BMW builds understeer in for "easier" daily driving.

I dont think you can even get to -2* with the OEM control arms in the rear, can you?

 

I got -1.9* in the rear on my alignment this morning but I'm regretting that I didn't have them take some of the camber out of the rear to improve the balance. I may take it back or change it next time but want to see if I'm right about this first.

 

See how much camber in the front you can put...maybe get camber plates to run about -2 in the front?

 

I don't even recall what BMW specs are but I am guessing they have different specs for different e46s? Coupes, sedans, wagons, whether sports package, etc.

My stock rear arms can stretch to -2.5deg.

 

I took out a little of my rear negative camber.

My rear alignment is set at -1.5 camber 1/16th toe in. I also am a weekend racer like you. I am also running -3 camber up front with slight toe out with maxed caster on my camber/caster plates. I am also aware of poor tire wearing but the car handles like a dream! This is matched up to TC Kline DA Coilovers that are cornerbalanced.

Hope this helps!

 

:hi:
That's the same setup I'm running right now with TCK camber plates up front! ...like a dream...impin:

 

OK. I got the poop straight from a former Nat'l autox champion. He said for running with OEM spec camber in front (approx. -1.0 degree), then it is beneficial to drop the rear camber well below the stock spec to somewhere closer to -0.75 degrees. This will help with the front/rear balance.

 

Keep in mind that autox suspension and track suspension setups are not the same.

Tim

 

Please explain. In my experience, autox and track setups are very similar (and much more similar to each other than either is to a street setup). You might want a bit more stability, especially high speed stability, for track work where for autox you want a car that's easier to flick around cones, even to the point of being a bit darty. So, you can tolerate more front toe out and possibly a greater tendency for oversteer for autox than you might want on the track but camber and caster settings are pretty similar (both trying to maximize cornering forces and have the car be easy to control at the limit of adhesion). I typically use a hybrid setup with the toe at zero all around and the sway bars/shocks adjusted for slight understeer to neutral (then use trailing braking/throttle get the car to turn better).

What did you have in mind? Am I missing something?

 

I'm running 0.75 camber at the rear, and 1 at the front, 0.1 degrees of toe in at the back, and 0.1 degrees of toe out at the front, works nicely, makes the car very predictable in its loss of traction, so I can enter corners with a very slight oversteer on a wider line and get the power on nice and early before the late apex.