Did you have your car aligned (I recommend laser alignment) after replacing the FCAB's? If not, I would recommend it. My car was locking fully left and right, but normal going straight.

 

It is most likely steering column flex joint which is $46.00. Had my column "sticking" and clicking, took everything apart just like you did, then changed the flex joint and everything went back to normal.

 

Does anyone have a part number for this thing?

I can't find it on getbmwparts.com and real oem is showing the Double joint with universal joint part # 32306754165 as the item. But it lists at $161?

DJ where did you order from?


**EDIT**

Nevermind, I've found out the xi coupler is a lot more expensive than the rear-drive version. Booooo

Thanks for the help though.

 

Thanks, is that the rubber block/ U-joint thing thats closest to the steering rack?

 

Yep, that's the one.

 

do you notice it more when the car is warmed up, or even if its warmer then 60 degrees outside.
If so---it could actually be the steering rack....several techs I've talked to about my issue which is confirmed temp based said that they are 95% sure its the rack--and had seen it in other cases as well.

Found a low miles rack on ebay for 125.00...better then paying the 1100.00 for a new one.

 

Ugh. I thought steering racks symptoms showed up after it warmed up.

My car usually feels fine first thing in the morning but gets worse as the day progresses....

 

My wheel only Sticks all the Way to the Left. I tried everything also. I have No friggin Idea:banghead:

 

yeah---temp based in my case.....no issues all winter.....then it gets warmer out---as car starts to run at temp the symptoms occur

 

**UPDATE FOR FUTURE SEARCHERS**

For anyone searching this issue in the future, I replaced my old coupler saturday and the bearings in the U-joint were all mostly seized. This is the part number for the xi # 32306754165 $130 from Tischer BMW.

The new coupler moved freely, very smooth. The old one needed a little force to move the U-joints around and creaked a lot. I am so happy I decided to try replacing this part before the steering rack. After uselessly replacing the pump I didn't want to sink anymore money into possible solutions, since everyone was telling me its probably the rack itself.

 

How long did it take you? any tips or DIY. Planning to do mine on 325xi.

Thanks

 

is there a diy for the coupler?

 

Hey Zemog did that tottaly solve your problem? my steering problem seems similar...stick and clicks every now and then

 

I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on this part, but I have the opposite symptoms on my xi- looseness or play in the wheel, not stickiness.

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AV53&mospid=47725&btnr=32_0942&hg=32&fg=30

 

For people who have asked.

Replacing this coupler completely fixed my issues. Its been 4 months now and none of the symptoms have returned.

Its pretty easy to DIY. It took me about an hour and a half all together.


Start by jacking up the front of the car and take the drivers-side wheel off. Make sure your steering wheels is perfectly straight or it will be tough when your aligning the steering shaft later.

You can see the coupler through the wheel well. Its the block of metal between the steering rack and steering column.
The coupler is connected with two torx bolts top and bottom. Use a 8mm socket to take them off. I recommend starting with the bottom (closest to the rack) first so you can push the telescoping steering shaft up and out of the way easier. Take out the upper torx bolt and manuever the old coupler out.

The rubber on mine looked fine but the U joints were very stiff.

The hardest part of this replacement is putting the new coupler on. Attach the steering column side first and push the telescoping column shaft up towards the firewall. Its hard to push and hold the column in place while also trying to line up the splines on the coupler with the spines on the steering rack.
There is a fin on the rack shaft that lines up with the slot in the coupler.

Make sure the new coupler is compleley seated. There should only be a tiny gap between the coupler and rack.

When you order your new coupler, also order two new torx bolts, they have loctite on them.

If you have saftey glasses, use them when your working on that upper torx bolt. I had so much crap fall in my eyes.

 

How many miles on e46?

 

Sounds like you made a good repair. Would be great to have a torque spec for those bolts though. Anyone have one? There is currently a TSB out for Ford Escapes (I've done 2 of them, I believe 09-on) to replace the steering shaft and the coupler (like a U-joint) to get rid of clicking noises. Find it odd that we have the same issue but all vehicles are more or less the same. In the Fords it is critical that the bolts are torqued to spec... Ask me how I know... :banghead:

 

About 94k in April when I had the issue.

Good luck getting a normal sized torque wrench in there. I did my final tightening with a 8mm wrench.
The bolts do have a coating of loctite on them....

I think I'm going to take a look at those bolts this weekend!

 

Do you think there is anyway to lube up the joint? You said that your "guibo" rubber was still in decent enough shape and that it was just the u-joint that was tight. Wonder if some lube would have helped?

If it can be greased or lubed up somehow might be a good idea for us to put it on the PM list.

