Congrats on not bricking your DME. I think your post might be useful for those who change their headers and want to shut off the CEL. (You know some will take shortcuts and may brick it though?) You can do this in Wisconsin as there is nothing in your state laws that prohibits tampering with emissions systems - not the case for everybody though (me included).

Any other noticeable changes with the EU2 tune? I'm interested in the DME cooling setpoint values that trigger DME requests such as the fan speed calc - Doesn't this tune require the use of other EU specific parts such as the lower temp t-stat used on Euro models?

 

Any other noticeable changes with the EU2 tune? I'm interested in the DME cooling setpoint values that trigger DME requests such as the fan speed calc - Doesn't this tune require the use of other EU specific parts such as the lower temp t-stat used on Euro models?

My first impression is that the car has a stronger power band. That may or may not be placebo effect in the butt dyno. Also I've never heard of using a lower temp t-stat, do you have any info on it?

 

Very nice write-up! I would mention that clearing adaptations is even easier in PA Soft (than INPA).

 

Ah, yes! I sold my PA soft stuff and wish I hadn't, it's so much more intuitive for the simple things!

 

Nice write up. Glad it went well for you.

 

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=800308&page=3

Different temp t-stats are sold for e46's - even over here although the lower temp t-stats are predominant in EU. I have a Vierol that mechanically opens at 88C. In North America they are not so common but ECS and others offer them for the M3 and other tuned vehicles. Zionsville has one for the Non-M e46. If you read the FA on e46's there are a few items that differentiate various e46's Obviously the model but other items such as Destination, Climate version, Transmission type etc. US destined cars are designed to run hotter to meet EPA requirements and burn off harmful emissions. The engine is coded to run hotter with a higher temp t-stat and corresponding DME values. I only came across this looking at dumps while researching fan activation parameters. The DME has set points for activating some of the logic driven functions such as fan speed request ratio, opening and closing of the map controlled t-stat. I have noted that the fan speed request setpoints for the electric fan are not the same for all models. For example the M3 has different trigger levels for certain input values than my 330. Logic would indicate that this would be the same on a vehicle designed to operate cooler. It is one of the reasons I believe the temp gauge is buffered to 40C - to accommodate all the different models and DME set points that may be hardcoded to the vehicle when it is built.

The DME decisions use logic formulas to determine functions and requests. I would fill this page and then some just listing all of the variables that are used in decisions. In layman terms the formula doesn't change but the result might if the values are different. The values used are determined by INPUT to the DME from all the various systems the actions taken by the DME are the OUPUT.

For example the coolant temperature used by the MS43 DME in calculation (INPUT) is called TCO_MES. The DME reads this and stores it in RAM - this value is used in hundreds of resultant logic decisions (if = to or > than AND/OR etc.) If you lowered the TCO_MES then many of those decisions (logic gates) would have different OUPUT (results)

 

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=800308&page=3

Different temp t-stats are sold for e46's - even over here although the lower temp t-stats are predominant in EU. I have a Vierol that mechanically opens at 88C. In North America they are not so common but ECS and others offer them for the M3 and other tuned vehicles. Zionsville has one for the Non-M e46. If you read the FA on e46's there are a few items that differentiate various e46's Obviously the model but other items such as Destination, Climate version, Transmission type etc. US destined cars are designed to run hotter to meet EPA requirements and burn off harmful emissions. The engine is coded to run hotter with a higher temp t-stat and corresponding DME values. I only came across this looking at dumps while researching fan activation parameters. The DME has set points for activating some of the logic driven functions such as fan speed request ratio, opening and closing of the map controlled t-stat. I have noted that the fan speed request setpoints for the electric fan are not the same for all models. For example the M3 has different trigger levels for certain input values than my 330. Logic would indicate that this would be the same on a vehicle designed to operate cooler. It is one of the reasons I believe the temp gauge is buffered to 40C - to accommodate all the different models and DME set points that may be hardcoded to the vehicle when it is built.

Well you learn something everyday. That blows my mind a little bit. I thought that it would simply be controlled by the computer in the car.

I do know that TerraPhantm posted some coding to make the temp gauge in car more accurate.

 

Yea, I'm blaming you now for me reading about thermostats over lunch lol!!!

 

I'm confused on which daten file(s) will work.

I've got an '01 325i that I'd like to flash with EU2. I found links for 46.3 and 53.3 datens but most of the writeups mention 47.

Do I need a specific version?

 

Daten v41 or higher is fine. The later (higher numbered) versions have no updates for E46.

Do you know the exact DME assembly number for this EU2 firmware you want to flash in?

