[kburger]

I did the rear subframe you can find them used on ebay from California for 100 bucks with new bushings already installed for differential. it was a lot of work hard job you better be a good mechanic. you can leave the trailing arms and control arms in the car just remove differential first. then subframe and control arm bolts. remove nuts in the cabin for ebrake cables and yank that subframe right outta there. pain in the but lining control arms back up but well worth saving the time imho.

 

[kburger]

oh one more thing wherever possible torque to spec. I went back with torque wrench and book and I was really low on everything. big differential bolt is crazy like 150 foot pounds or something like that

 

[kburger]

yeah man. I read a lot about preloading. I don't do it. but after stripping a small stud inside my cylinder head, I picked up a used snapon torque wrench on ebay for a hundred bucks, 3/8". I used that for smaller torques up to like 75 pounds. above 75-150 I used a big sears torque wrench. Man the large diff bolt torque spec I like 135-150 foot pounds somewhere in there don't remember exactly. You guys talkin bout "man" torque. sheesh. my torque wrench was prettttty big I had to put every ounce of strength into that wrench to get the spec. You should make it a general rule on big jobs especially with a lot of nuts and bolts to make your best effort to torque to spec. You put a lot of time effort and money into these jobs why risk being too tight or too loose? be carefuly of antiseize too. I only every use a little of it cuz it messes with torque.