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Let's Talk about the DISA Pin

8.2K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  swordsman11868  
#1 ·
Hey gang,

Just in need for some more clarification as the resources that I am working with are really ambiguous. This concerns the DISA and the DISA pin. I removed it last year when replacing intake boot (upper) and then cleaning ICV. So I basically had the whole intake system apart save the manifold. Took it out last year, and the thing was solid and didn't spin. That was 10k miles ago, and now my car has 133k on it. (with a 5HP19 tranny!)

My DISA doesn't click, doesn't rattle, doesn't shake rattle and roll either for that matter. I just want to replace the O-ring, inspect things, and then also replace lower intake boot. But then I discovered about the DISA pin that falls out and can go into the engine.

Is this normal? What are the chances? It seems like it's only happened twice that I've read, and it seems that their DISA was completely garbage on removal. (clunked and rattled severely)

So let's talk about this dreaded pin. It's been postponing my project ever since I discovered it can fall out.

Please inspire me!

What causes it to fall out on removal? Seems like when the car is on it would fall in, rather than by removing it. Isn't it sealed in there?

Any info is greatly appreciated.
 
#8 ·
Suggest you read the first link below in my signature, entire section devoted to the DISA.

As for the pin, it is about 1/4" diameter and about 3/4" long, it goes in the end of the DISA. Pin usually will not fall out, just pull DISA an make sure pin is in the DISA and you are initially fine.

Suggest if you need a new DISA, which is highly likely if original, is to just purchase a new one, The GAS solution is a partial bandaid, it does not address the rubber diaphragm which lasts about 8-9 years tops and is the 2nd major failure point for the DISA.

New DISA is about $175 from www.bmwmercedesparts.com
 
#13 · (Edited)
I am the GAS customer. My DISA is rattling on 110k km and the kit fixed it. My pin stays in place but can be easily pulled out with my finger nails, suggesting a scary potential disaster. The replacement part is of much higher quality material. Machined aluminum flap and titanium screw. I feel it can last forever and the pin will be guaranteed to stay in place (well, the pin is replaced by the titanium screw as a one piece fit). Compare it to OEM plastics is like compare a swiss watch to a Casio watch.

The rubber diaphragm in my unit stays solid, even the rubber seal is still in good shape. I have no doubt it can last another 100k km. This suggests the diaphragm is much less failure prone, compared to the flap and the pin. Why? because the diapragm is a non moving part, while the flap, crank lever are moving part.

If you buy a new OEM DISA, it will have the same problem in another 100k km, but if you do not plan to hold your car that long it should be fine.

I admit I might have been brain washed by GAS though :) This is my personal experience.
 
#14 ·
Mechanics = Mechanicals.

Flap getting loose on center pin & drive rod or shaft. Simple test, remove DISA and follow info in my first link in my signature below. Flap should have spring tension, no slop, vacuum diaphragm should hold flap closed all but about 1/4", no noise what so ever when you shake the DISA firmly.

I do think people are getting a bit sold on the fact the the rubber diaphragm will never fail. The funny part is the rubber diaphragm is more predictable to fail than the mechanical parts on the DISA.

The rubber will be less of a mileage item and more of a time item. Again with the high under hood temps and the folds in the diaphragm, expect it to leak within 10 years at max, after 7-8 you are lucky.

How many people will be here worrying about their 15+ year old E46?? I would say the percentage will be pretty low, so 1 replacement DISA in the E46 ownership is not too bad. You will probably be replacing the CCV and hoses before your 2nd DISA and I think the CCV is more expensive!
 
#15 ·
The only times I've heard of a pin getting lost inside the manifold are when someone removed the disa. I don't recall looking at the pin when I removed mine years ago, but I do recall someone saying the pin can only fall out when you remove it...as otherwise it's so close to the wall of manifold that it can't just drop out.

Personally, I guess I'd say this is one of those things that you could easily replace when it fails and that the very act of preventative maintenance might be riskier than just letting it fail. Mine is probably original...I'll let you all know when it finally goes!
 
#16 ·
I had to replace my disa about two months ago... first thing after purchase at 90K. IT was making noise when pluged in and stopped when unpluged. Took out the unit thinking it was the flap but it wasnt... flap was still in good condition and with a good spring to it.
So it was the internals making the noise. CHanged it and now I wont worry about this crap!

I still have the old... is there anything i can do with this thing?

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Bimmer App
 
#19 ·
No one wants a shoddy DISA. Slice it up. Well mine hasn't made any noise, and I checked last year and it the flap and pin are good. DMAX has 12 years and still going and mine is 11 years. SO maybe I should wait till I get sufficient funds to buy this?
 
#20 ·
Sweetness, technically, I'd have 13 years on it...presuming it's original. No reason to replace it unless you're sure it's broken. The pin can't fall out when it's in. Also, buying stuff you don't need with money you don't have usually doesn't work out too well in the long run! :lmao:
 
#23 ·
I think in most instances if you remove the DISA and the flap is totally worn and wasted, the rear DISA pin can fall out, but if you are looking for it and know to expect this it is not a big deal. You will be looking for the pin and will make sure you retrieve it.

However, I also think there have been cases where the DISA basically self destructed and the flapper fell out of the DISA frame into the intake and the rear DISA pin also can fall out of the DISA frame into the intake. I do not believe the DISA pin has any kind of head like a nail, I believe it is a solid cylinder. Once the flap is out of the frame, the DISA pin is coming out as well.

If you are lucky the DISA pin stays pressed into the flap, but once the flap is dancing inside the intake, your time is limited.
 
#29 ·
Wow, nice photos! Did you only replace the O-ring? If so, what did you use to clean up the DISA flap? It looks brand new!

Makes me want to do my DISA. I'm sure my O-ring is shot. Looks like GAS website has some really good parts to R&R the DISA.

I have no issues with my idle right now but maybe it's a preventive measure?

-Daniel
 
#27 ·
I could not tell for sure on my spare DISA as the pin is still in the flap.

But you can see that the rear of the DISA frame where the pin rests is oval at this point. If you drive the car to the point the flap breaks loose, it can pull the pin with it, even with the nail type head if the rear frame of the DISA is worn badly the pin can come out.

Again, I would skip the GAS repair as if the rear frame hose is oval and the vacuum diaphragm is not part of this solution either.
 
#28 ·
Im really happy with all the great minds helping me, especially JFOJ resurrecting a thread that I never got an answer to. Money is tight, and I hear no DISA rattle, so I'll lay off until after I get some change to spend.