MJ, Stinger, Jules, Mango, and others:
First, thanks for the kind comments. FYI, my special ordered and bought new by me 330 has never been driven in rain nor has it spent a single night parked outside. I was fortunate to retire at 52 (with no pension) and I have alot more time than you folks who still work. The only thing is that, now at 59, the concrete floor seems to be getting more and more uncomfortable than it was in years past! Don't laugh, it'll happen to you too one day!
Related comment, P21S Total Body Wash is one of my most essential detailing products. Many cleaners dull bare aluminum and/or painted surfaces. P21S TBW does not but still cleans better than any other product I've used previously.
Now, control arms:
1) I checked my maintenance log for the receipt for the engine support and must have tossed it. I don't remember where I bought it, but it is a super heavy duty one. It must weigh 50 or 60 pounds. However, I do remember that it wasn't that expensive. Understand too, it is a universal one and not BMW specific.
2) With all due respect, it is my opinion that pickle forks are less than ideal, primitive tools. Pickle forks are more suitable for use on primitive vehicles, not on finely engineered BMWs.
3) The subframe on your E46 is formed sheet metal and welded together in sections, with tapered sleeves inside the structure. Even with a small capenter's hammer you could beat the subframe into an unrecognizable piece. As a consequence, a pickle fork will deform the subframe, especially around the tapered sleeves. This is not a good thing.
4) There are more suitable uses for pickle forks, like removing ball joints from a FORGED piece such as your outer front suspension carrier. Personally, I still wouldn't use a pickle fork on this either, and prefer the pivot style ball joint removers (the one you tighten a bolt to release the ball joint).
5) In my 9 years on this forum, and in my 46 years of turning wrenches on cars, there are many variables in what can make a job difficult. I have seen countless threads on this forum where people describe problems removing the inner ball joints. But then, some people seem to have only minor hassles. There is a reason for this.
6) How difficult your ball joints are to remove is dependent on three key factors; 1) the age of the car and whether or not corrosion is present, 2) whether or not the ball joints where over torqued and/or had their tapers lubes (NEVER lube the taper!), 3) one's mechanical skills and/or simple luck.
7) Removing the subframe provides an IDEAL opportunity to perform other maintenance items. Want to replace your engine mounts? With the subframe out of the car the most difficult part of this is removing the air cleaner box so you can get to the left side, upper engine mount bolt. Piece of cake! Want to pull you oil pan to inspect things, safety wire your oil pump nut, and/or install the an oil pan windage tray? Easy! How about installing the Turner engine mount/subframe reinforcement kit? All you need is someone to weld it up and you're done. Awesome! Or, you can make a thorough inspection of this area - a really thorough inspection - and while you're at it clean things up with some P21S and hot water and you'll make things look like they're brand new. Well, maybe only for you OCD folks like me....
8) Perhaps most importantly, after 46 years of turning wrenches on my cars there is NOTHING MORE DISTURBING than having a meltdown due to difficulties with the job. In years past, I sometimes cussed words that weren't even words and at times thought I was going to keel over and die. That is a MISERABLE feeling and, as we all know, you don't do your best work when you're in this state of mind! So, just be prepared, get the proper tools, have a plan, and most importantly, make sure you have ENOUGH TIME to do the job.
I think this covers everything. Any other questions? I am here in a sincere attempt to help.
Scott
PS MJ, hope you're feeling better.
