Did you remember that some of the ofh screws are different lengths. If you get the wrong ones in the wrong holes, it won't be clamping down the cover. Can you see where the leak is coming from? Check realoem.com to see where each screw should go (in case that's the issue).

 

yeah, I did a diagram for the screws. I'm sure I'm wearing it right. I used Erling brand oem gasket. should I use rtv ?

 

should I use rtv ?

NO

Curil T2

https://www.elring.com/fileadmin/Dateiablage_DE/2Service/Datenblaetter/Technische_Dichtmassen/Curil_T2/Curil_T2_TDB_2020_EN.pdf

 

These things do not leak for no reason. Have you checked to make sure BOTH surfaces are dead flat, with no nicks or other damage that could cause a leak? Did you tighten the bolts in the correct order, and IN STAGES? Doing it wrong, you can over-compress the gasket on one side, and leak it under-compressed on the other.

Many here report problems with non-OEM gaskets. I am personally skeptical, but it is certainly worth a try to replace using a genuine BMW gasket.

Bottom line - there IS a reason for this, and you NEED to find it, rather than just blindly replacing the gasket.

 

Working from a DIY, I squeezed it as 1-6-2-5-3-4 in order. I didn't squeeze too hard because the body was aluminum.

 

Also to add, mine dripped for a week or some after replacing OFHG. I cleaned waffle to best of ability but apparently a number of surfaces hold oil. If not more than dripping, give it a week or two to insure it's not just residual. GL

 

The first time I did mine it leaked. Much worse than the original. I followed advice and treated the 6 bolts as a group of 6 from a cross torquing perspective. The state of the new gasket lead me to believe that the bolt next to the leak was not tight enough even though I had used a torque wrench set to the correct torque.It occurred to me that the housing might be warped.

So the second time I treated the top 4 bolts as a group of 4 and torqued them up full first. They are the ones that compress the gasket. They are important. I then did the bottom 2. All they do is support the alternator. It has been fine since. So that's what I recommend. No RTV.

 

The problem with RTV is that most use too much. Then what is left inside gets into the check valve and lifter feed bores.

We now undertorque by 1Nm, owing to all the block threads stripping of late.

 

i haven't been able to get into the car for two weeks .there is a gap, as shown in the picture. and it's leaking oil. i'm tired of disassembling it again and again. What can I do? should I use rtv? is it another brand of gasket? please help. (the gasket is the new elring brand )

 

The gap between the side of the gasket and the housing has nothing to do with leaking. As long as the gasket mating surface is clean, and the gasket is compressed by the housing then it should not leak, regardless if there is gap at its side.

 

That OFH looks like it’s seen better days. Lay it down on a sheet of glass and see where the gap is. No RTV as it’ll migrate into the oil and potentially block small oil passages. Elring makes fine gaskets. In the end you may have to get a replacement housing from a junk yard or from FCPEURO.

 

Touring rebuild with interior swap

Due to a series of events I now have 3 more E46s in addition to my 03 330cic: 2002 325ci convertible - black with two tone tan interior 2002 330ci convertible - black on black 2003 325i touring - Stahlblau with grey The first was running but interior soaking wet and rear seat covered in mildew...

www.e46fanatics.com

Start at post # 140
Sand it flat.

 

The areas circled in RED are "pinch points" to hold the profile gasket in place when you turn the housing over, so the gasket doesn't fall out. It may be pinched, but as long as it sticks above the surface.
I suspect your base is NOT flat.

 

It it is truly flat, then you have a block that is not flat, or the leak is from somewhere else.
Where did you buy the gasket from? Is it genuine Elring or a fake?

Original and Imitation - ElringKlinger AG

www.elring.com

 

The point is, it may not be a real Elring brand gasket. Maybe time to get one from BMW.
If you do try the emery paper, be sure to clean the housing thoroughly after. You can use a piece of glass as well.

 

I would not use any gasket paper or material in/on a surface such as that. The sealing area there is VERY different. Hence the term "Profile Gasket". The paper will fold into the void channel. Either now, or later when the seal shrinks/hardens.

I've cut/made more custom paper gaskets than I care to think about. Both mating surfaces must be flat in order for a paper gasket to work.

I think he needs to true the mating surface with Emory cloth.

Or there's something else going on.

 

i know I've brought this up before, and I'm sorry. but really help me. No matter what I do, the leak continues. The last time I tried rtv, it didn't happen. There is no new one here, and the use of ofhgler is even worse. i took it to bmw service, but they don't do it because the car is old. Now there are only drops leaking from the middle right screw. the one I showed in the picture . only you can help me. otherwise, this car can not be used. (((

 

I asked you if it was flat. You said you looked at it with a straight edge.
I suggested sanding with Emory cloth to be sure.
I don't think you did.

One of three things is happening;
1) There's a crack between sections.
2) The housing is NOT flat.
3) The block is bad.

I suggested that you sand the mating surface.
I digress.

 

latest status. fresh out of the oven.

 

latest status. fresh out of the oven.

The machined surface looks very nice, but it's useless if the groove channel is dirty. The bottom of the groove is the sealing surface, not the new machined surface. Should use Qtip and clean the groove to spotless.

 

leaked again. I could not do it. I don't understand why he's running.

 

Guys, I found the problem. There is a crack in the rear inlet of the Vanos hose. the part where the screw is screwed. I was able to find it with the camera. I'm going to weld and try now, or it will change.

 

Likely because someone either overtightened the bolt and/or needed to because they did not replace the crush washers?

 

Guys, I solved the problem. There was a crack in the thread of the Vanos hose. The crack was welded, screwed and retightened with RTV and copper washers. I did a pressure test before reinstalling. now smooth and dry, no leakage. I have worked on this subject so much that I am now a professional. I was mentally exhausted doing this. I'm tired of saying here or here.
my recommendations. If there is a leak, the first thing you should look for is the temperature sensors and the vanos hose inlet. Second, is the surface smooth? Other than these, there is no other reason to leak. The oil leak here is pretty deceiving. It is necessary to be absolutely sure of the leak area. I used a camera for this.
First of all, I think the original ofh production is faulty. Because the seal grooves are too deep, they cannot be fully compressed. secondly, when the return valve is plastic it wears out. it would be easier if this was an e36 or e90.
my ofh had a lot of trouble as it was repaired by a newbie before. The first surface is slightly curved. Even 0.05 mm of curvature is effective, as the grooves I mentioned earlier are deep. second, holes 1 and 4 weren't very good. I actually solved this with a long m8 8x125. Then a friend of mine who makes helicoil helped me. We made Helicoil because it is stronger. then the surface was smoothed on the machine. plugged in and now dry. I couldn't find a new one so I tried to fix it. If something like this happens to you, replace it with a new one, it will be easier. Thank you everyone for your help. If you have anything to ask, I'm always here. Sorry for the translation mistakes