Before you get too far down the path, even the Bosch tool needs updates and just because it has worked on 30 other cars does not mean it will work on this car without a problem.

There are many different OBDII protocols and I have seen a number of tools that have software bugs in them.

Also, you do know the engine does not need to be running to connect to the DME? So I would first try to connect without the engine running. This also assumes the battery is good, battery and charging problems on these cars can cause crazy things to happen when trying to communicate with modules.

You would actually be better off with a smart phone/tablet App and low cost interface, less than $30 for iProducts and less than $20 if you run Android.

Not sure what mythical connection under the hood/inside the DME box you are referring to? What is the build month and year on the car or the last 7 of the VIN?

The majority of these cars have massive vacuum leak problems, smoke testing will find the leaks in minutes.

Suggest you read over this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

 

The last 7 of the vin are PH00750. I have indeed tried to scan the computer with the vehicle off but the key turned to auxiliary. The battery is only a year old and has plenty of juice. Can you please elaborate on what DME actually is. My mythical problem surrounding the DME is largely because I don't understand it and thanks to other peoples problems similar to mine, they talk about the DME being a reason the ECU takes a dump. This app you talk about should be more accurate than my bosch scanner because it has the proper updated software/interface that pertains exclusively to BMW?

 

Car build date is 5/2002. There is no BMW 20 Pin round DLC connector under the hood, BMW stopped this in early 2001 as I recall.

The DME is the same as the ECU, BMW calls the ECU/ECM the DME for Digital Motor Electronics.

The DME is very robust, there have been only a few occasions that DME's fail or partially fail, this would be one of the LAST things I would look into and point a finger at.

The App I am referring to is a generic OBDII App and this is ALL you need. There is no need for some $20k BMW specialty tool or software. If the $4 App cannot communicate with the DME, nothing else will.

The Bosch tool is nothing more than an OTC tool because Bosch bought out OTC as I recall. I have never been impressed with OTC tools and I have been in the business a LONG time.

The $13 Bluetooth interface I recommend works on every one of the E46's and I have never heard of a DOA interface. If this does not work, then there is a problem, but sorry, I do not trust the OTC tools and if it has not been updated, it needs to be updated. Also many of the Prosumer tools have an OBDII section and a "Scanner" section. Most "techs" skip the OBDII section of the tool and only use the "Scanner" portion of the tool. BIG, BIG mistake, ALWAYS start with the OBDII option.

Before I would worry about the DME, I would smoke test the intake and look for air/vacuum leaks, after 10 years these engines have MANY.

Vacuum leaks would be the first place I would focus on the car, not the DME.

Spend the $20-$30 to get the OBDFusion App and proper interface.

Android - https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Blue...27A/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1484622048&sr=8-1&keywords=veepeak+bluetooth

iProduct - https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scan...Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484622068&sr=8-1&keywords=veepeak

 

SO thanks to your help and advice I saved the money and simply updated the software on my scanner and was able to read the codes! It originally gave me 7 codes p0313, p0300, p1347, p1512, p1351, p1349, p1345. Now the ones that really stand out to me are the misfires on cylinders 2-5. A lot of times after erasing the codes and then turning on the vehicle you can pinpoint what code is the most prominent.

After I erased them and turned the car on I had: p0313, p1351, p1349. I let the car idle for about 5 mins to see what codes would be confirmed and the only cylinder misfire to be confirmed was the p1351 for cylinder number 5. p1349 (cylinder 4) stayed pending. So I decided that if there was to be a problem it would be from 5.

This morning I reset the codes again but this time I planned on swapping the coils around to see if it followed the coil.

Step 1: swapped cylinder 5 ignition coil with cylinder 1. Fired it up to see that the code followed the coil, the car threw a pending p1343 (misfire on cylinder 1) at me along with a pending p1351 and a pending p1512 after driving it 1 mile around the block. My point here is that I had never received a code for cylinder 1 so I was starting to get excited.

Step 2: swapped ignition coil that i borrowed from cylinder 1 back to its home and put the suspected cylinder 5 ignition coil with cylinder 6 (since i never received a misfire from that cylinder either) and used the ignition coil from 6 in cylinder 5. I fired it up and took it around the block and received a pending p1353 (misfire on cylinder 6) and a pending p1512.

At this point I am pretty confident that the ignition coil from cylinder 5 is my problem, what about you?

Now when it comes to replacing these what brand do you recommend? I have a commercial account at O'reily and their brand is and import direct aka bremi, 1 for $75. I was looking on Amazon and they have bosch for about $48 and it was apparently made in Slovenia. QYL sells a 6 pack for $73.

