Bend to a different angle. Usually lasts another year.

 

High temp aluminum exhuast system repair tape ... Versachem part number 82009.

I cut strips of it and stick it along the top surface of the heat shield. I tried to put the tape directly over the rivets but its actually pretty tough to get it back far enough. Seems to change the harmonics and prevent the rattle, though I've noticed mine is rattling again when cold and on an incline so might need to revist it with more tape.

 

So maybe my old 2000 323iT engine was so smooth it didn't break the heat shields.

I will try to find a good sized silicone hose, cut it to length and jam the pieces -- acts like spring -- in between the head and the shield, then add some silicone glue to hold them there.

 

A better solution: drill a small hole near center top edge of the shields, then pull it down with a small spring which tied to something below on the inner fender. It should look good like a factory design.

But then the spring will cut through the hole in a few years again. So I'm back to the silicone hose.

 

A better solution: drill a small hole near center top edge of the shields, then pull it down with a small spring which tied to something below on the inner fender. It should look good like a factory design.

Thought about that before, even safety wire them together so they dont rattle. Too much trouble unless the head is off or the engine is out IMHO. The foil ball wedged in between the two edges of the shields close to the head is nearly invisible if you do it neatly and costs virtually nothing in parts or time. If you must remove the head or ex manifold in the future, then is the time to replace with new. Which in time, will start rattling again lol.

 

I pushed some metal wedges into the gaps and that solved it permanently.

 

Push some aluminum foil rolled up into a ball in between where the 2 shields meet. That's where the rattling usually comes from. It's worked like a charm for me for almost a decade now.

 

Buy a rivet gun.

 

I have it but it's useless in this case as there is no room to do in Situ.

 

Solved problem using genuine BMW part: I had a bad ignition coil recently and replaced it. I pulled the perfect silicone boot off the coil tip (where it covers the spark plug) then cut and used the larger end section to wedge in between the 2 shields, deep in near the head and invisible. Thanks to the aluminum ball suggestion.