I think getting to it is the hardest part of the bushings. It should'nt be much more to do subframe bushings when you want diff bushings. I paid $850 to have my diff bushings done

 

Maybe the second place i called was about right....

 

I would say so, I wouldn't go cheap on a job like that


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Ugh...abd now i just got a p1093 code when i went out to my car on lunch break. Guess I'll be taking some logs to post on my way home tonight

 

The diff and diff bushings are very easy given three things:

- No rust
- Proper tools (especially for pressing the bushings in/out)
- Two people

The first shop is probably overly confident, the second shop is probably more realistic. I think kpeng has a DIY on his site with great pictures if you want to get some idea of what's involved.

 

Go to Evan614 for the tool. Awesome guy. Reasonable rental price. Yes two people definitely. Yes I did it. See build thread

 

Well i got some rust...not horrible, just some good surface rust. I Did my rtabs the other day with the mis tool and the impact gun was definitely necessary.

I don't have the specific pressing tool for any of the rear bushings, except the mis rtab tool. But If i did go at it myself i could probably figure something out. I'd Be able to figure out what i could better once i have the new bushings for size reference.

And i would most likely be doing it by myself(I'd i end up doing it), i could probably get a buddy to help some though.

What's Kpeng's site?

 

Installing the diff is definitely a two person job, and reinstalling the exhaust is much easier with two people. The big problem with rust is that if the rear diff bushing is seized, you may need to burn and/or chisel it out. I ended up buying the tools because I keep telling myself I'll get around to doing the job on my sedan too (lol), and even after one car it's still cheaper than paying a shop. The bushings are uncommon size and space is tight so yeah the tools are a must unless you want to drop the whole subframe.

 

Yeah dropping the subframe is what I'm trying to avoid....preferably I'd want to leave the diff up there too lol. I Did my transfer case bushing last week too and I MacGyvered a tool to press that in. But i had to resort to destructive techniques to get it out though. I Used a sawzall to cut the middle out, then i carefully cut through the metal sleeve in two spots. It came out easy after that. But That was just one bushing this job will be....7 right?
I Ordered the rear bushing overhaul kit from fcp so I'll have other ones that id like to get done at the same time

 

My the clunk i hear with my car only happens when going over bumps at about 25mph or less and shifting does not make it do the noise. So Between diff or subframe bushings i feel like the subframe bushings are causing my thunk since shifting doesn't make it happen. I Plan on doing both anyways but that just my thinking on it. Sounds About right?

 

Seems logical to me. For my car it's the other way around.

Only time I hear it is when engaging the clutch in first or reverse. I'm pretty sure I can feel the diff moving around when quickly going on and off throttle too. I need to get the car on jack stands and look for movement while someone else operates the clutch.

 

DIY. Easy job with the proper tools. Although i am getting some strange noises in my car when taking off and stopping. Hmm could be unrelated.

 

Haha have you done it? It's not "easy". It's hard labor.

 

I have just 2 weeks ago. Had no help just used a floor jack and stands. I thought it was pretty easy. The worst part for me was separating the diff from the driveshaft and pulling out the e-brake cables out. Other than that it didnt seem to hard.

 

You make it sound a lot easier than everything else I've read/watched on this. You replaced all of your subframe and diff bushings? How was removing the old and installing the new bushings? Did you use any special tools?

 

Lol when i finished i said everyone made it seem harder than it was. I replaced all 7 sub bushing. New camber arms. Upper inner rear control arm bushings and 4 ball joints. Yes i rented tools to extract and install everything. It is a MUST. Make sure u have plenty of wrenchs and sockets in the same sizes as you u need to counterhold alot of stuff

I will also say that i am now experiencing some strange noises taking off in reverse and 1st. Some creaking and some clunking. Not sure if it is related but i am gonna get back under and give the car a once over to rule everything out.

 

If i remember correctly i think I've read about someone having some noise after doing these bushings and it was because they weren't torqued correctly. I don't remember the exact torque but it's pretty high i think and probably important.

 

I have a light knocking noise during very low speed turning (parking). It's very strange. I retorqued everything to TIS spec. Not sure what it is.

 

After the bushing install? Front or rear of car?

 

I did the rear subframe you can find them used on ebay from California for 100 bucks with new bushings already installed for differential. it was a lot of work hard job you better be a good mechanic. you can leave the trailing arms and control arms in the car just remove differential first. then subframe and control arm bolts. remove nuts in the cabin for ebrake cables and yank that subframe right outta there. pain in the but lining control arms back up but well worth saving the time imho.

 

I've been thinking of getting a used subframe too. Then i could press all the bushings in pretty much on my own time then it would go much quicker when i do it. Or save me some money on labor if i decided not to do it myself.

I mean it's not like i don't think i could do it, I'm pretty sure i can do it...it's probably just guna suck to do and I'll be swearing the whole time lol but being able to just pull the subframe out and immediately putting one with new bushings back in would make it seem not quiet as bad

 

oh one more thing wherever possible torque to spec. I went back with torque wrench and book and I was really low on everything. big differential bolt is crazy like 150 foot pounds or something like that

 

Grab an impact and wail on it. Pneumatic ones often have little dials on them, and the newer brushless electric ones too. Very handy as a rough guesstimate.

 

My mechanic charged me $100 labor for differential seals and fluid as well as changing one of the subframe bushings

 

That sounds like a pretty good deal! You Got a good mechanic there man

 

Just got a torque wrench from sears. Hopefully torquing everything to proper spec will clear up this clunk i hear now and then.

 

yeah man. I read a lot about preloading. I don't do it. but after stripping a small stud inside my cylinder head, I picked up a used snapon torque wrench on ebay for a hundred bucks, 3/8". I used that for smaller torques up to like 75 pounds. above 75-150 I used a big sears torque wrench. Man the large diff bolt torque spec I like 135-150 foot pounds somewhere in there don't remember exactly. You guys talkin bout "man" torque. sheesh. my torque wrench was prettttty big I had to put every ounce of strength into that wrench to get the spec. You should make it a general rule on big jobs especially with a lot of nuts and bolts to make your best effort to torque to spec. You put a lot of time effort and money into these jobs why risk being too tight or too loose? be carefuly of antiseize too. I only every use a little of it cuz it messes with torque.