I am not sure it is as dramatic as that, however I did hear from many authoritative sources that BMW's coolant seems to be far gentler on the seals within the engine.

 

I was wondering what the difference was :dunno: I got a ECS coolant kit which came with a gallon of BMW coolant when I refreshed my system. I couldn't believe how much heavier it was than that green stuff. It definitely has more solids than that other stuff :thumbsup:

 

He said as soon as he discovered it he promptly drained the green @!#$ and replaced it with BMW coolant... and didn't even charge me for it. He said in good conscience he couldn't allow my car to have that green @!#$ in it.

Now that's a BMW mechanic that cares!

 

I'm not sure what exactly is wrong with the green coolant itself, but I have heard that it is the mixing with OEM blue that causes problems.

 

green bad

 

He said it wreaks havoc with the engine block and can lead to blown gaskets, electrolysis and "just generally @!#$ up the engine" (I love my tech's colorful language). And he did blame my thermostat problem on the coolant, so maybe that's proof positive right there. Anyway, no more green $#@! for my baby.

 

1st off, let's agree that "green one" isn't this ONE special type. There are a ton of companies making this stuff. I've seen them anywhere from dark green, to virtually colorless to orange. Engines for most part have very similar internals and materials used so green isn't going to destroy your system, it certainly could shorten it's life a bit. Have green? switch it to blue.. go back to the bar, order a drink and relax.

 

LOL. Hey, I'm just quoting my tech. What can I say, the guy is passionate about his work. Almost gave me a freaking tongue lashing because I had green #@%$ in the cooling system, like I'm supposed to know that?!!! Seriously, he made me feel like he caught me getting away with engine abuse or something. I'm just glad I've got a tech who cares that much. I suspect 90% of the folks out there wouldn't have given a damn.

 

Wow!

That was some colorful, nasty language he used on you!:ben:

You spelled it out 7 times in 5 different spellings!

 

as long as you don't mix green and blue coolant, you'll be fine. And when you "weighed" the green vs the blue, were you weighing diluted vs concentrate? that would make a huge difference.

Is green coolant going to doom your engine? Most likely not. I ran it for about 50,000 miles in my car with no issues. I've run green coolant in other aluminum motors as well.

 

coolant is coolant BUT, there are some differences in composition and additives which as we have gotten exotic with our engines and the metals we use it becomes critical to get it right, but it will DOOM your engine if your using the wrong stuff. I have orange in my car right now, which i know isnt ideal, but its what the dealer put in (and will be changing in the spring as part of a complete over haul), but Zerex G-05 is Green IIRC and thats on the approved list. I always remind people that BMW doesnt have a special factory for its fluids, they are 9/10 using something supplied by someone else. People seem to think its g-48 zerex which is impossible to find. Who knows. the other 99% of the population doesnt read web boards and they are fine, running god only knows what the dealer puts in. The thermostat failed because its somewhat poorly designed, and in your high heat environment probably over heated and broke down early.

Just my .02

 

there are a few differences from green to BMW. notably, BMW coolant is a variation of xerex G-05 known as G-48. The G-line is a hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) which has the following benefits according to valvoline, makers of xerex:

• Protection for up to 5 years / 150,000 miles
• Approved by Ford and DaimlerChrysler for use in automotive and diesel engines.
• Utilizes hybrid organic acid technology to minimize inhibitor depletion
• Low-silicate, low-pH and phosphate-free formula
• Provides protection against liner pitting and corrosion
• Helps prevent rust and corrosion
• Helps prevent hot weather boil-overs and cold weather freeze-ups
• Protects all cooling system metals, including aluminum

There are other benefits including greater lubricity and less cavitation than standard green. I think it is the best choice for our cars including the block, seals, thermostat, etc, so your mechanic did the right thing.

http://www.whitfieldoil.com/downloads/ZerexAntifreezeLineupChart.pdf

 

Speaking of pH, single most important thing to watch for in the coolant is pH. You can use the pH strip to determine the balance in your fluid, typically you want to see it in the 9 range. Distilled water is ~7 and umixed coolant is typically ~10. Anything below 7-8 is becoming too acidic.

 

BMW coolant is no more expensive per 50/50 gallon than pre-mixed prestone is. Why wouldnt you use it?

 

I'm still wondering what fool buys any pre-mixed coolant. That was a stroke of marketing genius at any rate.

 

at least he did u the favor of doing it for free lol

 

Hey, I didn't ask him to do it and he couldn't charge me for something I didn't authorize. Nevertheless, I'm grateful that he cared enough to take the time to do it. I rest easier knowing the guy wants to do right by the car even if he doesn't get paid for it.

 

Blue = Good

 

I blew 2 expansion tanks, 2 thermostats, and 2 water pumps (all OEM) while using BMW's supposedly awesome "blue coolant". These failures all occured after less than 25k miles each time. After realizing that the "blue awesomeness juice" was really doing my car no favors, I decided to switch to...

