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Intake boot alignment?

8.9K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  MrMCar  
#1 ·
I've looked in Bentley etc. and I can't find any specifics on how the two intake boots after the MAF are supposed to align with each other. Everything I see says "pay attention to how they are aligned when you take them out and replicate that when you replace." I replaced them 30k miles ago and never got them well aligned because I thought the F connector was supposed to be vertical (apparently, now that I look at many under hood photos, it is supposed to lean toward the intake manifold) and now the one closest to the MAF has a near kink in it (squished like an oval, not circular). My engine seems to run just fine (no vacuum leaks etc.) but it bothers me every time I work on the car. Essentially what I'm asking is if there is a guide on how the two boots line up on the plastic ring connector between the two halves of the boot.

Thank you!
 
#4 ·
I just did this yesterday on my car and the best way I found was install the boots loose by not tighten the clamps down. Next install the air intake with the MAF. After you get the perfect alignment and fitment by adjusting the boots tighten the clamps down. In the past I just used to put them on and tighten the clamps right away. Then when installing the boot between the MAF I would fight a bit to get it closer. Now it goes on smoother.
 
#10 ·
When I replaced the intake boot on mine (it was torn), I tried to orient the boot so it had as little stress as possible. Stressing the rubber will cause it to fail. So I turned the upper boot until it naturally "aimed" the MAF at the hole in the air cleaner box. The F connector on top is tilted over, until it almost touches the engine. It doesn't seem to hurt anything.
 
#17 ·
^ This.

I found using a little silicone free lube like inox or even soapy water helped. If you slip the lower boot on with the tab at 6 o'clock, the turn the boot anti clockwise a little bit, you'll feel the tab drop into the notch and then it will resist turning either way after that. The top boot seems to find its happy place if you install it with the airbox and MAF in, then rotate it to the point where it's all relaxed, not stretching. The vacuum "F" fitting lays over toward the motor a bit, almost at 45 deg it seems.
 
#15 ·
Great discussion! @BaliDawg is there any downside to using the one piece X3 version? Is it tougher to get the lower hose clamps tightened with the whole boot in the way? This seems like a clearly superior solution, so I'm trying to figure out why BMW went to all the trouble to make it two parts and add the center joint etc. Or maybe since the X3 was later, they realized it didn't need to be two pieces?
 
#20 ·
I'm trying to figure out why BMW went to all the trouble to make it two parts and add the center joint etc.
Having 2 boots is easier to remove/install the DISA -- just loosen the middle clamp and turn the top boot away . With one boot you have to reach way down to the TB and unclamp it.