First things first. Are you sure the code was P1071 and not actually P0171?? P0171 is Bank #1 Lean.

1. You need to buy the OBDFusion OBDII App for your phone or tablet and the proper interface, both are less than $30. VeePeak interfaces on Amazon are cheap and reliable. Bluetooth for Android and Wifi for iProducts.

2. Do not replace any parts yet.

3. If the car has the original fuel pump, replace it NOW, you will thank be for not walking in the snow and sub zero weather.

4. Buy a cheap fluid transfer pump and smoke test the intake and crankcase.

5. Read these attached threads:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1113395

 

Thanks for the reply, I'm getting the app now and searching for the adapter. I have a Samsung s5. So get the Bluetooth one?

I replaced the fuel filter last year. Also I've noticed a loud noise near it just like the old one. Is that normal?

And with the app and adapter. Is it 2 things I need? Or is this interface a separate thing, sorry just trying to understand everything

Thank you


Edit: reading your first guide, I've also replaced the disa valve last year.

And sorry yes I ment p0171 code

 

First check the o-ring on the oil filter housing cap. It should be in the groove, not all the way up to the flange. If you don't get it there, you'll both leak oil and show signs of an air leak.

When you did CCV, did you clean the dipstick holder tube well or replace with the superceded part?

Also, if the oil light comes on at start and goes off after 15 secs. or so, it's just a bad level sensor...not an issue per se if you check your oil level.

If your vanos oil line is leaking, you'll see it clearly. Might just be you need to tighten up the connections, but if you replace it, it's a good time to do the oil filter housing gasket too (different than the o-ring referenced above).

Also, common source of running lean is a crack in the lower intake boot. If going there, good time to clean Throttle Body and Idle Control Valve.
hth

 

Thanks for the reply dmax. I've replaced that gasket at the oil filter housing, is that the o-ring you're talking about? Also on the dipstick part, I'll have to ask my brother as he did everything for me before I even made it to the shop haha. I know I disnt replace anything related to the dipstick though. Just the CCV and hoses that came with the kit.

Edit: just read your edit on the o-ring. I'll have to do some digging around to check it out. Thank you

 

The App and OBDII wireless interface is ALL you need.

Here is the Bluetooth interface for your Android - https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Blue.../B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475028578&sr=8-1&keywords=veepeak+bluetooth

Did you clean out the double walled dipstick tube?? This can be a big problem and in colder locations it is a necessary item that needs to be addressed.

If there is a moaning near the fuel filter/driver side floor, the fuel pump is soft and needs to be replaced.

 

thank you very much jfoj! I literally just placed my order for that adapter with 2 day shipping as you replied back. I'm working on getting the app here soon. You prefer the $3.99 app over any others? Just curious.

And yes, it makes a pretty loud noise. Almost like a weird humming or like you said a moaning sound. I'm going to check out O'Reillys tomorrow too see what it'll cost for a new one.

On the other hand. This oil consumption issue is really getting annoying and I just want to get it figured out. The worst part in my opinion is finding it. That's a big relief to me.

Edit that. I'll be ordering a new fuel pump and relay from rockauto haha

 

Slow down on the fuel pump order!

You want a Siemens/VDO fuel pump, suggest you check the pricing on the fuel pump at FCPEuro and BMAParts. You will need 1 small worm drive hose clamp, I usually reuse the pump gasket/O-ring without any problems.

Last I checked the Siemens/VDO pump and sending unit assembly was around $145?

Also the OBDFusion App is what you want, do not worry about the $3.99 App price. Trust me, I have been down this road many times before.

 

Thanks again, I found the pump on Amazon from bma for 149. I also added a relay for 20 bucks. But my question now is, this clamp. Can I just use any hose clamp or do I need that weird looking one? It took me a little bit but I've found pictures of it. But yet to find one too buy

Thank you

 

Standard small worm drive hose clamp from the local auto parts store, home or tractor center.

You will have to cut the original clamp off at the fuel pump.

