5 g/s is too high. Forget about most of what you have found on the Interwebs, as I recall someone once told me EVERYTHING on the Interwebs is correct an 100% true, for some reason I kind of doubt this.

There are many variables as to what the baseline MAF reading should be and also under what conditions the measurement is obtained. Most of these engines have a NO LOAD Warm Idle MAF reading of between 3.6-4.2 g/s. After looking at the YouTube video you posted, note that the Engine Idle was 850-900 RPM when he was was taking the readings but also note the Calculated Engine Load at 22% which is double what the value should be, so either the car was in "Drive" and/or the MAF is reading too high at idle because the Calculated Engine Load should be around 10% with a proper MAF value in Park/Neutral at warm idle. The YouTube star many have paid close to $200 for a counterfeit MAF and he may not even realize it!!!

But under many circumstances the MAF is ruled a problem and under many circumstances the MAF is replaced with a cheap or counterfeit Asian MAF from eBay, Amazon, the local auto parts store of even ending up with a counterfeit MAF from a name brand supplier. The ONLY MAF that should go on these cars is a Siemens/VDO MAF from a reliable source like FCPEuro, OEMBimmerParts, ECSTuning or a small handful of other sources. Even these may not guarantee 100% non counterfeit parts, but they have a good history of having genuine products.

But before you jump all over the MAF as the source of your problems, you need to obtain more data. Warm idle Fuel Trim and MAF readings. Freeze Frame data and if need be generate Log info for review.

If you have not seen and read this link, you need to read the first post at least 3 times before you do anything: Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

You also should get the OBDFusion App as it has all the capabilities that are needed to resolve most driveability problems. One of the most cost effective Apps available.

If you need more info, search my user name and the term OBDFusion, you will find more than you care to.

 

No load in Park or Neutral.

Also need to check when the engine is fully warmed up because of cold start increased idle and VANOS shifting valve timing.

 

YOU MUST check the box to Auto Save Diagnostic Report. Can be found Settings, General, all the way to the bottom of the display Diagnostics, Auto Store Diagnostic Report, make sure to "check" the box.

FYI: on my iPad, it appears under Settings, Preferences, General, Auto Store Diagnostic Reports.

 

iProducts have a different Menu structure. I have not had time to document the iPad Menus, but in general the menus are similar and people should be able to find these features.

 

Hey, so I ended up replacing the CCV on the car. I have not experienced any codes since then, and it has been over a week. I'm hoping this has solved the issue.

 

If you want to know what the DME thinks it should be getting, unplug the MAF and see what reported value is. The calculated value should be pretty close to what the MAF actually reads in ideal conditions.

 

I compared a 20-year-old original Siemens MAF with recently produced VDO, Hella, and Delphi MAFs under identical conditions. Hella turned out to be garbage, and I tested two VDO units, both showing high readings of around 16 kg/h during hot idle. On the other hand, the Delphi unit provided a normal reading of about 14.4 kg/h. It seems that modern VDO MAFs have issues with sensor sensitivity or calibration.