...and haven't had any of these issues for over 70k miles.

I live by the rule of common sense...and my brain (and my car's history) say that marketing is a powerful tool that gets people by the balls most times. I'll stick with the Peak stuff.

 

I blew 2 expansion tanks, 2 thermostats, and 2 water pumps (all OEM) while using BMW's supposedly awesome "blue coolant". These failures all occured after less than 25k miles each time. After realizing that the "blue awesomeness juice" was really doing my car no favors, I decided to switch to...

...and haven't had any of these issues for over 70k miles.

I live by the rule of common sense...and my brain (and my car's history) say that marketing is a powerful tool that gets people by the balls most times. I'll stick with the Peak stuff.

I'm not sure that this anecdotal evidence proves it was the coolant...though understand why you think so. Me? I'd suspect something else...like maybe the mechanics experience or something...or incomplete draining at some point...fouling up one thing or another...which led to a cascading effect on your car.

Some of it might just be bad luck...there are many therms that just fail open or rarely closed. WPs fail all the time too...and of course, ETs are notorious for failing...though my theory is that's mostly operator/mechanic error in filling our ET like most cars' radiators; i.e., up to the top.

Just saying, Alpin. But wanted to include this 'note' just in case many take your post as license to put whatever they find is cheapest. They might not find out it could be an issue for 50K miles. I also only use distilled....and also...

When I found green in my cooling system, I filled twice with pure distilled after draining from engine block...drove around to circulate...drained twice...and then went with the holy blue fluid.

OCD run amok, I know!

Doug

 

Doug, the 1st requirement of owning a BMW is OCD.

 

I use zerex G5
I forgot what color it is

 

Add blue food coloring to it, so you don't have to remember. It's a car, it will think it's 'the stuff.'

 

huh I thought OEM coolant turns green after several years..guess I had wrong info =/

 

green coolant and aluminum cooling system parts do not mix. BMW uses aluminum and/or metallic parts in their cooling system that can be deteriorated from long term use of the "green"
coolant.
That is what i was always told when I had my e36 1995 318i.

Now that I got my e46 330i I'm actually more plagued with plastic coolant system parts failing than aluminum system parts corroding from the ghetto green juice.

 

Agree 100%! Where you been, Del?

Anyway, I use the blue stuff to treat all the plastic in my interior...it's not only a great floorwax for home use, and a terrific interior plastic cleaner that cleans and protects, it also masks the smell of leaking coolant from the cooling system.

How could anything have more win in it? (Oh, and it tastes great, but isn't particularly filling!)

Doug

 

Meh. I had Preston in my e46. Now I'm running super tech ( walmart brand) green coolant in the e39. Coolant is coolant IMHO. The only crap I wouldn't touch is that orange gm shiit. That stuff becomes sludge after 2 years. Blue, green, piss yellow, etc, colored coolant is fine to run in any aluminum/ iron engines. Don't buy into the hype.

 

Meh. I had Preston in my e46. Now I'm running super tech ( walmart brand) green coolant in the e39. Coolant is coolant IMHO.

Negative. There are formulas that will harm your engine. For example, phosphate-containing coolants.

 

Mixing green with the BMW coolant can cause nasty chemical reactions that may turn the mixture thick, there was a thread on this way back some time. BMW coolant is pure and free of a lot of impurities that can be found in a lot of other mixtures, and you should always stick to it, I thought this was pretty common knowledge around here? For something that's so minor you really shouldn't cheap out on it.

 

I remember reading somewhere that BMW induces a electrical charge through the coolant in order for temperature sensor and level sensor to give accurate readings since the sensors don't physically touch coolant....? Something like that........

 

Better than the brown and yellow foamy piss that I drained out of my cooling system a while back when I got my car.

 

The green one is not ripe therefore your engines' internals will ache! Please, do yourself a favor OP... read the manual, then read the back of lets say Prestone, and you will see that it not only meets but exceeds BMWs requirements!

 

I agree, but it doesn't seem to matter to most people here, because BMW's marketing department has already won. I see everyone saying "well, you probably just overfilled it or didn't bleed it right all the other times" etc., but what makes you think I just happened to get it right after switching to the "green stuff"? I knew what I was doing then, and I know what I am doing now.

The proof is in the pudding, and most modern "green" coolants that are phosphate free are perfectly fine to run in an E46. Also, until I see 100% proof for all this hearsay about "well, the BMW formula ionizes the sensors" BS, I'll be inclined to keep using what has worked for the most miles and has shown the best results.

The OP says that his "tech" says "no green coolant"...well, my "tech" at BMW Encinitas (who has worked for BMW for 15 years) is the one who guided me toward using the Peak "green stuff" a few years ago. Only thing is, I've had something to show for the switch.

Call me crazy, but I'm not a sheep...and don't believe that using BMW coolant is anymore relevant than using BMW oil. There's no real need...and there are other options that work just as well or better.

...but flame on anyhow...