 

After reading my nightmare story here:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=961701

I've come to the conclusion after replacing my power steering pump, reservoir, rack & pinion & flushing all the lines etc - that part #1 (linked below), may very well be the culprit to my steering wheel/linkage issue

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BS33&mospid=47706&btnr=32_0942&hg=32&fg=30

I should have replaced the entire lower joint assembly (u-joint & telescoping shaft & maybe even the "guibo" (#2 in the above link)

After you read my nightmare, you'll see that I finally came back home and sprayed PB Blaster as far up the steering assembly as I could (hoping to coat the U-Joint) and free it up a bit.

Once I did this, I cranked the rack from left to right many many times to spread the penetrating lubricant.

My steering was extremely tight and the steering wheel failed to come back to center after making left or right turns. So, being at wits end (like most of us get), I sprayed the crap out of that joint and it appears to be helping.

Tomorrow I will test drive the vehicle again. If the problem appears temporarily relieved by the lubrication of the shaft U-joint, but the issue returns in short order, then I will purchase the part and install. It's called a "Lower Joint Assembly" and includes the Ujoint and telescopic shaft. And even though I dont have any issues with steering wheel play, for an additional $49 I'll probably buy the steering "guibo", which is really called a "Flexible coupling for steering". Again, I wish I had both these parts when I was installing my new remanufactured rack yesterday. I think to properly install #1 and #5 , it's easiest done with the rack & pinion removed so there's more room to maneuver your hands way up into the steering shaft closest to the firewall to get to the torx bolt.

Just sharing one man's experience here...

 

Do yourself a favor and start w/ the Guibo.
It solved my issue which sounds very similar. Not a tough repair w/ the wheel off...toughest part is lining up the splines.
Just be careful about turning the lower joint assembly once the guibo is off (it will turn very easily).
Guibo needs installed at the same position as when the old one came off.
You'll probably end up w a DSC Light when you test drive...that should clear itself on the test-drive.

Thinking about it...try locking your steering. Not sure if that will accomplish the goal of keeping it in place or not, but worth a shot.

Post results if you would....

 

Thanks steveintheburgh !!

So far after replacing the Power Steering pump and Rack & Pinion Install, then having the front end aligned - - my issue only partially resolved itself.

Not until I came home and decided to spray the telescoping steering linkage,the attached U-joint, as well as the intermediate coupler ("guibo") with PB BLASTER lubricant and turning the steering wheel from left lock to right lock about 20 - 30x, did my issue appear to begin to rectify itself. My steering column is the one photo'd on the right side of the diagram in this link:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BS33&mospid=47706&btnr=32_0942&hg=32&fg=30

Now, I had already bled the rack & pinion so many times that I cant count (days worth, each time i started it ; each time i pulled over; many times before going to sleep at night etc) - so im confident the issue wasnt trapped air in the system.

I feel that the issue was the U-joint on the steering shaft itself. Not sure if these U-joints can or should be "greased" or lubricated, but clearly mine must have been too tight, and the PB BLASTER lubricant soaking free'd it up a little. Now my steering is better and the steering wheel actually comes back to center a bit more easy and I no longer need to "Strong Arm" pull it back like i had to before.

The steering "guibo" I took a long and hard look at when i was installing the new rack & pinion. It seems as if its two pieces of steel sandwiched by a rubber bushing. My "guibo" appeared to be in good shape. No cracks, tears, or issues - so I wasnt sure what reason I'd have to replace it. I was under the impression that the steering guibo issue concerned "loose steering" issues. ie: turning the steering wheel a couple of inches BEFORE the actual tires begin to respond. Being that wasnt my issue, I discounted the "guibo" as being the culprit for my "hard steering" issue.

A good soaking of the entire steering column with PB Blaster seems to be working. In the event that my issue once again begins to worsen, then I'm DEFINITELY going to order the telescoping shaft with U-joint, as well as the "guibo" coupler. Hell, there isnt anything else left to replace right !!???

Thank you for your suggestions, and feel free to respond. I have other issues wrong with my 325ic (the convertible top appears to have broken on me when i was in "mid lift" a few months ago). I pulled off the rear seats and did the "quick fix" on the gear that locks the top into the windshield area (which wasnt the issue, but i fixed it anyway). I checked the convertible top motor in the trunk, and it tested fine as well. Im praying that one of my lifting cables just snapped off, but i need an assistant to hold the button in while i attempt to diagnose the problem.

Have an enjoyable Holiday !

 

The liltteist play in that coupler makes a difference. I changed mines out when i did the two front axles. Really easy to get to when driver side axle removed.