I think the general state is that ceramic last longer and you'll have less dust but the breaking power is less. Two hard surfaces equal less bite. I guess it depends on what you're looking for.

I would def get coated rotors though.

A good explanation about options

Rotor engineering characteristics
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8

Pad engineering characteristics
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOzd5o8B7eA

Quick overview of pad types (pros/cons, history)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7vH8IRbjEc

 

I just put Ceramic Pads on the front 200 miles ago. So far, so good. The OEM rotors were in 90% condition with hardly a discernible lip.

 

It's hard to improve on general use pads from the factory for a car that just sees general use. Ceramic pads will produce less dust, but they need higher operating temps to work well, and they are prone to making more noise, especially at the moment of full stop or immediately before that.

When hard pads are used, people tend to complain that they squeal as the car is coming to a stop at a sign or light. Soft pads are quiet, but they make more dust. Hard pads are low dust, but they make more noise.

 

B3M4 thanks for the information and I appreciate the help. When you suggest coated disks I assume you mean ceramic coated disks correct?

 

Probably zinc coated to prevent rust. Ceramic coat is used on paint to prevent water from "sticking" on it (beading up)

 

Thanks to all that responded. I am pleased and it makes my brake decisions a lot clearer. As I have said this is my daily smile ride and not a race car.

 

DropTop6, this is what I mean by coated rotors. It shouldn't cost much more but will last longer and look WAY better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZIVH6In4zM

 

Tried a bunch of different pads over the years. Nowadays, I use Textar pads almost exclusively.

Front - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-pad-set-front-textar-d946t

Rear - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-pad-set-rear-d936t

Don't forget a light coat of Permatex Ceramic on the back of the pads prior to install:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-8oz-bottle-24125

 

Stick with Knight says.

 

I put a set of Bosch Quiet Casts from AutohausAZ on my '02 330i that worked fine and made practically no dust at all. I was impressed with how clean they were.

 

I definitely recommend Zinc coated rotors in any rust-prone environments, or really anywhere. You can buy rotors with other coatings (enamel, powdercoating, ect), but I have had the best results from the zinc coated ones, as it is chemically bonded to the steel, and does not flake off or corrode through. What everyone else is saying about pads is correct and really just a preference. I use ceramic all around, as I prefer not to clean my wheels, and the ceramic dust cleans off much easier if it does build up.

On the topic of drilled vs slotted vs smooth rotors (all should be vented) I prefer factory smooth rotors to increase pad life. If it was a track car, I might use slotted rotors for better bite, but never drilled. too much compromise of integrity to the rotor to be reliable.IMHO.

I would also recommend doing calipers/ hoses and brake fluid flush all at the same time. All of our cars are old, and it is time if you have not done so already.
Happy braking!

After my experience with low dust pads (not sure what brand they are, PO installed them and they still have 70% life left on them), I can't wait to get rid of these! I bought jurid and textar pads and I'm hoping there's a huge difference. I hate these pads

 

I have a convertible and an aversion to brake dust. I got Akebono ceramic and now have no brake dust. I don't race, so I am happy with the performance. I believe people who say they have less bite, but that want my priority.

 

Akebono Euro pads and Zimmerman coated rotors is the way to go. Especially if you don't race your car.

 

textar on bmw, ake on mazda3

 

Zimmerman probably makes the best rotor for our cars. No need for drilled or slotted or the two piece rotor if your aren't tracking the car. I have textar pads on right now. They brake hard and have the factory feel to them... And the factory brake dust. ***x1f642; +1 on bleeding the brakes when you do this job.

 

I just finished putting on Zimmerman rotors and jurid + textar pads. Definitely need to bleed/flush out the old fluid as it's black

 

Word to the wise, have some extra bled screws laying around just in case you snap the head off one or all of them. You may need an extractor and maybe even a blow torch if it is really stuck in there. My son has a 2001 325i that I guess never had the brakes bled. When I went to bleed the brakes I snapped off one of the bleeder screws and then snapped off the extractor trying to the bleed screw out. :ben: At that point I figured I would just replace the caliper, get the bleed screw out once I had the caliper off and send back to ECS Tuning for the core deposit. Not too expensive... right? So I ordered the Centric replacement, got the caliper, put it on the car and low and behold the bracket that comes with the caliper DOES NOT FIT! :censor: Therefore I can't get my core deposit back which totally sucks. But on the plus side my son's car does have a new caliper and I got all four corners and the clutch bled.

 

Mine is a California car so I wouldn't expect too much rust, but the rotors and rims were surprisingly more stuck that expected. That probably has to do with the fact that they've never been removed most likely. I'll spray some penetrating fluid before trying to crack open the bleeder.
I was considering buying 4 new bleed screws but that comes to a total of $40. I only considered it because of the video by 50skid where there was endless bubbling

 

Akebono Euro pads and Zimmerman coated rotors is the way to go.

I agree. Wish I knew about FCP before I got new pads and rotors 2 years ago. Pads are still fine. Rotors already rusted at non contact points. Obviously just surface rust after 2 years but still... disgusting. I told the mech I wanted rotors hat don't rust, he said fine. Put that **** on. I was in a hurry... moving to a diff city... couldn't afford to lose time and have him re-order. Putting raw metal rotors on a car like this is... Wish I would have done the research and ordered the parts myself two years ago.