Your insight up to this point has been much appreciated!

 

Have you looked at the spark plugs? At 133, yours may still say BMW and have an .070" gap.

Jenn's did, embarassingly. At 125k...

t

 

I have not. What is the specific gap supposed to be?

 

Sounds like that cylinder #5 coil is bad. Bosch and Bremi are OEM.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BN53-USA-05-2002-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=12_1051
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330i/Ignition-Coils?year=2002&e=180&m=20&page=1

Likely there are other problems as well though. I'd replace the bad coil (or all six if you desire), clear the codes, have a drive, and see what codes come back. Also, look at the fuel trims at warm idle and steady highway cruise speed to see if it's running lean or what.

As jfoj suggested, I would also get the wireless ELM327 OBD interface and OBD Fusion app. Both for less than $25 and have great features: real time data in gauges, emissions readiness monitors, fuel status, trouble code display and clearing, freeze frame data, proper O2 sensor support, PID logging to CSV file, export logs to dropbox for sharing and graphing.

 

So of course once I fix one problem another decides to poke its head out. I had noticed even when the car was misfiring (before replacing the ignition coil to cylinder 5, fixing the rough idle) I heard a faint howling noise coming from around the power steering reservoir and it was only really significant once first fired up and before it started missing significantly. I have yet to pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from, but it is definitely a lot more prominent since the rpms leveled out.

I have done some research on the topic already and have found that it could be any of the following:

vacuum leak
low power steering fluid
pulley (alternator, belt tensioner or power steering pump)
fan clutch
ac compressor (however the noise is on the opposite side of the motor, i believe)
fuel filter
CCV/PCV

I checked the fan clutch and it still has some resistance yet isnt seized. I replaced it on my 328is so I know what to look for and in my opinion the fan clutch is more of a whirring than a howling (depending on failure I suppose).

I haven't checked the CCV yet.

Turned on AC and the motor fluctuated randomly, so did the air coming out the vents. The air was nice and cold though. Bad bearing? (am really hoping this is not the case, if so is there a way to bypass the compressor so i cant test it?)

Have not been able to find any vacuum leak.

The power steering fluid is very slightly below the top mark. (plenty of fluid)

Alternator does appear to have some age on it and I can't remember if it is from the factory or not (car has 130000 miles on it and is a 2002 330ci auto) however, I have not had charging issues. (i understand that a pulley can go bad even though the alternator is good)

After the car has been running and i cut power, I hear a slight puff of air and it sounds similar to a waste-gate (non-turbo car). Sounds like my GF when I make a dumb comment

MY QUESTION:

What is near the power steering reservoir that will cause a howling when it fails?

Again any opinions are appreciated! Jfoj I would like your input as well! I know that getting graphs and real time data is ideal, funds are tight so I dont have the luxury ATM but will try with my scanner once I get direction.

 

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893

 

Thanks to running it with the belt off, the noise stopped. I spun each pulley and the idler was seized something major. I am lucky that it didn't snap my belt! Now I am experiencing a rough idle only when the car is cold!

The car drives beautifully once warm for the rest of the day. I have scanned the codes and it threw 2 different ones, they are: p1349 p0505.

P0505 is the idle air control system. I cleaned it and the valve inside was not seized, just a little dirty. Cleaned it up with brake fluid, reinstalled and fired it up. The code hasn't come back on after I reset it.

The next morning I fire it up (after it dropped to 45 degrees overnight) runs ok for 10 seconds but then a rough idle sets in. Scanned the SES and that is when I received the p1349.

p1349 could be a misfire on cylinder 4, CCV (i don't have any white smoke), DISA or PCV hose. Seems that after it starts to idle rough I turn it off and reset the code, the rough idle goes away. Not sure if it is simply because the code has told the computer to trip out, or if the fresh start changes something mechanically on its last leg (after it takes my scanner a couple minutes to scan/erase). I have noticed a pretty loud clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the DISA or ICV. The DISA is functional and will shut and spring back open. I did notice that the flap had some play when it was sitting open. I was able to move it up and down (the opposite way from closing it) pretty easy. Please note that this is not to be confused with me trying to close it. Is this my noise??

Is there supposed to be some play in the the flap when not shut. What is the purpose of the DISA? Again, when the vehicle is warmed up the rough idle never comes back (even after it had been sitting for an hour). Could this be a fuel pump about to go out? Fuel injector that needs to be cleaned? CCV? PCV hose? The coil packs are in great shape!