You can look it up here:
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E...5i-M54/L-N/jan2001/browse/engine_electrical_system/programmed_dme_control_unit/

 

I really need to do this. I have a 05 330i but I'm afraid of messing something up. Would you mind telling us from step one till finish of how to do it.

Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk

 

ISO E46 DME Flash in Wisconsin

I realize this is an old thread, but can anyone help me/ give me advice on where I can get my DME flashed? I am swapping a 2001 330ci engine into my 2002 325i and keeping the harness/ DME from the 325i in it. I am located near Stevens point, Wisconsin. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but can anyone help me/ give me advice on where I can get my DME flashed? I am swapping a 2001 330ci engine into my 2002 325i and keeping the harness/ DME from the 325i in it. I am located near Stevens point, Wisconsin. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Try posting this request in your regional forum.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/forumdisplay.php?f=50

Hopefully someone near you has WinKFP set up for flashing.

You need to find the correct DME flash part number so they specify that when flashing your DME. Easiest way is to look it up on bmwfans.info for the same production date 330i.

 

What is this nonsense about having the car hooked up to a battery charger? This was by far the most difficult question for me to answer. Some people have done this flash without a battery charger, but it is not recommended as you risk "bricking" your DME. Many forums were saying you are supposed to keep the voltage above 13V when doing the flash. This confused me greatly, as I've never seen a car that has more than 12.5-12.7 volts at rest, even on the charger. The conclusion I came to on this is that you need to keep the car at full voltage with minimal fluctuation, but the 13V+ stuff is misinformation. I hooked my car up to a 10A battery charger and ensured I was getting a steady 12.6V through the OBC and my flash went just fine. You can see how to access the OBC here.

As this is an older thread, I did not recall seeing it when it was originally posted otherwise I would have commented on the issue of a battery charger/supplemental power supply when flashing modules.

Not sure how the OP has never seen a car with more an 12.5-12.7 Volts while on a battery charger. If this is true, he has never seen or had a fully charged battery in his vehicle. In order to "charge" almost any battery the charging Voltage needs to be at least 1.0-1.5 Volt above the nominal battery Voltage.

Now maybe all the OP did was use the Hidden OBC Voltmeter to monitor the vehicle Voltage, which typically is a bit lower than what would be presented to the battery with an external power source due to in vehicle Voltage drop to the OBC and the load on the battery while the ignition is on. But just because he has never seen a properly charged battery and a typical battery charging curve does not mean what is stated is correct.

I would disagree that the 13 Volt+ is misinformation, it may not be readily obtainable with anything less than a 20 Amp external power source, but I prefer the vehicle Voltage to be at least 13 Volts when I am flashing modules. Is this a required, no, but it does give some additional safety margin as "fully charged" vehicle battery should have a terminal Voltage of 12.6 Volts, so asking for 13.0 Volts is only 0.4 Volts more, not much!

As a reference, below is a graph so people can see how a battery charger behaves on a battery that is low on charge. This is my E70 X5 which has been sitting for a while and has been used for too many short trips. I often put a "maintenance" charge on this vehicle because there is a LOT of electrical demand within the vehicle. It happens to have a 240 Amp alternator for a REASON!!

Anyway, I used my old school 6 Amp non smart battery charger on the vehicle for this test. If you look at the graph, it took approximately 8 minutes from the time the charger was turned on until the Voltage indicated 13.0 Volt. The total graph window is just slightly over 3 hours. The charger seemed to only provide 5 Amps maximum based on the meter on the charger, I did not use an external meter to verify the Amperage the charger was supplying to the battery.

You can also see with the trend line the old school charger shows a very linear curve which means the battery is most likely good, but just low on charge.

The smaller transients are probably different systems in the vehicle shutting down, I know I have sat in this vehicle for extended periods and there are different system that shut down over the period of a few hours.

If I would have had the Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) for flashing purposes, even with me manually shutting of lights, radio and HVAC, there still would be a considerable load on the battery. This vehicle has factory Angle Eyes that I need to unplug or code off to reduce the load. There are plenty of other modules in the vehicle that draw power as well.

A larger battery charger than 6 Amps would be recommended for most cars, but in the event you do not have a larger battery charger, put the battery on charge overnight to top off the battery before any flash work. The make sure the charger stays connected to the vehicle while flashing modules. The worst situation to be in during a module flash is if you had a battery with a bad or weak cell that avalanches midway though the flash and the vehicle Voltage takes a dip. Hopefully a supplemental power source will reduce or eliminate this possible scenaro.

So do not be foolish, get a secondary power source connected to the vehicle before any flash work is to proceed. Also charge the battery overnight before any flash work.

 

Will this work for X5?
It's also M54 engine with MS43 dme

 

Yes it can be done. PM me the last 7 digits of your VIN and I'll send you the correct ZUSB#.