Hello im new here and i would like to get some help in code P1345 i have a 2003 325i and it has code P1345 i only feel the misfire at cold start i replace the plugs and check coils and fuel injectors by swaping #2 to #4 to see if the code would follow up but nothing.. i replaced the ccv and hoses and i also checked for vacuum leaks but the code still comes on any suggestion what could be causing this code? Thanks
ernesto510
Get OBD Fusion (see link below), do a diagnostic report at hot idle, upload it somewhere (dropbox, google drive, etc.), post a shared link to it in this thread. That will let everyone here see how the engine’s fuel managmeent system is operating, including all four fuel trims, MAF sensor value, etc.
The most common problem is high fuel trims from vacuum leaks.
The most common problem is high fuel trims from vacuum leaks.
P1345 is #2 cylinder with fuel cut off ..
I just went through this last night .
On hard acceleration or going up a hill the engine would begin to stubble and vibrate like it had a bad guibo followed by a chk eng light. P1345 was the code thrown. If I shut the ignition off and restarted the engine would run smooth again.. I first checked #2 cylinder plug and it looked good. I then swapped #2 plug and coil with #3 cylinder. Took the car out and it threw the same P1345 2 misfire with fuel cut off..it was getting late so I spent the night going through all the possible culprits ... fuel pump , fuel filter, cam sensor, injector. And on and on... the next morning what I chose to do was to put all new plugs in and swap #2 coil with #6 coil... Went for a test drive and walla #6 now misfired with no fuel cut off ...went back home and installed a spare coil that I i had on #6... problem solved .. no more p1345.
I have a feeling swapping coils within the same bank #' 1, 2 and 3 is not a good idea. If your swapping coils to test for a bad one swap from bank 1 to bank 2 ... meaning cylinder 1 with cylinder 4 .. cylinder 2 with 5 and 3 with 6...in my case I swapped 2 with 6 and the misfire followed proving the #2 coil was the culprit..
Hope this helps somebody...[/QUOTE]
I just went through this last night .
On hard acceleration or going up a hill the engine would begin to stubble and vibrate like it had a bad guibo followed by a chk eng light. P1345 was the code thrown. If I shut the ignition off and restarted the engine would run smooth again.. I first checked #2 cylinder plug and it looked good. I then swapped #2 plug and coil with #3 cylinder. Took the car out and it threw the same P1345 2 misfire with fuel cut off..it was getting late so I spent the night going through all the possible culprits ... fuel pump , fuel filter, cam sensor, injector. And on and on... the next morning what I chose to do was to put all new plugs in and swap #2 coil with #6 coil... Went for a test drive and walla #6 now misfired with no fuel cut off ...went back home and installed a spare coil that I i had on #6... problem solved .. no more p1345.
I have a feeling swapping coils within the same bank #' 1, 2 and 3 is not a good idea. If your swapping coils to test for a bad one swap from bank 1 to bank 2 ... meaning cylinder 1 with cylinder 4 .. cylinder 2 with 5 and 3 with 6...in my case I swapped 2 with 6 and the misfire followed proving the #2 coil was the culprit..
Hope this helps somebody...[/QUOTE]
I run trough such problem a year ago. Pump, filter, cleaned and checked injectors, coils, plugs, all in good order. No luck. No lean codes, nothing. Persistent misfire on 1st cylinder, only on cold engine (and it is UAE cold, means about 18C and below, but not really cold))
Yes you scan fuel trims and MAF reading, but at the moment of cylinder misfire they might be uninformative, as it is cold engine and you get that misfire right after engine exits close loop (or even while running it), and at that time trims might be unstable anyway.
Run smoke test, and you might find some leak somewhere - not big enough to trough a code, but enough to confuse DME (you said you checked for leaks, how did you do that?) In my case i found slight leak at vent hose in CCV connection.
And after everything possible is ruled out, it leaves you dirty hydraulic lifter. While it is cold engine, there is a gap which disappears in a minute as soon s engine gets warmer. It might not give you obvious ticking sound but still enough to
make cylinder work wrong.
At Russian forums many people claim they fix it with replacing lifters. I do not think you are ready for such procedure, so I would suggest if you could try cleaning process first. You might be skeptical to the procedure, so I do not insist, but if nothing else helps, you could try that one (again, you must rule out everything else first). Ultimate engine flush process, part 1.
Yes you scan fuel trims and MAF reading, but at the moment of cylinder misfire they might be uninformative, as it is cold engine and you get that misfire right after engine exits close loop (or even while running it), and at that time trims might be unstable anyway.
Run smoke test, and you might find some leak somewhere - not big enough to trough a code, but enough to confuse DME (you said you checked for leaks, how did you do that?) In my case i found slight leak at vent hose in CCV connection.
And after everything possible is ruled out, it leaves you dirty hydraulic lifter. While it is cold engine, there is a gap which disappears in a minute as soon s engine gets warmer. It might not give you obvious ticking sound but still enough to
make cylinder work wrong.
At Russian forums many people claim they fix it with replacing lifters. I do not think you are ready for such procedure, so I would suggest if you could try cleaning process first. You might be skeptical to the procedure, so I do not insist, but if nothing else helps, you could try that one (again, you must rule out everything else first). Ultimate engine flush process, part 1.
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