I've not done it yet, but many people have. Here's a quick rundown of all the parts one guy had to remove in order to get to the pan itself.

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457789

 

Sure its possible. People do cut the gasket to get it in position without removing the steering rack. But if you do this, youre ruining the structural integrity of the piece that only has one job, to keep fluids where they are suppose to be.

 

My mechanic always suggested to lift the engine a couple inches and remove it that way, it it much easier than removing everything under the oil pan and leaving the engine the way it is.

 

Just be glad you don't have an XI. There's way more stuff under there. I think my 325xi is starting to leak as well (180k mi), but I'm not even going to consider diving into that maze. I'd rather wait for a 3.0 litre engine to swap in and do all gaskets at once.

 

I've done it and I wouldn't call it hard, just tedious. I would plan on an entire weekend, but I'm slow.

Some tips:
1. I borrowed an engine support. Harbor Freight has them for about $70. No other special tools required.
2. You don't have to separate the inner control arm ball joints. I unbolted the bushings.
3. Separate the steering coupler at the top and you won't need to worry about alignment. It's keyed and only goes in one way.
4. I use the DIY here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=949089

Been driving it now for over a year and still dry as a bone.

 

My first time it took 12 hours since I like to take my time and replace a million other things while in there. Second time around 8 hours. Support engine from top. Subframe is very awkward to move around especially with wheels attached. stuff's heavy

 

I replaced the oil pan gasket, and posted my observations here.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=844442

It is tedious but DIY-able. Great opportunity to replace motor mounts and some other parts. Don't cut the gasket to install it, do it right. The bolts on the aluminum support frame are stretch bolts that need to be replaced, btw.

 

It is a time consuming job. If you are comfortable around cars, don't mind spending most of the job on your back, and a good problem solver, then go for it. It was one of the more difficult projects I have ever done on this car. Just give yourself a whole day to complete the job, take your time, and you will do just fine.

 

It's not too difficult, but time consuming for sure. Start to finish took about 5 hours.

1. jack up the car
2. remove front wheels
3. remove belly pan
4. drain engine oil
5. remove airbox
6. remove fan
7. remove 2 belts
8. remove dipstick guide tube -> 1x13mm, disconnect clips and pull hard from top
9. undo either top or botton engine mount nuts -> 1x16mm each side.
10. undo PS pump -> don't have to completely removed, just let it hang with some bungee cord. 3x13mm bolts
11. install engine support bar
12. remove steering coupler -> 2xtorx bots. E10 socket. Insert key into ignition so you can rotate steering. Need Loctite when reinstall.
13. undo FCAB -> 2x16mm each side, install tq at 42ft-lb
14. undo swaybar nuts -> 4x14 or 13mm
15. undo oil level sensor wire
16. remove as much oil pan bolts you can see -> total 21x10mm, 3xtorx E10 socket
17. place jack under subframe
18. undo subframe and land it onto the jack -> 4x18mm, install tq at 81ft-lb
19. remove remaining oil pan bolts
20. lower jack and remove oil pan towards back of the car.
21. clean up
22. apply RTV on 4 corners of engine (timing cover and end cover). If you've done VCG, you will see where to apply RTV.
23. reinstall oil pan with new gasket. -> having extra hand is big + here.
24. reinstall everything back
25. after assemble is completed, give it few hours for RTV to seat properly.
26. fill up engine oil and start her up
27. cross your finger and hope new gasket is good.

While I was working on it, realized 2 mistakes I made previously which lead to oil leak.
1. smudge RTV
2. I didn't let RTV cure

1st time, I was just happy to finish and as soon as I was done, started her up to see there were any oil leaks. Gave no time for RTV to cure.
This time after everything were assembled back, I gave it full 24hrs to cure, and NO MORE LEAK!

 

My '05 has that small oil pan leak, nothing major yet. It has 195,000 km on it. The very first thing I am going to do is re-torque all the bolts, it's the simplest thing to do and it's worth a try. I first wanna tackle the leaky CCV and Transmission, thats priority #1 as they are pissing oil.

I mean I have the confidence to attempt the oil pan gasket replacement by myself but I do not have my own private garage, it's a condo. I've looked for DIY garages around here (they are scarce in Canada) and found a likely candidate. However, none of the online DIYs are for shop tools and lifts. So I am thinking that if I can find a local BMW specialist that is willing to do it for $400ish labour only I might go for it, and have the engine mounts replaced as well.

What other parts could you potentially have easy access to in order to replace while doing the oil pan?

.

 

I've done it, it wasn't hard, a good time to replace control arms, motor mounts, steering guibo, with the control arms removed the sub frame is easier to lift up and down, I left it on a jack while I did the pan, no way will caking RTV on there work. I used the harbor freight support bar. I also re-torqued bolts prior to doing the gasket, It didn't help. The positive thing was I also suspected the rear main seal also, but the oil pan sealed it up fine. I highly recommend a DIY on this. Manual recommends new bolts for the sub frame.