Not sure I would get overly excited about small variations in coil resistance. I think the 20% values you are asking about is a "tolerance", meaning the measurement could vary by as much as +/- 20% of the value listed in the chart? I would move the #4 coil to a different position and see what happens to the P0304 code.

As for the P0304, is this only on cold start?

I did not see any comments about the DISA or more importantly the DISA O-ring.

What are the warm idle Fuel Trim values?

Have you checked the power brake booster? Your car may be a bit young for power brake booster problems, but anything is possible.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387

 

P0304 Coil Packs & other troubleshooting

I forgot to mention the DISA O-ring was also replaced last year; vacuum on the flap was ok. Remains at 45 degrees when DISA carb was covered by my finger; and was a very tight fit when I snugged it back in. I replaced the Vacuum hose to the SAP just last week. Brake booster tests ok as far as I can tell. No loss of resistance in the pedal at all after the car has been parked over night. The car idles worst at cold start & smoothes out as the car drives throughout the day but never really smooooths out. A/c helps but that's only because the car raises the idle. I'll get fuel trims, warm idle and cold start and post. Like I said sometimes there is no freeze frame for it but I assume OBDFusion should still see what's going on.

Edit: I'll clear the code and see if I happens while driving today most likely will occur in the AM tomorrow.
Edit2: I did remove the old DISA O-ring before installing the new one. Took my Tim with a pick and made sure non of the original was led on.

 

If the SES/CEL/MIL is on, or if there are codes (as long as they are not Pending) there WILL BE FREEZE FRAME data.

Run a Diagnostic Report with the engine warm and idling before clearing codes. Save the report, it will have Freeze Frame data in the report.

 

This post provides the Cold Start Freeze Frame Data linked to the P0304 Code which is the current code regarding this thread. I have also attached a Google Drive Link to the Warm Idle Log .CSV File from OBDFusion.

NOTE:
After this last post, I answered a phone call and then preceded to button up the car. Something I noticed while looking into the Spark plug wells to double check the cleanliness before reinstalling the Coil Packs was a very, and I mean very small amount of what looked like (and was) RTV Red which is what I used last year. Thought it was a little strange to see because I didn't over use it at all. When I touched it, it was soft enough to spread a little... Is RTV Red not suitable for the VCG or the e46 engine temp? This may be the cause of the misfire if there is leak enough. Now I must repeat that it was only a tiny bit, like what comes out of a new super glue bottle... Tiny. Yet perhaps this is an indication of an issue with my choice of RTV type? If so which should I have used?

Google Drive OBDFusion Warm Idle Log:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7lrxrxNyskCUm51a2NYVGpNYlU

Freeze Frame Data from a cold start the other morning (current P0304 code):

 

If you get a chance, capture a highway cruise Log, try to keep the car at a steady speed somewhere in the 50-65MPH range on a fairly level stretch with light traffic. Cruise control is best. 4-5 minutes would be great.

So you still have some Fuel Trim issues as well.

Note that there is a Pending P0171 Lean code for Bank #1, not Bank #2 where the misfire is occurring.

I also see Bank #1 Post Cat O2 sensor Voltage looks a bit strange, unclear if this is a sensor issue, a catalytic converter issue or both. This is part of the reason I want to see the highway cruise Log.

What happens if you let the engine idle for 3-5 minutes? Does the engine idle fine?

I am a bit concerned about the MAF reading, it is slightly on the high side in the warm idle Log, but is is very high in the Freeze Frame data for the engine basically idling. Freeze Frame can be a bit tricky and sometimes things do not appear as they really are, so I am cautious about his MAF value in the Freeze Frame data.

Bank #1 LTFT is very Negative. This means the DME is removing fuel for some reason, it thinks Bank #1 is running Rich. I find most Rich conditions are bogus due to bad sensor input.

I am starting to wonder if you actually have an over reporting MAF and a problem with Bank #2 actually suffering from a Lean condition that is being covered up or masked by a problem MAF?? The LTFT for Bank #2 is still slightly Negative as well. but there is like a 10% difference between Bank #1 & #2. Kind of a strange/unusual situation.

There are some clear problems here, this trick is to find out what they are and get them resolved.

