It’s not so much the delayed response or the power loss that concerns me. It’s when the o-ring is fully collapsed and the vanos piston starts grinding against the chamber wall.

I say just get it done since you’re already doing the VCG. You might even enjoy whatever power response you get back.

<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4303/35959633405_62ffc84296_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Untitled">

 

It’s not so much the delayed response or the power loss that concerns me. It’s when the o-ring is fully collapsed and the vanos piston starts grinding against the chamber wall.

I say just get it done since you’re already doing the VCG. You might even enjoy whatever power response you get back.

That is a good point, I did not know such a failure mode was possible. Thanks for pointing it out.

Right now there is a seller on Amazon offering a VANOS rebuild kit for $60 that includes new gaskets, bolts and washers. The kit has great reviews and seems very convenient. Do people here have any experience with it?

Chris.

 

I recommend Beisan vanos o-ring kit.
He sells the best quality vanos seal kits available.
There is also great DIY instructions http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm

I have bought 4-5 sets from him and never had problems with my vanos systems.
You should listen if you have vanos rattle or not, if you have rattle then you need rattle rings.

Here is my 330ci with rattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yPwFh0yeYg

Vanos rattle fixed with Beisan anti-rattle kit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBAugekiaPk

 

I have done this rebuild twice on 2 different vehicles. The first was my 330xi which I had noticed a power loss after the car was warmed up. I noticed a very nice improvement in horsepower. The second time I did it was on my wives 3.0 X5 and I did it because I loved the improvement from the first time. Of course the spark plugs were also replaced but I was very happy with both results. Make sure you use a BMW gasket for the valve cover.

 

Elring is good valve cover gasket and under 40$ including rubber grommet kit under bolts.

 

Folks,

Thank you very much for all the great info, I will go with the Beisansystems seals. They really seem to have done their homework.

Now I need to source all the remaining seals, gaskets, washers, etc. Has anyone assembled the part numbers?

Antti, the videos you posted are extremely helpful. I was aware about the VANOS rattle, but had not heard it. Fortunately my car does not have it, but now I can recognize it if it happens.

I did buy the Elring VCG already, so I will use it. It's easy enough to replace if it does not last, I will get the BMW then.

I like this car a lot and 4WD+snow tires should do well in the snow. Not as fast nor exciting to drive as my '97 M3, but in many ways the E46 platform is better than the E36. Glad I have both since I don't drive the M3 in the winter.

Chris.

 

I used several different types of kits over the years, from the high end to $15 eBay kits.

They all seem to work the same.

The energizing o-rings are the part that fails. Viton o-rings are off-the-shelf items. I don't think that anyone is sourcing something substantially better, and they probably aren't selling fake ones (e.g. regular NBR dyed brown).

The sliding seal is a semi-custom part that needs to be cut to spec. But the existing part doesn't wear out, it's the o-ring underneath that stops applying pressure. BTW, it's usually possible to remove and reuse the sliding seals with negligible damage. They stretch a bit, but you have to stretch and compress the new ones as well.

I put little value on the additional parts. I've ordered kits with bolts several times, only to decide that the original bolts were a better choice. They have the correct flange on the head, proper plating that won't flake off, and quality control. The original gaskets are typically in great shape. And even if they end up with a slight leak, the oil leaks into the oil pan.

 

Welcome Chris! Another 330xi here

Purely coincidental, I'm sure, but mine threw a VANOS code immediately after I put it all back together from doing coils, plugs, M56 valve cover, replacing vac hoses and a bunch of other stuff. So yeah, I wish I'd done it preventatively rather than having to take it all apart again ...

I got lazy and went with a rebuilt unit from Dr VANOS. Very happy with the result.

 

I did my vanos seals because of the 'vanos seal scare' here and honestly I didn't notice a difference then. I'm probably 200,000 miles past then now...haven't redone them...car runs lovely. But, if you do need the seals, I recommend Beisan too...Raj was a great support when I was worried I'd messed something up.

 

OK, you guys convinced me to rebuild my VANOS and go with Beisan Systems seals (ordered). I am now looking what else I need. I have a new valve cover gasket (it's leaking anyway) and I am buying a new BMW original timing cover gasket (part #11-36-1-433-817). Do I need to replace the VANOS gaskets? Any other hardware?

Chris.

 

You get everything you need including gaskets in the VANOS rebuild kit. You have to buy the needle bearings and anti-rattle rings seperately but you don't really need to do them if they are not rattling.

 

I like this car a lot and 4WD+snow tires should do well in the snow. Not as fast nor exciting to drive as my '97 M3, but in many ways the E46 platform is better than the E36. Glad I have both since I don't drive the M3 in the winter.

I agree the car is amazing in the snow with the right tires, but my e36 does well in the snow even with just a set of Blizzaks on the back.

 

VANOS issues on the M54 are, by comparison to other BMW engines, limited. To offer a point of reference, I've taken two E46s now past 200K miles on their original VANOS units without issue and unless the VANOS is actually rattling, there is no urgency to rebuild it.

If addressed as PM, however, syncing it up with a VCG job isn't a bad idea at your mileage. There has been a Beisan rebuild kit sitting in my parts bin for a couple years now and when this VCG eventually fails, I'll probably use it.

 

Chris, make sure you carefully examine the valve cover itself for any small cracks while you have it off. There are a few threads on here showing where they commonly occur. You don***8217;t want to get that plastic VC back on with a new gasket and see oil seeping out shortly thereafter.

 

I'm at 136k on original VANOS and seals. I'll say M52TU engines the VANOS issue is a lot more obvious, the M54, masked a lot better. I'm not gonna drink the VANOS rebuild koolaid, yeah I'll most likely feel the power difference, but zero rattle, no urgency to fix it. I don't care about the power loss of the seals being worn when I've never felt the power in the first place

 

Maybe worth to remember that working dual vanos also saves fuel.
In my country fuel is so expensive, i have do all tricks..

 

at 160k I would not hesitate to do the vanos seals. especially if you’re going to do the VCG and plugs.

please be careful to be well read on procedure, also diligent on VCG sealing and the cover itself. many people pry it up then hairline crack it. take your time removing it. and allow proper half moon sealing and set-up installing it.

 

My car with 85k , vanos seals were dead. Much improvement with new parts.

 

The life expectancy and condition of VANOS seals is very much tied to your oil and filter maintenence regime. Clean oil extends their life.

 

I was having some rough idle issues around 30k ago, many things got sorted in the process of finding out the cause of the issue, Sensors / PCV / DISA.
Although it wasn't the cause of the issue, in the end the VANOS seal change was one of the cheapest things to do and I'm glad it was done - peace of mind moving forwards and the seals are better than the stock ones.
When my tech took out the old seals he did notice they were quite hard, so although there was no rattling they were not in the best shape.