Thanks!

 

OBDFusion and the proper VeePeak interface from Amazon will go a LONG way to easily transfer and share data.

My guess is you are getting a loud pop,snap or knock while idling?

Fuel injectors and fuel pump are not likely a cause of the problem.

Suggest you read this - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Search my user name and the term Smoke Test.

 

:rofl:

 

I was running the car this morning and let it idle with a misfire. While running I erased the code p1349 and the cars idle leveled out and became normal the second the light went off.

Is this an ECM issue? Could an exhaust leak trick the computer into shutting off fuel to Cylinder 4?

Significant exhaust leak for the first 45 seconds, ONLY on a morning after a 45 degree night.

Spark is good. Wanted to get an idea as to why I can calm down the car with erasing the code.

I am doing a cold compression test tomorrow AM.

 

It's called Misfire with Fuel Cut Off.

BMW has this feature to keep too much raw fuel from from flooding the catalytic converters and overheating them. The DME is commanded to shut of the fuel injector to the offending cylinder(s) when too many misfires are registered in a specific amount of time. An exhaust leak should have no bearing or cause this. The Fuel Cut Off will last for a period of time, but either shutting the engine off and restarting the engine or clearing the code will clear the Fuel Cut Off, this is why the engine runs smooth after clearing the code(s).

My guess is the problem is the DISA and/or a leaking DISA O-ring, but you seem to not want to diagnose the problem or at least look at the OBVIOUS problems that ALL OF THESE ENGINES have! If the DISA has little to no resistance removing it the first 1/2" or installing is the last 1/2" the O-ring needs to be replaced.

You need to read this thread at least 3 times - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
The noise may not be an exhaust leak, it may actually be the DISA or a problem with noise from the SAP?

 

That makes sense. I neglected to mention that i replaced the DISA and my flapping clicking noise went away. I have noticed a correlation between the exhaust leak and the misfire code. Seems that on the mornings after a rain and the temperature doesnt get below 55 it doesnt miss and i dont have a SIGNIFICANT exhaust leak. This morning it did and I was suspecting this and that is how I was able to reset the code while bringing the car back to life.

Will a failing SAP make an exhaust leak sound? I understand that most say it is a whirring/vacuumish noise.

Fuel pump wouldnt be the case because it runs fine when warm.

Fuel injector being dirty?

Will an exhaust leak cause a "misfire" according to the DME? Would the DME know if there was an exhaust leak and try to compensate for it?

I will read your article!

 

An exhaust leaks is not likely to cause a misfire not will the leak cause the DME to think there is a misfire.

Best to Smoke Test the intake, crankcase and even the exhaust system.

You can even Smoke Test for burned/cracked valves by making a fitting to inject smoke into the cylinder while both valves are closed. Often it is easier to remove the Pre-cat O2 sensors to look for smoke leaking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

https://youtu.be/1sRZ5ves1DM

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1115860

Cheap fluid transfer pump from your local auto parts store or Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Multi-Use...tomotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452747866&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=fluid+transfer+pump&psc=1

A few rubber gloves, rubber bands and some cheap mini cigars from our local gas station or convenience store. You can also use a cheap E-cigarette and it may be safer than a lit cigar as well. Not sure if you can use mineral oil in the E-cigarette or if this would be to flammable.

Also get a good, bright LED flashlight to locate the escaping smoke. Look deep in the engine compartment and under the engine if needed. Do not forget the dipstick guide tube and the lower CCV oil return line. These areas may be hard to see from above in the engine compartment.

After looking for intake air leaks, remove the oil fill cap and allow the crankcase to fully fill up with smoke, then replace the oil fill cap. Check for cracks in the valve covers and leaks around the grommets, half moons and around the perimeter of the valve cover.

Common areas of leaks:

Upper and lower intake boots
Upper intake boot around F connector
DISA main O-ring and shaft area
Vacuum hoses under the rear of the intake
Fuel pressure vent hose that connects to the F connector on the upper intake boot and under the drivers floor board where it connects to the fuel pressure regulator
CCV and hoses, especially the lower oil return line
Dipstick and dipstick guide tube
Oil fill cap
Valve cover gaskets and cracked valve covers
SAP vacuum line to Kombi valve on front of engine, this will not leak smoke because of the control valve under the rear of the intake
Power brake booster sucking jet pump and hoses.

Note that the brake booster usually cannot be smoke tested because of the input vacuum check valve at the booster connection.