 

If I let it idle the engine never really smoothes out. I was thinking mounts, but if i give it some throttle while in park, the rpm will drop below 1k a bit after its descent and lights will dim slightly. Idle feels low to me and not sure what the normal idle in park is. Idle in drive is low as well and not smooth, A/C brings it up which is to be expected. It has become much better over time after all the listed work in my first post on this thread. A curious thing though, I had no trouble codes for 4 days after replacing all the 02 Sensors, OBDFusion diagnostic posted ready for emissions, then the P0304 popped up.
I have the .CSV file from last night before warm idle log was taken. It was on the freeway, and cruse was set at 55MPH at time stamp 789.42. It's a bit long because I was warming up the car, but reached those speed prior at time stamp 352.611 without cruse. Are there any relays or fuses I can check or replace related to the MAF before forking over the cash for a new one, or even cleaning it out and testing it with a voltmeter? This current MAF was from a used e46 with a production date roughly 2 months before mine. This was for troubleshooting a while back and no changes detected between the old MAF and new one. I hope it's not ECU related. I stated in my thread about solving P0420/P0421 with my 02 sensor replacement that I had removed the MAF connection while the car was running (the car then ran like a beaten mule) only to find out this should not be done on cars with my type of MAF unless you want the cog of death to appear. (I feel this info should be stickied)

Thread about MAF Disconnect:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1109916&highlight=
Google Drive .CSV Log with Freeway speed.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7lrxrxNyskCRnhYLWEwTVpKQWc/view?usp=sharing

 

These engines idle at 700 in park or neutral and 600 in Drive with no A/C on.

As for the Cog of Death, not a problem, it happens with the 5 wire MAF's and impacts the electronic throttle control. I think it will limit the throttle travel and a few other things. Cog of Death should clear once the MAF is reconnected.

Assuming, the IAT is not too high, if the engine run much better with the MAF disconnected, this means the MAF is causing the engine to run Lean.

I know we are not made of money, but a used MAF is just that. You have no idea if it is better or worse than your original. Many are Asian counterfeits and you pull you hair out thinking the MAF it fine, when if fact it is the problem all along.

Check Siemens/VDO MAF pricing on www.oembimmerparts.com, I think this is the cheapest real MAF on the market.

You can use www.realoem.com to confirm the proper MAF number before ordering. DO NOT buy a Bremi MAF, you will be sorry.

The MAF is the single most sensitive and important sensor in the fuel management system. Cleaning a MAF is pretty much a waste of time. If the MAF is "over reporting" which I think it may be, then cleaning will have NO effect on it.

I will try to look at Logs later.

 

To be honest, it wouldn't surprise me if it is the MAF. It's the only part on my list I haven't replaced with new Genuine BMW or new OEM. Deductive reasoning and from reading your replies and other threads its seam reasonable at this point.

 

Update

Update

I decided to look for my original MAF & found it. I had keep it in an OEM box for some coolant part. Box fit perfect for it. Installed it last night cleared the code; and while the idle didn't become the buttery smooth BMW balance a coin on it's side smooth, it has become better and Throttle response seems to have improved as well. No SES light this morning either during start up. I think the initial shake may be from GUIBO, Transmission Mounts and/or Motor Mounts. I can hear the VANOS a bit more clearly now and after 174k+ miles most likely needs new seals etc.
I think maybe jumping the gun on replacing the MAF so early in the game is what thew me off. I had no hard data aside from some lean codes, rough idle and P0421/P0420. So I went to task on the Jofj top twenty. What I believe happened was that there where so many underlying issues at the time, replacing a "good" MAF with an unknown fouled one from salvage made little to no difference in over all performance, and thus my thinking was that the MAF had no effect on the codes when it had then actually added to the problem, or did at sometime between now and then. After OBDFusion, things became a bit clearer. I haven't used the Actron Pocket Scanner since for obvious reasons.
If any codes return I'll post it along with freeze frame data. Either way I will purchase a new MAF due to the age and milage of the original I reinstalled last night. Fingers crossed.

 

Since you have OBDFusion, drive the car for about 4-5 days and then capture a warm idle and steady cruise Log.

