Was always curious about both the Russian replacement diaphragm and how the hell you would remove the cover.

 

Well, I ended up ordering a new disa, but someday I'll hopefully rebuild this ruined one or use it to repair another one (my son has the same car and will eventually need a disa repair).

 

Exact same issue with my pot cap. Although I think I can still use it. I only chipped a very small piece off which seems to not be near the portion where the diaphragm sits and seals. I'm gonna put some kind of sealant in the crack once I put it back together. I like you just planned on buying a new one anyway. Everything else was good on mine as well. But I went ahead and changed the flapper and pin. Had the exact same split and wouldn't pass the "cover the hole" test.

 

Hope somebody eventually comes up with a successful technique for popping it off . But really, with all the other possible disa issues, probably usually makes the most sense to just get a new one. Unfortunately they are not cheap!

I'm really hoping that my new disa (which arrives tomorrow) solves my issue of my car having slightly less torque than I think it should have. My son has the exact same car, and his car has more torque. I haven't pulled his disa to inspect it though. I don't have any codes logged or obvious other issues, and have already replaced the vanos seals, and am pretty sure the clutch isn't slipping, engine runs smoothly, and am getting an average 27 mpg. I suppose the slight loss of lower-rpm torque could be several other things though.

My casual inspection of my disa has now turned into a bigger job, as I realize that while I'm in there I might as well replace my CCV oil return line, clean my ICV and throttlebody, and replace my leaky vanos oil line .

 

My casual inspection of my disa has now turned into a bigger job, as I realize that while I'm in there I might as well replace my CCV oil return line, clean my ICV and throttlebody, and replace my leaky vanos oil line .

You might as well replace the entire CCV, OFHG and the vacuum plugs on the rear of the intake. Consider a fuel pump replacement as well.

 

Yeah I replace the entire CCV....It just fell apart when I grabbed it, every vacuum line I could see, injector orings, dipstick orings, air distributor orings, throttle body gasket, all intake boots, brake booster vacuum line, one way valve, brake booster (used).......Only problems now is I believe I have to bleed the DSC/pre-charge as my pedal hits the floor.....LOL....and I'll put it all back together to see if the disa repair kit worked. If not, I'll just spring for a new one. It didn't pass the "plug the hole and release" test before or after the repair.....I read others saying the same thing so I don't know.

 

while on the DISA subject, when I did my CCV back in may, we discovered my flap was basically loose and so [on a Saturday] I "repaired" it, with a small #4 screw thru the flap and shaft, screw at 12 oclock at rest[open flap] and a small amount of jb weld to further keep the screw from ever coming out.. as soon as I could I ordered a replacement, BUT my question is this.........there seemed to be no real seal where the off white actuator [that the diaphragm pulls] goes thru the body and this would leak like a bad oring leaks? the "cover" that snaps off so you can rotate the cam/lever and then test with the port to see if it holds has no seal that I can see either?

 

I'm sure jfoj has a better answer but I thought the same thing. And I wonder if that's why some disa valves won't stay 1/4 the way open when doing the off-car test. Mine returns back to the 90 degree position no mattter how much I try to cover the hole. Did it before and after the repair kit. I just ordered a new one so I'm not riding around nervous about it.

 

Just for reference, my brand-new BMW disa (arrived today!) easily stays 1/4 open without any major effort to mash your thumb over the hole. I just got everything put back together and it idles fine, no apparent issues. Unfortunately, we have salt and snow so I will wait to test whether this solved my torque issue.

Jfoj, thanks for the recommendations--I actually have done the OFHG, and the original owner replaced the fuel pump right before I bought the car (so a couple thousand miles ago). I did only do the oil return line of the CCV, because I'm cheap and lazy, and because the car only has 110K miles, hoping the rest of the CCV is relatively OK. The only thing I'm not sure about is when you say "the vacuum plugs on the back of the intake." Do you mean that thin, hard vacuum line that comes out of the secondary air pump? I did replace that a few weeks ago.

 

Just wanted to quickly report back...drove my car to work today and maybe it's my imagination, but it seems to have more torque and is running great. So I'm happy with the new disa.

 

Same here. New DISA and response seems much better. Now if could get rid of this spongy brake pedal. Smh. From stiff to spongy by replacing booster and check valve. Ordered a gt1 setup to cycle the dsc. grrrr


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics mobile app