Bleed screws do break, just like everything else plastic...

1. Flat blade screwdriver
2. Heat the tip via gas stove, propane torch, or blow-dryer. Get it real hot.
3. Insert blade tip into the center of the bleed screw still stuck in the reservoir. What you want to do here is make a new "slot" in the top of the bleed screw.
4. 5-7 seconds is all you need to form a new slot with the screwdriver, then pull it out.
5. Wait about a minute or so for it to cool (both the bleed screw and the screwdriver), then insert screwdriver and unscrew the bleed screw :thumbsup:

 

thats what i did when mine broke in half :thumbsup:

 

If that doesnt work trying using an "all" (im not sure on the spelling), but its similar to a dentists pick. Push on one half of the broken bleeder valve and you should get it to turn out slowly. Had the same thing happened to me, within 20 minutes of buying my 330. Some idiot who wasnt used to working on bmw's had replaced the expansion tank and overtightened the bleeder valve. When you put the new one in, be very careful not to overtighten it, because it will crack on you again...

 

When you put the new one in, be very careful not to overtighten it, because it will crack on you again...

Very true. When tightening the bleed screws, you don't need to kill'em, just snug them in.

 

Come to think of it, theres actually a little groove in the plastic screw istelf where i inserted the "all" and pushed to at an angle to turn it counterclockwise

 

the same happenend to me, just 1 hour back...now you mention it, I did really give the screw all I had when tightening it :/

now I need to figure out a way to run from the Kitchen with a hot screw driver all the way out to the car before it cools down...! Or may be i could use the cigarette lighter.

 

You can remove the hose. And work getting it out with the hose out of the car. I was able to get it out easier that way because i create a new insertion into the broken screw to get it out. Think about it as if you were opening a wine bottle. You will be alright.

 

Where is the screw located exactally...did not see it on quick glance. I filled up my tank a month ago, only to check and see that i'm low, only by a little. I did not bleed the system, didn't know there was an option to do so... I don't see any leaks of antifreeze anywhere..so I'm guessing their was air in the line?

 

Nevermind...found where the bleed screw is located from another post. Still not sure however about the loss of coolant...air from not opening the bleed screw...idk what do you think?

 

hi guys, bimmer girl here, hey, the heated screwdriver worked perfect. to the guy who is running out of his kitchen with the hot screwdriver, they make these things called candles for heat! also, i didn't want to replace the coolant bleeder screw with another plastic one so i am ordering a brass one. until that arrives, i am using a 3/8 (bolt size), 24 (thread count) by x5/8". i used the o-ring off my broken plastic bleeder screw. the temporary bolt cost me 9 cents and doesn't leak a bit after replacing my expansion tank. i see no reason why it couldn't be permanent. see ya

 

i am using a 3/8 (bolt size), 24 (thread count) by x5/8". i used the o-ring off my broken plastic bleeder screw.

I was not able to get the heated screwdriver trick to work for me. I used my Harbor Freight pick set to punch a row of holes in the piece of screw that remained in the hose and then used a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the screw.

As for putting in a temporary replacement bolt, I used a 10 mm metric (it IS a German car, after all) bolt with a 1.0 thread pitch from the hardware store. It fits perfectly and cost about $1.00.

One possible reason to stay with a plastic screw is that a metal screw may expand differently than a plastic one and leak.

 

But it isn't a bleed screw as just a bolt. Not bad idea for temp fix though!

I also suspect the reason for the plastic screw we have is because it goes in a plastic ET. BMW engineers are really smart, and I bet they figured that many different skill levels of mechanics would be messing around with those screws, and if they made them out of metal, many more ETs would fail due to overtightening of the bleed screw...

So, be careful with your new metal one!

#1 post, I see. Welcome.

Doug

 

my bleeder screw actually cracked. would i need to replace the whole hose? or just take out the rest of the cracked bleeder screw in the tube and replace that only?

 

That's all you need to do...get a new bleeder screw. Dealer prolly sells that alone...I know there are AM brass screws available...but not really seeing the purpose...and do sense some added risk in those...as it's going in plastic component.

Heat screwdriver, stick it in without melting the threads of hose fitting and you should be good to go...eventually!