This way we can see what changes occurred.

You may not need a new MAF at this point, but at least we will have a different set of data points with the current MAF to compare against.

 

CEL came back..

Went to get a warm idle log by noticed my Thermostat was reading only 85c-87c via OBC and OBDFusion. This was after my highway commute which is roughly 20 miles. I would imagine the temp should read at least 90c+ by then. I'm wondering if I now also have a soft failing Thermostat and if that has anything to do with a misfire. This Thermostat has about 20k-30k miles on it. I think it's a Wahler was replaced in AUG of 2014. According to the logs previously posted engine temperature looked ok. Will do highway and warm idle logs after work tonight.

Edit: Confirmed Whaler Thermostat.
Edit 2: Currently reading this thread:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

 

Do me a favor and check to see if your OBDFusion program is up to date. It should not duplicate Fuel Trim info in the Freeze Frame data capture.

These engines should run 96C pretty consistently. I doubt the misfires are caused by a soft thermostat because the engine is cold when the misfiring is occuring.

Finally have the Diagnostic Report. I wanted to see if any errors are showing up for Mode $05 & Mode $06 so overall things look pretty good.

I am starting to think there is a Lean condition, either fuel pump (which we cannot easily verify or cost effectively replaced), a degraded MAF and/or some vacuum leaks that would really only be impacting the Idle and will not play into the highway cruise values as much.

I believe?? that some of the BMW software like INPA or maybe BMW Scanner 1.4.0 may have some way to monitor the Fuel Pump for errors, I believe increased or decreased current consumption and/or pump RPM??

As for the misfire. I would pull the plug from the cylinder and inspect it closely. There may be an engine mechanical problem like a burned exhaust valve, but in the short term you need to make sure the spark plug and coil are not contributors. You could move the spark plug and coil to cylinder #1 and rule both of these out as contributors to the misfire.

Other than a fuel pump problem that is not going to be resolved, clear codes, drive the car for 25-30 miles on the highway after a cold star to see if you can get the Catalyst Monitor to toggle.

You could try a quality Siemens/VDO replacement MAF from a reliable supplier, but you are looking at $250-$300 and it may or may not correct the Lean problem. But this is far better than spending $7000 for a new fuel tank/pump assembly!

 

OBDFusion is up to date. iOS version 3.3.0 (We have Mazda and Ford updates available.)
Thermostat got up to 96c later after a solid drive. I suppose my work commute isn't long enough for the temp to rise to full operating temp.

So Ive been thinking (aside from what I posted on glhx's thread about his P0304 after o2 sensor change and the possibility of faulty sensor batches) about all the places a Vacuum leak could be, and one that springs to mind after having completed a smoke test last Thursday is the Exhaust Heat Shield. The Shield over the Bank 2 Manifold used to vibrate something fierce. One day I reached in and pulled it out like a loose baby tooth. it was really that easy. I would imagine that could cause a leak, but I'm not sure how to test it. Another I've read about is the Fuel Door Actuator Lock. I've read it runs on a vacuum an thats what engages the lock for the Fuel Door, but how often is that the case..? I suppose I can lay the hammer down and yank out the Intake Manifold to see whats going on with the Gasket or if the hose connection from the Intake Manifold to the Brake Booster Suction Pump is cracked? (PN 11617503621) ICV Grommet... All the usual suspect, really. If there truly is a vacuum leak someplace, it must be very small indeed.

As far as the Fuel Pump, it was new March of 2014 and is a Continental make. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After 2 years ownership I see Continental/VDO, Siemens/VDO in combinations and don't know whats going on there. Anyway Continental/VDO is the one I've got.
https://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-Fuel-Pump-Assembly-OEM-p/16146766942.htm
Any other Fuel related items I could have a look before an expensive shot in the dark? Fuel pressure test etc.? Fuel Filter was also replaced July of 2014.

