I’m having problems with the fuel gauge on my BMW e46 2000 3 Series. The needle doesn’t fluctuate and is always idle, even when fuel is put in. I’ve seen it fluctuate a few times but it’s idle the majority of the time. The fuel light always stays on as well and never turns off when the car is started or running. Could it be the fuel filter underneath the back seat or a instrument cluster fuse blown? I’d like to know if anyone has had the same issue or knows what the problem could be. If someone has any kind of solution, link me to something or let me know anything that could be affecting the problem. It would be much appreciated as it could save me a lot of money paying for a mechanic to look at it, thank you!
Conjured
You need to unlock the cluster and go to test #6, 6.1 & 6.2 Then evaluate the two sensors. The gauge displays an average of the two. Often one is not right.
To add to MrMCar’s excellent advice, the fuel pump is located under the rear passenger seat bottom on the right side of the car. The pump has a fuel level sender. The fuel level sender can go bad. FYI, the fuel filter is located under the car, under (left hand drive) the drivers seat, behind a metal panel held in place with 10mm nuts.
There are two fuel level sensors. One on the left side of the tank and one on the right side. First thing is to follow MrMCar’s instructions to see if the readings from the sensors make sense based on how much gas you believe is in the tank. If only one reading is off then possibly a bad level sending unit. If both are bad then maybe a cluster problem.
Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
I had a similar issue last year, turned out to be the fuel level sensor built into the pump.
Great advice here as always, start with the gauge cluster tests to see what is being reported, and you can always pull the sensor on the left or fuel pump on the right and put a multimeter on it to confirm the values.
Fuel pump and level sensor on the left are extremely easy to access!
Great advice here as always, start with the gauge cluster tests to see what is being reported, and you can always pull the sensor on the left or fuel pump on the right and put a multimeter on it to confirm the values.
Fuel pump and level sensor on the left are extremely easy to access!
I came onto this forum as I’ve just bought an E46 and suffered the same issue when I filled the car up for the first time; gauge went from 1/4 to empty with light on after I started engine driving away from petrol station.
I tried a reset on the cluster but this had no effect and the needle was stuck on empty.
I drove around like that for a week, reading all the suggestions to fix and watching some YouTube tutorial videos for removing the fuel pump as my diagnostic tool threw out C7 Tank-Lever type sensor 1 as a fault code.
Just before I bit the bullet and started the workmy wife borrowed the car and she stalled it. This actually fixed the issue and the fuel gauge is now working correctly and showing 3/4 full which fits with the mileage I’ve done since filling up.
Might not work for everyone, but thought I’d post a reply as it’s worth giving it a go if it saves some time, effort and money for someone else.
Try STALLING YOUR CAR!
I tried a reset on the cluster but this had no effect and the needle was stuck on empty.
I drove around like that for a week, reading all the suggestions to fix and watching some YouTube tutorial videos for removing the fuel pump as my diagnostic tool threw out C7 Tank-Lever type sensor 1 as a fault code.
Just before I bit the bullet and started the workmy wife borrowed the car and she stalled it. This actually fixed the issue and the fuel gauge is now working correctly and showing 3/4 full which fits with the mileage I’ve done since filling up.
Might not work for everyone, but thought I’d post a reply as it’s worth giving it a go if it saves some time, effort and money for someone else.
Try STALLING YOUR CAR!
Gday,
What the other posters have said.
I’ve done this on a few e46’s, and it’s fixed each one. 15-30 min job. Fairly easy. I’ve been successful cleaning them, even when they haven’t worked. Haven’t had to buy a sendor/sensor although they do fail too btw
Run the tank down, remove rear seat, remove covers on both left and right tank units (one is pump and intergrated level sender, other is just a level sensor)
Disconnect battery
Remove unit multi plug, has a funky quick release connector, which locks in place. YouTube it. It’s really simple and is similar to quick connector plug on back of radio iirc
Remove both locking rings holding the units in (by tapping them around with suitable tool and mallet)
Remove units , you’ll be able to see level sender/sensor and prob how dirty it is - blackish from the fuel.
Caution - now you’ll be able to see exposed fuel (and flammable) vapours straight inside the tank
Clean sendor/sensor “track” with carbi cleaner or similar
Reassemble
Don’t f@!k it up and burn car down in driveway / garage !
(seriously, use well ventilated area for fumes etc) , no sources of ignition
There is a write up somewhere on e46F I think, which has a calibration check step, involving turning on ignition whilst both units are out of the tank, with level sensors /float are at the bottom of their travel whilst checking step 6 on the cluster, whereby both levels should read zero, ie zero fuel in tank
What the other posters have said.
I’ve done this on a few e46’s, and it’s fixed each one. 15-30 min job. Fairly easy. I’ve been successful cleaning them, even when they haven’t worked. Haven’t had to buy a sendor/sensor although they do fail too btw
Run the tank down, remove rear seat, remove covers on both left and right tank units (one is pump and intergrated level sender, other is just a level sensor)
Disconnect battery
Remove unit multi plug, has a funky quick release connector, which locks in place. YouTube it. It’s really simple and is similar to quick connector plug on back of radio iirc
Remove both locking rings holding the units in (by tapping them around with suitable tool and mallet)
Remove units , you’ll be able to see level sender/sensor and prob how dirty it is - blackish from the fuel.
Caution - now you’ll be able to see exposed fuel (and flammable) vapours straight inside the tank
Clean sendor/sensor “track” with carbi cleaner or similar
Reassemble
Don’t f@!k it up and burn car down in driveway / garage !
(seriously, use well ventilated area for fumes etc) , no sources of ignition
There is a write up somewhere on e46F I think, which has a calibration check step, involving turning on ignition whilst both units are out of the tank, with level sensors /float are at the bottom of their travel whilst checking step 6 on the cluster, whereby both levels should read zero, ie zero fuel in tank
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