Make sure the car has 3/4 tank of fuel or less before you remove the fuel pump.

 

To add to what jfoj has written, you should replace the fuel filter if/when you change the fuel pump. Make sure the filter is made by Mahle or Keyser.

 

Hey markusmarkus, thanks for the reply. I did change the filter last year and it's maybe got 5k miles on it. It was believed to have the original filter in it when I replaced it with 145k miles. You think I should still replace the filter with only 5k miles on it?

Thanks

 

If the filter has 5k miles on it, does not need to be changed again.

I do not hard on fuel filter changes for a few reasons.

RARELY will one of these fuel filters clog up and leave you stranded like a failed fuel pump.

These fuel filters are HUGE relative to other makes and models, they can go for a LONG time without being changed, however, it is WISE to change them every 40-60k miles IMHO.

These fuel filters are FAR more difficult to replace compared to the fuel pump.

If there is a fuel related problem, rarely will it be due to the fuel filter, it is usually the fuel pump, you can change the pump and delay the filter change for days or weeks without a problem.

I assume many times owners do the basic Maintenance on something like filters, so again, I do not harp on it too much.

 

Awesome, great to know! Btw, when my brother took a look at my O2 sensors, it looks to be they may be the original ones. Would you recommend changing those out wither they are faulty or not? 150k on the odometer

 

Hey jfoj, another question came to mind after talking with my brother last night. I explaining to him how my misfires may be caused by the bad fuel pump and he says if that was the case. All of them would be misfiring. (I'm getting misfires on 1 2 & 3 plus a multiple misfire code with a follow-up one pending.) I'm not sure if the multiple misfires are referring to the 123 or all. He says because of it being those 3, he believes it's a O2 sensor.

I'm just curious what your thought are.

Thank you

 

Common urban myth in the automotive repair community that O2 sensors are the root of all evil, they rarely cause a misfire problem and rarely cause Lean conditions. The O2 sensor needs to be relatively healthy in order to actually trigger Lean codes!

The MAF rarely is as big of a problem as most people and even professional mechanics make it out to be.

As for the fuel pump problem, these engines are feed from the rear of the fuel rail, so usually Bank #1, Cylinders 1-3 may show as Lean or misfire before Bank #2, Cylinders 4-6.

You would be FAR better off waiting on the OBDII interface and gathering "Real" data then listening to people, even myself, that have no facts on what is going on.

This being said, I will continue to repeat myself that EVERY E46 should have had a replacement fuel pump by now. The fuel pump in my E46 failed at year 8 and around 84k miles. I had a spare on the shelf for 2 years waiting to replace the pump. I had done a LOT of work and the weather turned on me before I could replace the pump, I wanted to do it about 1 week before it failed on my. Luckily the pump failed in the driveway and I had the pump on hand!! I was just plain lucky.

 

Thanks for that information. I don't mean to make you repeat yourself and I'm sure tons of people ask the same questions as I have.

on a good note, my adapter came a day early and I'll be grabbing it when I get home. I'll hook it up and log data as I drive to pick up my son from the daycare. Hopefully I'll have some log information for you this evening!

Thanks again for alllll the help you've giving me, I'm truly appreciative of it

 

Alrighty, got a few logs of me driving it. 2 with the check engine light on and one with it cleared (doubt it makes a difference). Also, I had p0174 bank 2 lean aswell when I popped in the veepeak adapter today. And I noticed the O2 sensor 1 kept changing when I watched. Not sure if thats normal or not. It would nearly drop to 0 then shoot back up to what O2 sensor 2 was at, and repeat.

How do I attached these logs and 2 photos?

 

Read the PDF document in the 3rd link above in Post #2. I had provided ALL the info you needed already. You will want to use DropBox, this is the easiest as OBDFusion has upload integrated into the App.

In the FUTURE, DO NOT clear codes until you run a Diagnostic Report and upload it to DropBox so the Freeze Frame info has been saved.