I have already swapped Coils & replaced all my Spark Plugs with BKR6EQUP6 before this thread was started. I exchanged Coil #4 with #3 still the P0304 returned. May just go ahead and spring for the new MAF as the installed one is currently the original.. Perhaps you'll notice something different with it instead of the other MAF in the previous .CSV files.
Google Drive link to Warm Idle .CSV Log with car's original MAF:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7lrxrxNyskCV1NyVXYwbXdmQk0
Google Drive link to Warm Highway Speed .CSV Log with car's original MAF :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7lrxrxNyskCNmhRUkY3bk5RZmM/view?usp=sharing

 

Having similar problems with #4 misfire after replacing bank 2 sensor 1. I'll be watching this closely

 

Sorry, massive multitasking fail on my part with post #13 above! :ben:

This is what I get for having WAY too many tabs open, trying to do too many things at once and supporting so many members at the same time.

Post #13 was not meant for this thread.

Anyway, glad you were polite enough to just see through the confusion.

I will regroup later on and try to get back on track.

 

No worries, sir.

 

Now getting P0420 & P0430 at the same time in addition to the P0304 which I have not cleared since post #12. I'm going to swap o2 sensor connections tomorrow to see if that helps. Many threads about P0420 and P0430 being triggered at the same time state Cats would be the last thing on the list, and that it may be a Gas Cap which I also bought new in November 2014. It has a blue gasket instead of the green one. Going to do this on a cold start as well. The interesting thing is that the Gas Cap's P/N 16116759042 can't be found by realoem. It's #12 in the diagram, but is not on the part number list. I bought it from ECStuning. I'm going to spray some WD40 around the Gas Cap Gasket to see if the seal isn't getting tight enough; and come to think of it, I can't recall if I've been hearing any pressure getting released when I unscrew it.
I'll update.

Link to ECStuning:
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325i-M54_2.5L/ES1900543/

Link to realoem:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ET37-USA-10-2004-E46-BMW-325i&diagId=16_0372

 

I can see why you may be getting P0420/P0430 based on what I am seeing with the Post-Cat O2 sensor behavior.

What I do not understand is WHY people randomly swap O2 sensor connections? There is a VERY simple way to verify 100% if the O2 sensor connections are correct and it only involve unplugging one of the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors!!!! If you are interested in doing the verification the proper way, just ask.

Gas cap has nothing to with your problems. Do not spray WD40 on the seal, not needed.

Some of the BMW seal colors are different for a reason. Green usually means a seal that was a replacement part that has a separate part number, blue often is the color of the seal that was included with a replacement part?? Or something like this, not sure it is 100% true all the time, but I have been told by some of the better BMW Parts Counter guys something about the seal color on some of the parts.

Who knows, maybe a urban myth all together?

 

Absolutely want to know the procedure for the o2 connectors.

 

Trace each O2 sensor wire and label the pigtail near the connector, B1-S1, B1-S2, B2-S1, B2-S2.

Then use OBDII tool to monitor ALL O2 sensors at the same time. Easiest is to set up 4 gauges on a Dashboard page, but there can be other options.

Disconnect a single O2 sensor, start the engine and see what O2 sensor stays at 0.45 Volts and has no activity and/or triggers a code. Note the O2 number and see if it matches the number on the O2 sensor pigtail. Label the engine bay harness at the connector with the proper sensor number so in the future there will no confusion.

In theory, you really only need to disconnect and test for one Pre-cat and one Post-cat sensor to verify the sensor wiring, but you could unplug each sensor one at a time and verify the connections are correct.

When you are all complete, you should have each engine bay connector and each O2 sensor connector labeled and you will never have mixed up wiring when working on the car if you pay attention to the labels.

 

Trace each O2 sensor wire and label the pigtail near the connector, B1-S1, B1-S2, B2-S1, B2-S2.



Then use OBDII tool to monitor ALL O2 sensors at the same time. Easiest is to set up 4 gauges on a Dashboard page, but there can be other options.



Disconnect a single O2 sensor, start the engine and see what O2 sensor stays at 0.45 Volts and has no activity and/or triggers a code. Note the O2 number and see if it matches the number on the O2 sensor pigtail. Label the engine bay harness at the connector with the proper sensor number so in the future there will no confusion.



In theory, you really only need to disconnect and test for one Pre-cat and one Post-cat sensor to verify the sensor wiring, but you could unplug each sensor one at a time and verify the connections are correct.