 

Just Stab it with a sharp knife! dont be a p@@@@! haha

 

what if the screw that broke off shatters in there? would i need to replace the whole hosE?

 

Is that a hypothetical question or a real one? If real...if it was me...I'd remove the hose and dump out whatever pieces I can...but, as it'd then go into the radiator, I'm pretty sure those little bits won't do much to worry about...can't see them plugging enough to affect cooling...and if by chance they're small enough to get through radiator, then the WP impeller would prolly check them up finer and then help to plasticoat the interior of cooling system!

It's not good, but I think you'll be fine. Just monitor temp...and if things seem odd...then drain completely and maybe flush once with just water...as in fill with water and run a bit...then drain again...and fill again.

Doug

 

yeah man you can the whole hose new for like 25 bucks on pellican parts and takes about 10 minutes to do just remember to bleed it once you put it on..

 

so i just replaced the upper radiator hose and filled it with half coolant/half water. I drove the car for about 15-20 minutes and the radiator light went on again. I popped the hood out and saw that the radiator sprayed out from either the expansion tank cap or the bleeder screw. Am i suppose to tighten both up real tight?

 

Neither 'real' tight. Lube the cap with coolant...and make sure you have 2 0-rings and a rubber gasket below...that's number one.

#2...check coolant level when cool

#3 make sure you bled/bleed system properly...search for TIS on bleeding, or instructions I've posted based on that TIS (dmax and keywords: pos 2, heater high, fan low) ...there are many posts where I've posted instructions that are also many other places...and if you can't find it...read the thread on searching for info in a sticky above.

#4...read more cooling threads in case your cap or something else is leaking

#5...maybe your bleeder itself hadn't cracked...but maybe new bleeder was installed while debris was caught in threads of et and caused bleeder not to seat properly

#6...don't goof around with a cooling system...make sure it's good before driving around...if it overheats...as in, rises from dead center on temp gauge...turn car off immediately...come here and ask for opinions...or pay a good shop to troubleshoot. A failed cooling system leads to really expensive trouble...and since you have an e46, I'll assume you'd rather not spend $1500 or more when $300-450 would buy you a whole new system (450 includes the rad).

HTH

Doug

 

hey guys ive had this problem too but i found the answer... http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_tr...m=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=brass+bleed+screw&_sacat=See-All-Categories its a brass bleed screw for our cars so it wont crack n bend like our shitty plastic ones

 

The bleeder screw need to be turned all the way until it hits the stop. If the stop is not hit, the coolant will spew out while driving. If you turn it beyond the stop, you will damage the screw because it cannot be turned further.

Ignore dmax's random suggestions. These will send you round the bend.

 

brass bleeder valve and buy a new cap while you are at it. they are cheap and worth the money. They go bad like anything else.

 

brass bleeder valve and buy a new cap while you are at it. they are cheap and worth the money. They go bad like anything else.

And now you risk damaging the threads in your upper hose and ones you do, you'll need to buy an upper hose.

That bleeder screw was designed to be plastic for a reason. And this reason is that its cheaper to replace a screw then the upper hose.

The bleeder screw costs a buck and an upper hose costs 50, you do the math.

But a new ET cap is necessary, nonetheless.

 

driving around a few times after i replace my upper hose, i've been bleeding the system buy uncapping and unscrewing and letting all the air out from the cap and screw. so far the coolant hasnt run dry yet. so im guessing its working.

 

I'm hoping that you haven't been doing this while the engine is hot, though I suspect you have been...and I also hope that by 'getting all the air out' that doesn't mean that your expansion tank is not full to the top with coolant...

If it is...stop driving it right now (in case you're on the phone)...get home, let it cool, and lower coolant to between the min and max balls on the ET stick.

If by some chance you don't have a stick...about 5.5" below the top of the filler neck is where coolant should be when engine is cool.

You want air in top of ET...you really do...it's an expansion tank...as in 'thermal expansion tank' and isn't your grandma's or Ford's cooling system! LOL

You need the air...fortunately, when you open it up to let air out...you're letting air back in...unless, again, you've overfilled it...

You're bled already...get level proper and monitor it for a while...you'll prolly lose an oz. or so...maybe more...to be expected.

HTH

Doug