 

Got the fuel pump replaced this evening. Buddy says it did Indeed have the original (150k miles) in it. He also said that damn thing could've went at any time. He tore it all apart and it looked pretty rough.

We'll see how she runs for a bit. Already seeing better fuel trim % with the obd fusion =)

 

Assume the humming/moaning noise is going now?

If so, the fuel pump was about to leave you stranded.

If not, the problem was not related to the fuel system.

 

Yup, the humming sound is gone now. Going to drive it around, see how she runs and if those check engine lights come back. But that's half the battle... still trying to figure out the oil consumption problem. My brother and I have discussed pulling the motor and overhauling her. While doing that, dropping the tranny and so forth. Replacing a few more well needed parts while sending off other pieces too be redone. I'll keep you updated on the MIL situation.

thanks again

 

If the humming/moan is gone, then most likely this was due to a soft fuel pump.

I would then start to monitor the engine coolant temperature closely, figure out what oil you are using, make sure the OFHG is not leaking and then check to make sure the CCV and dipstick tube are not a problem. Even if the CCV has been replaced, there were some defective units as well

But one step at a time.

Start by figuring out how to Log with OBDFuson so we can see the bigger picture.
\

 

I was actually going to ask now that you said it. My engine Temps Been showing 215f - 218f. Is that high? I've replaced the temp sensor last year,aswell. Along with a list of other things. Water pump included.

Also I use mobile 1 full synthetic for cars with high miles. Brother suggested to use regular oil or even 5-40 if I can find it. I currently use 5-30.

Also, I did get dropbox setup up and even uploaded some logs. One or two of them were with the check engine light on but I had EVERYTHING checked to be logged. And I read your pdf write up and reset it up. But no logs with those settings yet with the MIL on.

 

Temps appears slightly high based on what you stated, but again, I do not fully understand the context. Assume this was prolonged idle? More than likely an airflow/fan issue would be my guess. Might need to test the temps/fans a bit to see what is going on.

Provide a link for the Logs in DropBox, you can choose to "Share", suggest you choose to Share the Folder as it shave you a lot off effort, and a hyperlink will be created, you copy and past the hyperlink back in the thread here.

 

Here's a hyperlink to my current dropbox. I'll be adding more info as I record it. Also yes, I'm thinking possibly a fan on the engine temp? I've also got a new thermostat as of last year.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cy8o1fmvh364q33/AADxYHRRUCVcxFrnH79_cho7a?dl=0


Edit: I'll take another look at the OFHG, we did replace that right before the CCV went on me. I don't hardly have any oil spots under my car (with it loosing as much oil as it has in 3 week) nor any blue/white smoke from the exhaust. After I left the shop yesterday, my brother told me to step on it so he can watch for any blue smoke from possibly running lean on the old fuel pump, but now with the new one in. But he said nothing came out.

 

A few comments.

Go into the Settings, Units, and change Airflow from lb/Min to g/s

Please run a Diagnostic Report with the engine running and upload the report to DropBox.

Can you only the select ONLY the PID's that are needed. You want to disable ALL the GPS and Acceleration information along with all the PID's the engine does not support like the Bank 3 & 4 O2 sensors and Fuel Trim.

This makes the polling faster and makes it much easier for me to weed through all the details.

Engine temp is a bit higher than I would like to see it, but I need to look over the Logs a bit more to see what may be going on.

What brand and weight oil are you running in the car now?

 

5-30 mobile 1 full synthetic for high mileage cars. Also just a couple of those logs are with everything checked. The newer CSV are with your PDF settings as I unchecked everything and rechecked what you had listed. I'll try and get you some more logs. In a few minutes me and the family are talking a 3 hour trip too a wedding. Would you like a full log of the drive?

 

No 3 hour Log. Too much data.

 

gotcha, just uploaded a 6 minute log from a cold start to the air port

 

Do not see the latest cold start Log in DropBox.

 

Should be there now, made a direct upload of it and another

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cy8o1fmvh364q33/AADxYHRRUCVcxFrnH79_cho7a?dl=0

 

So the cold start Log was a bit tricky to look over.