When you are all complete, you should have each engine bay connector and each O2 sensor connector labeled and you will never have mixed up wiring when working on the car if you pay attention to the labels.

Getting ready to test the o2 sensor routing and another smoke test. I've got one more cigar so why not! Let me know when you've read the .CSV data.

 

P0304 Coil Packs & other troubleshooting

No voltage to either B1S1 or B2S1!

Edit: car runs the same with either one or both unplugged.

 

The reason your are not seeing any Voltage for your Pre-cat O2 sensors is because your car is a 2005 with Wideband O2 sensors.

Unfortunately I use the "generic" reference of Bank 1, Sensor 1 and Bank 2, Sensor 2, which is correct, but you need to set up the Pre-cat O2 sensor gauges on the Dashboard differently.

You need to delete the current Pre-Cat O2 sensor gauges and pick these gauge options:

PID SAE 0x34 - O2 sensor lambda wide range (current probe) (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
PID SAE 0x38 - O2 sensor lambda wide range (current probe) (Bank 2, Sensor 1)

Wideband O2 sensor Voltage should hover around 1.0 Volt or so when the engine is idling.

 

I was able to get the Lambda readings to show up in OBDFusion after reading your post. Unfortunately this was after I had buttoned up the car again. I'll follow the method in post #21 tomorrow as it is my next day off. I'll also acquire a fuel pressure gauge and check the injectors and look for anything odd on the new spark plugs.
Which pins in the connector of the Injectors Wiring Harness do I use to see if I'm getting voltage to the Injector itself in case there is a short in the wire, I'll also check for resistance on that injector, and what is the proper way to test compression on the 2005 model? Some say to hold the gas pedal down some say that because it has no cable & that I need to remove the DISA to get air into the intake.
Also came across this video. His Coils look identical in ware as to mine (I thing mine actually look worse) and brings up some interesting points. Wondering what your thoughts are.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79EfNe_K8ZQ

 

Basically you want all air into the cylinder you can get.
All spark plugs out. Throttle wide open.....maybe disa as well but I doubt it. Can't remember if disa is in direct intake path. Either way. Whatever it takes to max air in cylinder. Should get 150-170 psi

However. If you test 6 cylinders and don't take anything out but the plug. One at a time
You should get consistent readings.

For instance. The one I just did.......I took out one plug.....got 80psi
Put plug back and checked second one.....and so on.
So each cylinder had the same test. Throttle was closed.
Not correct way.

What the 80 psi told me was that it was probably good......because all 6 were consistent.
If I got a 50psi on cylinder 3 and the rest of the cylinders were 80psi.

3 has a problem. And I go in and do a correct test.

I did this the other day. I had problems so I felt a thorough test was in order.

My problem was an injector coil gone bad.
I tested resistance and it was out of spec.

I'll go back through and look at your posts to see what's going on. My car was running lean in bank 2 with a cylinder 4 misfire.
Nothing else. And I had no lean codes.....the fuel trims told me

It wasn't getting gas to that cylinder.

 

Reading your post.
Theory.......what if at cold start you have a broken seal on the intake. Letting extra air in
When the car warms up the seal expands and seals a little better.
This would let excess air into the cylinder and make it run lean. Maybe carefully spray squirts of carb cleaner on the #4 intake port.

If cylinder 4 is misfiring it means it's not getting air, fuel, gas, or time

Check spark....move coils.....move plugs....see if problem follows. You did that and the problem didn't follow
Check compression....if compression is good. It means valves are sealed for compression....it means air is coming in to the cylinder through the intake valve as well. So you should rule out air....maybe.....don't rule out anything yet.

Then check fuel.....resistance test on injectors.....ohm them out. They should be close. Mine were identical ohmed on all injectors.
A variation on cylinder 4 might show injector coil bad.

Then.....move the injector and see if problem follows.

Look at injector o ring.....another place vacuum can get in unmetered.

Your car is probably in time and time is fine......

Those 4 things make a car run.

Your fuel trims are out of spec on the short side..
+7 on bank one and +10 on bank 2

Meaning extra air in the system or lack of gas.
With mine.....my fuel injecto wasn't firing at all on cylinder 4. Cylinder 4 became a big air pump and caused a super lean mixture. Lack of gas was my problem.

