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Fuel Level Problem

19K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  azadani  
#1 ·
Looks like I've got my first "ghost in the machine".

2005 325i AT
243,000kms

My fuel tank is topping off, but my gauge is reading half full. Happened after sitting for a week, no problem prior.

I've done a bit of research, and I was under the impression there was a left and right fuel pump, and that the level sensor was a separate component to the pump that could be removed separately.

When I look at realoem, it looks like there's a single pump with an integrated level sensor.


If that's the case, no problem. I'll look at the pump and if the hose clamps are original I'll change it out due to the mileage. It's passed pressure tests, but if it's partially faulty I'd change the lot.

Can anyone clarify that for me?

Also, should I try the hidden menu reset 19/21? I saw a video and he mentioned it reset the fuel gauge, but does it do anything else?

 
#4 ·
Before you take the back seat out, do the 'troubleshooting menu'
test with the cluster-
it sounds like one of your sensors is stuck at empty, and the test
will tell you that.

THEN pop the back seat, and pull the offending sender. They can stick,
sink or break. DO wait until you've used at least a third of a tank-
the fuel level's higher than the sender when it's absolutely topped- off.

I found that out once.

hth
t
 
#8 ·
Hope I'm not jumping on the OP's thread too much, but it seems relevant.

Hidden menu function 19/6:

6.0 118200-199200. Seems to fluctuate a bit just sitting there.
6.1 351 35.1L?
6.2 329 32.9L?

If this is the case they are both reading correctly (I've just topped it right off)? Would this mean that I should reset the cluster via 19/21?

I would appreciate some advice, as I'm home today and want to have a look.
 
#9 ·
If its not on the cluster i would just pull the sending unit out of the tank, not that big of a job (10mins), i did mine a while back when my pump went out, you can then check the level sensor thingy and make sure it moves up and down without problem...if its the original pump, and you have some money laying about... probably best to replace it as well while in there... Good luck m8
 
#13 ·
They say we have a 60 ish litre tank, and if thats divided to the two sides then i would say 30ish each side would mean that the cluster indeed is showing wrong...then again the lift sensor could he stuck...but then again in the secret menus it would also only show a half tank so it has to be the cluster needle showing Wrong...i think....
 
#15 ·
Ok, next, run it down a quarter tank or so, and pull the senders!

It's not hard (cleaning takes longest, as it gets skungy under there)

and then you can physically move the senders and see what the gauge interprets that as.

Yes, it's kinda stinky, and no smoking.

I've just had a DME with a bad eeprom cell, so I'm all about the 'reflash your cluster and see if the problem migrates'
but don't do that yet.

You can also unplug the senders and meter them- I forget the actual values, but you're looking for
smooth movement between something like 60 and 0 ohms for each.

hth

t
wears a respirator these days.
Gas used to smell better.
 
#18 ·
Well thank you, and now I must live up to your kind words....but seriously, no smoking? What's the world coming to? Next thing you'll be telling me I can't be drunk while I do it.

All jokes aside though, I'm glad you popped in on this one. If the hose clamps are original would I just replace the fuel pump on the right and the sensor on the left and be done with it?

My understanding is that the level sensor is integrated in the pump on the right, and a sensor only on the left. Is that correct? Do you see many of the LH side sensors fail?

I'm running out of time for re rego, and the steering/suspension is the focus. I'm inclined to drive short trips until then and live with it just for a week or 2. Especially if I'm still getting full use of the fuel tanks and can just track my kms to make sure I don't run out.
 
#19 ·
Mate i found this after going around the forum, hope it's of some use.

 
#24 ·
Given what you state, replacing the pump is a good idea.

The problem with either of the level senders is that they are what we call a "wiper". There's a resistance change on a rheostat type of track. As the float arm rises/falls the amount of resistance back to the cluster (fuel level reporting AND heavily buffered) changes.

It's very possible that the resistance values are good for 80% of the travel and bad in one or two spots?
The only way to know would be to bench test it with a DVOM.

Image
 
#26 ·
Just to "close this job off" and for anyone who has had the same problem, I fitted a new pump today and all seems good. It wasn't the original pump, as it had a generic hose clamp and signs of the amateurish workmanship of the previous owner, but I changed it and the gasket all the same.

I've only driven a short trip as it's unregistered at the moment, but I'll be interested to see if this doesn't improve my fuel trims.