I will prob get Akebono ceramic pads and Zimmerman coated rotors when it's time again.

The only thing is that on FCP all zimmerman coated rotors are drilled... and drilled is not good (check engineering explained video in thread) The solid Zimms at FCP don't look coated. I think the solid brembo rotors are coated with the brembo metalic grey paint... not as nice as the zinc.

Akebono Euro pads and Zimmerman coated rotors

 

I agree. Wish I knew about FCP before I got new pads and rotors 2 years ago. Pads are still fine. Rotors already rusted at non contact points. Obviously just surface rust after 2 years but still... disgusting. I told the mech I wanted rotors hat don't rust, he said fine. Put that **** on. I was in a hurry... moving to a diff city... couldn't afford to lose time and have him re-order. Putting raw metal rotors on a car like this is... Wish I would have done the research and ordered the parts myself two years ago.

I will prob get Akebono ceramic pads and Zimmerman coated rotors when it's time again.

The only thing is that on FCP all zimmerman coated rotors are drilled... and drilled is not good (check engineering explained video in thread) The solid ones don't look coated. I think the brembo rotors are coated with the brembo metalic grey paint... not as nice as the zinc.

Akebono Euro pads and Zimmerman coated rotors

Fcp euro sells solid coated Zimmerman rotors. I just put them on today
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-disc-front-e46-z3-z4-34116855152
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-disc-rear-e46-34211165563z

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-and-...005&rk=1&rkt=12&sd=291420141418&itm=302321289525&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Got those, no shame. They were kind of weak at first, took maybe a month/1000 miles to break in, but then everything just clicked. Very predictable feel, grab pretty hard, saved my ass a few times from accidents (almost t-boned a car crossing the street. Only issues is after rain, there's a squeal for the first 10 seconds of moving (maybe rotor oxidation? idk), after that they are silent.

 

Sweet. That's a sweet looking rotor. Too bad it tells me it doesn't fit a 323i 1999. I only get drilled Zimms. Brembos are solid for me on FCP. I don't like the Brembo look. That Bremobo paint is really poor quality. Scratches off so easy. A friend put them on an X3 and they are all scratched up. Plus I can't imagine the fins are properly painted. Zinc coating covers the entire surface. Much better and looks way nicer imo.

 

You can get some bleed screws at AutoZone or O'Reilly's fairly cheap actually... but you are in Cali so I'm sure it would cost a little more than where I'm located. I used the Motive bleeder to bleed the breaks on all the beemers in the garage and it makes the job easy and pretty much stress free. Highly recommend it. I too enjoy the 50'skid videos. They have helped me prepair to do the work on multiple occasions. I think the Zimmerman rotor your looking for is 34116864060. It's not a kit but it is the smooth Zimmerman rotor for a 1999 323i. Double check it though.

 

I've used Textar and a variety of different 'blank' rotors...any of those from FCP euro, other than the cheapest, are perfectly fine. But you want brakes to stop, so 'dusting' shouldn't be among the characteristics you care about in them. Just stopping. Textar are the OE makers...a couple others are too all with the same semi-metallic compound.

 

That's true dmax.

Thanks oldpro40. I also watch the 50s kid vids. Cool guy.

 

Just finished bleeding my brakes. Initially, I felt no difference. The brakes only had 15 miles on them. I drove to autozone to recycle the old fluid and the brakes got better and better. Can't wait until I surpass 100 miles and they're fully broken in

 

I truly enjoy the performance improvement that I get from recycling!

 

@armenh7
Enjoy your amazing looking new brakes. Getting a nice setup like that actually makes you want to break on corners... Must be a joy. With the crappy brakes my mech put on two years ago I don't even bother braking around corners (or just a tap to slow down to about 40km/h from 60 or 80 and then jank the steering wheel to feel the G's. So, technically we could argue that it's a safety improvement. Should call your insurance and ask for a discount. "Hey, I got some sweet Zimms and ceramic pads... I now slow down for corners and everything... what do ya say?" Better than fog lights me thinks.

 

Haha thanks for that

 

I'll chime in. When I bought my car 1.5 years ago the pads and rotors were worn and also made the wheels a dusty dirty mess. I changed disks and used Akebono ceramic pads. I took the wheels off and cleaned them thoroughly, front and back. (My neighbor laughed and said, "Wow, you really detail your car!") The wheels stay clean, the pads make zero noise, and stopping power is just fine. Not a racer, just a daily driver.

 

I've used Akebono's on multiple vehicles without issue. They get a bad rap sometimes because people criticize the lack of "bite" that is felt when depressing the brake pedal. I've even read some exaggerations were people thought that stopping power was dangerously compromised with them.

Regarding the bite, Textar or Jurid pads have a extra sharpness to how they feel. Some like them, some don't. After trying both on the E46, I confirmed I prefer that feeling and decided to use Textar moving forward. No complaints.

Regarding the braking ability itself, as in the vehicle's ability to come to stop (leisurely or suddenly), I've never experienced anything that felt dangerous or diminished...and I've had to make a few very hard panic stops before so this was put to the test in real world driving.

As for brake dust with non-ceramic pads, it's really NBD. Get a monthly unlimited pass at a well-rated local car wash or invest in some Sonax and a power washer.

Obviously, I am speaking to the scope of a daily driver that gets some exercise on a nice road here and there. For AutoX or track applications, Akebono's are far from the best option.