A weak injector, weak fuel pump, clogged fuel system could cause lean on both banks.
Maf sensor not reading correctly could misinform computer and be reading the air wrong.
However.......maf runs the whole show.....and your problem is one cylinder code. Let's deal with that 1 code and go from there

Excess air unmetered getting into the system.....brake booster, intake manifold seals, disa, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil seals, injector ports, cracked intake or valve cover etc....her ever excess unmetered air can get in..

Burned valve.....worn valve not sealing can cause lack of compression. If you don't have compression it won't fire. You need at least 100psi on a complete test. Remember the tests usually just need to be consistent psi on all cylinders.

You problem confuses me because your trims are lean but,only one cylinder is misfiring. Or you have multiple problems.








Let's focus on cylinder 4.....not electronics this time. Just the basics.....electronics meaning sensors.
Electronics cause problems with all cylinders typically. You have 1 cylinder problem.

Complete compression test.....spark plugs out and intake open to get air.
Ohm injector for resistance
Trade injector with other cylinder to see if problem follows.
Trade plug
Trade coil pack
Spray carb cleaner at intake port #4 short bursts....1 squirt
Let's go with basics in a methodical way.....start over

Autozone will rent you any gauge you need
Fuel pressure.....kit.....make sure it has the piece you need to connects to the car. Some lost it
Vacuum tester.....to check booster or diaphragms
Compression tester
.............noid lights...........
Spark tester......runs inline with the system.....long enough to reach into ignition coil boot.
Connects spark plug....it's like an inline test light for spark plugs. There's several designs...you can only use 1 of them....autozone has it.

931-252-1650 text me if you need help with any of this. I'm not here as much lately due to life

 

Thank you so much! Much of this will have to wait for Thursday my next day off, but I can do some of this in the parking garage after I get out of work at night until then. It was raining all day yesterday, and everyone in town bought all the gas because of the Alabama pipeline bust so I had to locate a station. Found one at midnight and reluctantly filled it with 87.
I'll update.

 

Found this procedure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD95q-JRSXE

 

Man.....your in Nashville??????
I'm in Nashville. I'll just come and look at the car in person. You said gas gone all over town as well as raining yesterday....So I was thinking. That sounds like here.
I was there all day today at the frist and lane motor museum. I live in Murfreesboro. I can help you with this much faster in person and see if we can knock this out quick.

Your maf sensor is also the same as a Kia Optima which is much cheaper

 

All this sounds great. I'm definitely in Nashville & always have Thursday and Saturday off from work. I'll text you my info. I appreciate this more than you know & I'm ready to learn. OBDFusion seems to disable some set up features when the App is communicating with the car so you might try looking for specific Selected PIDs to enable when you're disconnected if you haven't already.

From the home screen go to:
Settings>Log Setup>Select PIDs>SAE PIDs


Do this while disconnected. You should see a list that's a mile long.

As for the MAF: I thought that only pertains to earlier models of the e46 though 2002? Mine is a 2005.

 

glhx, have Delineation show you how to use OBDFusion!

He can show you that it WILL read the O2 sensor data.

You seem to have ADHD when it comes to OBDFusion and following directions. Maybe too many paint fumes from painting the car! :lmao:

BTW, do not get too wrapped around the axle chasing ghosts. Maybe there is a mechanical problem, but the BASICS need to be covered first.

Good luck.

 

I've looked pretty closely at a lot of stuff in fusion. I hope he can clear this up. Some of the stuff we've gone over I haven't taken the time yet to mess with. I'll do that today now that the kids gone and I've got some time. She's high energy and doesn't give me a second to work on anything at home except Legos. I do have add.....channel flip all the time***55357;***56899;***55357;***56860;
I will look more into it today. It's just not working....it's probably something I'm doing but no different than setting up any of the other pids. All of them work except o2.....and that's for all my cars. I set pids for every o2 option on that long list and got nothing.
One thing about these apps......they are released with no support or directions. Torque pro is worse and less intuitive.
I'd rather use ncs expert which is very un intuitive but has support. Well get it fixed soon