I don't have the codes all memorized yet. If you want random guesses...English translation please?

...and a bump.

 

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=815063

seems like CCV system??

 

maybe the precat 02 sensors

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These codes should are:

P1188 = Fuel Control (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1189 = Fuel Control (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

This means your fuel mixture is off, but not far enough to trigger any lean codes. It is likely your car is running lean as they rarely run rich.

Agree that it could likely be the CCV lower oil return line. Many times a smoke test will no show this, as many places only smoke test the intake path and not the crankcase. This is about a $15 part, easy to determine if it is a problem once you know where to look for it. Will cause these codes and the car will run fine, maybe some misfire codes from time to time.

Suggest you check the first link below in my signature for more info.

And it is not a problem with your O2 sensors, they are reporting something is out of line and they are both reporting the same condition, so they are likely functioning correctly. That being said, with your mileage, your car could benefit from replacement O2 sensors, but they will not solve your problem and may actually trigger more codes if replaced.

 

I had very similiar problems where P1188 & P1189 codes came up on scan tool. I changed CCV, O2 PreCats, plugs, filters, performed smoke test, had good gas milage and no noticable performance issue but still P1188 & P1189 codes.
You need to scan your vehicle while driving or freeze the parameters which trip the P1188 & P1189 codes.
It turned out that my MAF sensor was the problem. Look at LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) should be 0.0... mine was 11.7.
Once I installed a new MAF and re-scanned the codes never apperaed again. I installed the Hyundai - Siemens MAF and have no issues.

 

I got the same codes and found that my boots were cracked. I cleared the codes and it keeps coming back at around 34 miles of driving.So I replaced my intake boots that connects to the throttle body. Now it shows 1188 after 60 miles of driving.

 

update , I replaced both intake boots, ccv system and hoses , disa ( its wasn't working right) , all rubber hoses that i can find, fuel filter, spark plugs, and sea foam . Car runs great , idles perfect but still 1188 and 1189 pops up are 70 - 1oo miles after reset . anyone in CT dealt with this? maybe we can swap mas and see if thats the problem. and help would be great!

 

It happened to me too, initially with the cracked boots it shows every 35 miles after I cleared the code. After replacing it, it shows every 100 miles.

I couldnt figure it out either what causing the code to show up. So what I did was I cleared the code, followed the driving cycle multiple times in a week with a scanner plugged in. The Oxygen and catalyst monitor are the hardest one to set, sometimes the 1188 and 89 codes will show up as pending code( SES light still off). BUt once I cleared and set the oxygen monitor it was a breeze and I passed smog test with the catalyst still not ready.

 

P1188 and P1189 mean FUEL CONTROL MALFUNCTION, BANK 1 & BANK 2, respectively. Fuyel control can be rich or lean, or it can have a malfunction -- which logic says is both rich and lean at different times.

My car had these codes, and the MAF (not mas, by the way) was the problem. I had a couple of P0100 or P0101 (I forget which and don't really care very much), which mean the MAF is not reporting correctly.

The job of the MAF
As air enters the intake, the MAF reads the air quality -- density and temperature -- to determine how much fuel needs to be delivered to obtain an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 parts of air to each part of fuel. As you open and close the throttle plate, there is a change in the demand for fuel based upon how much air is going in. The O2 Sensors monitor the exhaust stream to fine tune the fuel delivery to maintain the air fuel ratio of 14.7:1. This is what the MAF does when it works.

Air quality does not change very much in any given drive cycle. Consider the air quality to be static -- it does not change. Surely, the air quality does change, but any change is slow and progressive -- day turns to night and air goes from warm and thin to cold and thick -- but from one minute to the next the air quality should generally not change. When the MAF breaks, it can report warm and thin air one minute and cold and dense air the next. Then back again. The computer sees these changes in air quality and this alters the fuel delivery algorithm, keep in mind that the air quality is actually a static condition so the fuel demand should be constant also. The O2s are copntinuously reading the exhaust and telling the computer, more gas next time, less gas next time, more, less, okay that's good, more, less.... And so on. The amount of gas in the exhaust should be steady, but since the MAF is not working correctly, then the amount of gas that is delivered to the combustion chambers is all over the place.

If the fuel control was reliably lean or reliably rich, then the O2s would report as appropriate. Your car is sometimes rich and sometimes lean, the O2s report, no matter what we say to do, the fuel control is never right -- or, FUEL CONTROL MALFUNCTION, BANK 1 & BANK 2 (P1188 & P1189).

My car had a shorted transistor inside the epoxy bed in the MAF. I forget which transistor was the problem, but I clearly remember that the diagnostic package said that the transistor gate was shorted to ground. Somebody here has said that their connector to the MAF had a problem with the pins being stretched, or something, and the resulting poor connection gave unreliable information to the computer.

 

p1188 & p1189 what a pain!!






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There are also some non OE MAF's out there that are causing problems. Not sure which ones have been issues, but they typically have been under reporting airflow.

So if you can borrow a known good MAF and/or swap MAF's with someone this would be a cost effective way to determine if you need to replace your MAF.

Be wise if you end up buying a new one. www.oembimmerparts.com or www.bmaparts.com seem to have decent pricing and quality MAF's.

I am sure someone else may have some sources.