For cold start Logs, launch the App, turn the ignition on, but not start the engine, connect the App and make sure if can see the vehicle data, I usually check the engine coolant temp. Then start the engine, do not touch the throttle or drive the car for 5 minutes. Then shut the App down so I have just the cold start Log.

Then I would like a 4 minute warm idle Log after the car has been driven about 20+ minutes so the engine is fully warmed up. Start the App and connect to the car while the engine is idling, after 4 minutes, disconnect the App.

Then run a Diagnostic Report while the engine is running.

Post all of these to DropBox.

A few initial comments, the MAF reading on the cold start Log toward the end of the Log period was low. Not sure if you have intake air leaks or an under reporting MAF.

The Bank #1 Pre-cat O2 sensor looks slightly lazy. Not sure if you think the Pre-cat O2 sensors are original? I am finding most of these are, had a 2000 323i today that had original Pre-cat O2 sensors still! 16 year old car with 180k miles.

Bosch 14377 Direct Fit Pre-cat narrowband O2 sensors are like $43 from Amazon, just check these today.

Before I would loose a lot of sleep on the oil usage, I would change the current Mobil 1 to a 5W40 Castrol and see what happens with the oil usage. But if you have CCV problem or crankcase air leaks, then this would impact oil consumption on the vehicle as well.

 

Great information, I've got tomorrow off so that'll be a perfect day to do these log tests when I get up.

When I do the diagnosis test, it says to have the car off and on the on position?

yesterday when we did my fuel pump. We did spray for leaks aswell as cleaned the MAF. Didn't see any noticeable change in the rpms but they thought they heard a leak down by the lower side of the cold air intake,near the boot. But like I said we sprayed everywhere, and didn't notice any change.

and yes on the O2 sensors, we believe they are all original and when I had my bad CCV I'd assume they may have taken a beating from the oil passing through =/.

Also, I checked my oil this morning before leaving. And it actually read slightly above full? Not sure why when yesterday it showed slightly under full. After this 6 hour round trips done. I'm going to check it again.

I'll try and have those reports for you tomorrow

thank you!

 

Thanks jfoj, I'm heading to walmart once I get home. I'll look for the essentials to smoke my car.

For the O2's, I'm going too get those ordered up.

I'll get back to you on my findings with the smoke test and get those logs/diagnosis test uploaded

Thanks again

 

Alrighty, I just finished up with the cold start no throttle/drive and warm idle no throttle/drive logs. Along with the diagnosis report.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cy8o1fmvh364q33/AADxYHRRUCVcxFrnH79_cho7a?dl=0


Edit: forgot too add, after my trip last night and checking my oil this morning. If I clean the dip stick, put it back in for 10 seconds then pull it out. It's just under full. But if I check it after a minute or 2. It shows full? Dumb question I know but just curious to your thoughts.

Also my coolant light came on when I started my cold start log. So I had to add some coolant. I haven't had to add coolant for a very long time. Years to say.

 

Bosch 14377 Direct Fit Pre-cat narrowband*O2 sensors*are like $43 from Amazon, just check these today.

These are the upstream I assume? I would like to order all new O2 sensors and was wondering if you could direct me too the downstream Bosch ones to order with these. Thanks jfoj

Also I see 13477 (not 14377) listed on amazon. We're those the correct ones?

 

Your correct, 13477. I think my Lesdixia got the best of me.

Not sure I would jump on the Post-cat O2 sensors at this point. They can be a PITA to replace compared to the Pre-cat sensors.

I need to look over your graphs a bit more in detail, some funny things going on with the coolant temp as well.

Regarding the coolant level, I would bet the sensor in the lower radiator hose is leaking. They only leak when the engine is off from what I have seen.

The O-ring can be replaced on the sensor, they usually only last about 5 years. Part number is the last item in my signature.

 

Car threw a code again this morning on my way to work. I'll get a Diagnostic Report uploaded on my noon break.