You may want to invest in an engine jack from Harbor Freight. They are amazingly cheap.
Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
This months Car and Driver has a 25% off coupon (they are usually 20%), and they let you apply that to sale prices. So, you could get one of these for $45. Even if you don't have a local store, they will ship it for $6.99. If the 2.5 ton aluminum jack I bought last month qualified for the $6.99 shipping, then I am sure this thing will.
It is cheap insurance compared to an oil pan or an oil pan gasket leak that may develop after lifting the engine by the oil pan.

 

Crap, well I hope nothing bad comes out of this. If anything I will just replace my oil pan and gasket. Wish me luck, it's too late to continue this job. This is day three on this job. I finally got the passenger-side engine mount out, and now I am trying to figure out how to get the rusted stud out of the way, it is just a little too long to pull out. I don't know what else I can do.


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Well I've guys jacks all over the car giving good support too


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Well I've guys jacks all over the car giving good support too

you have guys jacking all over your car? <img src='http://forum.E46Fanatics.com/images/smilies/greddy.gif'>

 

I would just be careful about letting the oil pan slip around on top of the 2x4. You don't want it to slip a little, and break the seal with the engine block.
Like I said, I have read about many people doing this without a problem. It is just not ideal.
Did you get the nut off of the stud? Are you just having trouble maneuvering the header in to place? Did you loosen the nut on the drivers side mount?that may allow you to lift the engine a bit more. Watch your power steering lines, if you do that. It may be better to just remove the mounting bolts for the PS pump, and lift it up, and tie it up, so it is up higher than the mounting plate.
I am just throwing things out there, since I have no idea how much you have already done.
Good luck with all of this!

 

Yes it should be fine. Have your hood open and be careful not to lift the engine too much. It's still connected to the trans, cooling system, and wiring harness. Don't want to stretch any of that.
I've lifted the engine this way on my m42 and it worked just fine.
Good luck with your headers. I hate working with exhausts and normally just pay someone to do it.

 

I did it when I did my engine mounts, but looking back on it, it was not a safe way of doing it. I would buy the harbor freight lifting bar in a second if I had to do it again.

 

Wood is fine. But I'd use a 2x10 or 2x12 instead to further spread out the load. I have the Harbor Freight lifting bar, but I'm using wood on my MINI right now since there's no fenders to use the bar on.

 

If the job involves removing the front subframe, then you couldn't pay me to do this without something like the engine support posted above. However, for things like engine mounts, where the subframe is still in place and canl hold the engine if the wood slips, its not a huge deal. In that case, you risk damaging the car much more than damaging your face. That said, be careful where you put the wood so as to not break the oil pan.

Luke

 

****Remove the screws that hold the radiator to the chassis before lifting the motor like this****