 

Now with a bad MAF wouldn't the car hesitate? or stumble on cold start up? My Idles fine in cold and warm weather, drives great with no hesitation. Gas usage is average but still i can't figure it out. I connected my reader and the
maf as around .40 LB/min at idle and and about 2-3 volts around 3k? Could it be a really , small leak? bad o2 sensors? I can the car 128 miles before the light came on.

 

You need to tell us what engine you have.

If you have a 6 cylinder your idle airflow it too low. You should actually set your tool to display in Grams/Sec.

0.4 lbs/min = 3 grams/sec which is about 2-3 grams/sec too low for a 6 cylinder as I recall.

Doubt you MAF is bad, or at least would not go there until you have ruled out the basics.

See the first link below in my signature for more ideas.

 

just remember after you do all the cleaning and replacing of parts at the top of the engine, it all passes by the end of the checking system. what i mean is pull your oxygen sensor(s) and use parts cleaner spray and clean it out. if you run rich, it will clog up reading ports and give bad readings. so if you clean and or replace do it from top to bottom. cant clean the attic and not expect dust to settle in the basement. just sayin.

 

I got frustrated and gave up back in january , but now since my emissions is coming up i need to see if i can fixed this. So far i replaced
replaced both intake boots
ccv system and hoses
disa all rubber hoses that i can find
fuel filter
spark plugs
sea foam
gas cap
MAF "berkley" seems old one worked fine but gas mileage is up

I have the fuel regulator and valve cover gasket to change next( there isnt reall a leak just looks wet)
I have smoke tested in the past and have not found any leaks
I have also checked the fuel pressue and it seemed fine
If anyone has any other idea or if your close to CT maybe you can give me a hand. The car runs perfect and idles with no fluctions hot cold or inbetween.

Thanks
Dave

 

I cleared all the codes to day , check the fuel pressure and it was 51 and held 45-47 when off . I went to go replace the fuel pressure regulator just as a maintance item and the new one end up being bad right out of the box. The old one went right back in.
I too some readings off my scan tool this is what i got.
rpm 720
cal load 9.4
map .36
cool 199
iat 118
ign adv 4.5
lt ftrm1 10.2
st frtrm1 -7 to -3.9
lt frtrm2 10.2
st frtrm2 -3 to -7
st frtrm11 -5 to -7
st frm21 -5 to -10

i also check my emissions ready values & everything showed ready except for evap system mon .

these values all taken at idle
let me know what you think

thanks
dave

 

Go grab a maf from a junkyard. Shouldn't be more than 75 bucks

 

i have a brand new one installed less then 3 days old .

 

codes came back these are the values i got
p1188 p1189
rpms 2110
cal load 18.8
coolant 196
lt ftrm1 10.2
st ftrm1 9.4
lt ftrm2 10.2
st ftrm2 8.6
speed 29
fuel sys 1 cl
fuel sys 2 cl

 

Re: p1188 & p1189 what a pain!!

Your Freeze Frame data shows lean at cruise. Likely a MAF issue, I see you claim it is new. Just because it is new does not mean it is working properly and/or is good quality. I cannot recall what a 328 MAF looks like, but if it is like a 330 MAF and big expensive, then I would guess you may have a junky MAF?

BUT do not jump to the MAF yet. Do you have your old MAF still?

Also noticed your idle fuel trims were directly opposing each other. Something is not right here.

Humor me first by unplugging one pre Cat O2 sensor, wait for it to trigger a code and verify 100% it is the proper bank. I have seen situations recently where the O2 wiring is backwards causing all sorts of unusual and hard to solve problems. Once you verify the pre Cat wiring, you may also want to verify the post Cat wiring as well just to be sure everything is properly connected. Cheap insurance to make sure this is not an issue.

What is the current MAF? Where did you purchase it? How much did it cost? What brand?

There are a lot of counterfeit/crap quality MAF's on the market. Most work fine at idle, but under report airflow while under load, causing lean conditions.

 

p1188 & p1189 what a pain!!

The MAF senses the mass of the air entering the engine. That's why it's call a "mass air flow" sensor.


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so i replaced my valve cover gasket , smoked it with my home made machine and found some small hair cracks in the cover. Not sure if it was there before i did the gasket but a quick abs weld took care of that. re-smoked found nothing. same p1188 & p1189 . I was looking at the real time data and notice how lean it was running at idle, covered up a small portion of the MAF with duct tape and notice the short term values start to zero out the more i restricted the opening. Found the sweet spot were the short term values stayed at 0 and the map increased from .37 to .45 . drove it around for two days . no more check engine light and all the emission parameters went to okay. Drove my car down to emissions and yes finally it passed with flying colors !!! I don't know if it is a faulty MAF thats not reading the air flow correctly and by restricting the the hole size allowed more air to pass over the sensor ? Or i truly have an air leak and just tricked the maf of thinking all the air is coming from the intake. By the way the car runs great and im getting 28-29 miles on the highway while on cruise control.. What are your thoughts?

 

Sounds like a Phd in Engineering lol....I did everything with my car before I finally fixed it. I changed the MAF boot and cleaned the sensors to with electric cleaning spray that somehow did the trick. Good job!

 

thanks,

 

Jfoj any thoughts?