Issue:
Push the clutch pedal in, takes less force than normal to push in, car won't go into gear. Jack up the rear wheels, goes into gear but wheels turn even with the clutch pedal in, let the clutch out and a small change in noise at first, push the cluch pedal in, press lightly on the brake, makes whirling noise like the clutch disc is spinning on the flywheel. Obviously the pressure plate is not disengaging all the way if any.
Here's what I did:
Bought a new Bavarian Autosport Clutch Kit. Pulled the trans. Removed the old pressure plate and clutch disc. Changed the trans mainshaft seal, pivot pin, and throw out bearing. Mounted up the new clutch disc and pressure plate using the alignment tool. Torqued the pressure plate bolts in a criss cross pattern. Removed the pressure plate shipping plate with 14 mm allen. Removed the alignment tool. Bolted the trans and everything else back up. Issue found. I pulled the trans back off, only took an hour this time.
Thoughts:
1. I don't think it is the slave for several reasons. When I removed it the first time I simply put it aside and did nothing with the line. It was not leaking. It should not have changed. I did test it by clamping the rod compressed and pressing on the pedal which was rock hard. I even let the rod out some and pressed on the pedal but it was still hard. I did bleed it and saw no change.
2. I don't think the fork came off the pin. I can see it through the slave hole and when I go to install the slave I have to compress the rod a good inch before I can put the nuts on the studs. That tells me it is hitting the fork and everything is lned up. This was confirmed when I pulled the trans.
3. Pressure plate is LUK part number LC 2165 LUK 2 A 10. Throw out bearing is INA F-240424 G01 BR. It's about 23mm (.90") from the front to the face it meets the fork. Bavarian Autosport is telling me that there is only one self adjusting clutch so it couldn't be the wrong one.
Questions:
1. Could it be the wrong throw out bearing? Not thick enough? I didn't notice a major different between it and the stock one. Not likely.
2. What happens when the shipping plate is removed before being installed? I didn't do that but this makes me think something happened http://blog.bavauto.com/11334/bmw-self-adjusting-clutch-sac-diy-how-to-replace/ "If the proper procedure is not followed, during installation, the clutch assembly will not operate properly. This typically results in a clutch that will not release once everything is reassembled." Could the plate have been bad or damaged in shipping?
3. Could I have damaged the plate or messed something up when installing the transmission?
I've done clutches on Mazda's, Honda's, Acura's, Mitsubishi's, etc and this wasn't too different other than the self adjusting part.
TIA!
Mike
Push the clutch pedal in, takes less force than normal to push in, car won't go into gear. Jack up the rear wheels, goes into gear but wheels turn even with the clutch pedal in, let the clutch out and a small change in noise at first, push the cluch pedal in, press lightly on the brake, makes whirling noise like the clutch disc is spinning on the flywheel. Obviously the pressure plate is not disengaging all the way if any.
Here's what I did:
Bought a new Bavarian Autosport Clutch Kit. Pulled the trans. Removed the old pressure plate and clutch disc. Changed the trans mainshaft seal, pivot pin, and throw out bearing. Mounted up the new clutch disc and pressure plate using the alignment tool. Torqued the pressure plate bolts in a criss cross pattern. Removed the pressure plate shipping plate with 14 mm allen. Removed the alignment tool. Bolted the trans and everything else back up. Issue found. I pulled the trans back off, only took an hour this time.
Thoughts:
1. I don't think it is the slave for several reasons. When I removed it the first time I simply put it aside and did nothing with the line. It was not leaking. It should not have changed. I did test it by clamping the rod compressed and pressing on the pedal which was rock hard. I even let the rod out some and pressed on the pedal but it was still hard. I did bleed it and saw no change.
2. I don't think the fork came off the pin. I can see it through the slave hole and when I go to install the slave I have to compress the rod a good inch before I can put the nuts on the studs. That tells me it is hitting the fork and everything is lned up. This was confirmed when I pulled the trans.
3. Pressure plate is LUK part number LC 2165 LUK 2 A 10. Throw out bearing is INA F-240424 G01 BR. It's about 23mm (.90") from the front to the face it meets the fork. Bavarian Autosport is telling me that there is only one self adjusting clutch so it couldn't be the wrong one.
Questions:
1. Could it be the wrong throw out bearing? Not thick enough? I didn't notice a major different between it and the stock one. Not likely.
2. What happens when the shipping plate is removed before being installed? I didn't do that but this makes me think something happened http://blog.bavauto.com/11334/bmw-self-adjusting-clutch-sac-diy-how-to-replace/ "If the proper procedure is not followed, during installation, the clutch assembly will not operate properly. This typically results in a clutch that will not release once everything is reassembled." Could the plate have been bad or damaged in shipping?
3. Could I have damaged the plate or messed something up when installing the transmission?
I've done clutches on Mazda's, Honda's, Acura's, Mitsubishi's, etc and this wasn't too different other than the self adjusting part.
TIA!
Mike
