E46 Fanatics Forum banner

Looking for fixed camber plates

15K views 50 replies 10 participants last post by  mjdarg  
#1 ·
Is Turner the only option? Unfortunately, the quoted 2.5-3deg is somewhat extreme for a daily driven car.
 
#5 ·
#13 ·
Yes, that's right.

Judging from the description, the one with adjustable mounting pins is for OEM suspension, is it not?

"Notice: IT'S FOR STOCK SPRINGS"

What does this mean?

And VIA PM you mentioned that these also offer caster adjustment. How is that?

I'm running coilovers and need some to get my alignment to spec.
The passenger side caster is out, and both of the front wheels' camber is out.
 
#14 ·
These are NOT the ones for coilovers. The ones I pictured are for stock OE springs including H&R, Eibach, Vogtland, Tein......and everything else that is designed like a stock spring.

I know they make a C/O option, let me look for it & I'll post up a link......in an hour or two.


Rob43
 
#18 ·
Hmmmm, I just did the "knocking" out the alignment pin and I got -1 degree on each side. Now I did use a smartphone app on my android phone to measure but the measurement does appear to be accurate and repeatable. Since it is so easy to do you might want to try it and see.

I've also read that using a dremel you can extended those slotted holes a little too (I think I remember 3/16 of an inch max).
 
#27 · (Edited)
I also ordered a set of Silver Project Camber/Caster Plates (stock type springs version) for my 330Ci about two (2) weeks ago, they just got here. They're being mated to my Bilstein Sports and H&R Race Springs, the H&R's gave me a fixed front camber setting of about negative 1.9, unfortunately this is a little aggressive for the street, but not aggressive enough for the track. These Silver Project camber plates will certainly fix that. Overall I'm happy with them, especially at $163 shipped. They'll probably get installed in about a week or two, I plan on setting them up in two (2) ways. The first setting will be for DD, so I'm planning on physically marking that setting with paint or a red Sharpe at about negative 1.5 camber. The second setting will be for any tracking, I'll mark that at about neg. 2.8 / 2.9 camber. This way once they're setup from the alignment, I'll be able to quickly make the desired switch from one camber setting to the other.


Good luck,
Rob43
 

Attachments

#32 ·
View attachment 624882 View attachment 624883 View attachment 624884 View attachment 624885

Just received these today $100 shipped . Will report back once installed .
Those may or may not fit depending on what setup you have, post up a link with an Exact part number to your current springs or coilovers.

Rob, those look like the two way, how much caster can you get a track alignment?
They certainly adjust caster too, but off the top I honestly don't remember how much they added....



Rob43
 
#40 ·
Rob43 I should of listened to you and brought the silver project camber plates . The ones for a $100 are garbage screwed my whole alignment up I had to get 7 wheel alignments . Then I came to the conclusion that the problem were the camber plates . So put back stock mounts ( problem solved ) but now steering is loose and I have serious bump steer .
 
#42 ·
There's nothing magical about the Camber/Caster plates I'm recommending, certainly if you spend $400 with the name brand companies you'll get even better quality. Remember that almost everything is a compromise when we're talking about all of the different parts that can be applied to our E46 chassis Bimmers. The trick is finding out where there's a good compromise between price & quality that will work well for you in your particular application.

Sometimes the cheapest price costs you more in the end, and sometimes the most expensive is overkill for the normal user.



Things to think about,
Rob43
 
#45 ·
Bump steer is the result of lowering too much.
Even with the wheels completely straight ? I thought bump steer was from too much negative camber .
Nope.

Bump steer is a result of the relationship between the control arm and the tie rod. They are not in the exact same plane. As the suspension compresses, the tie rod tugs on the upright, causing it to go out of alignment. You generally don't have much issue at stock height, but the more you lower a car, generally the worse it gets.

For some cars you can get a kit to fix bump steer that includes a longer ball joint so the tie rod is horizontal or closer to it when lowered.

Here is an excellent article on MotoIQ by my buddy Mike Kojima. You can trust Mike. He's an automotive engineer with qualifications few have, both with engineering for OEMs and well as engineering and building race cars.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArtic...ID/3608/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-Suspension-and-Handling--Bump-SteerToe-Steer.aspx