[Sapote]

No need to spend $450 for Kit 1090.

I bought the tools and 14 Timesert pieces total about $100 on Amazon here:

Bought Time-sert kit and 14 24.5 M10 x 1.5 time-serts from Amazone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JK448O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPMR4B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's all I needed for the job.

 

[Effduration]

Sapote is correct, you don't NEED kit 1090. but it sure makes easy work of the job. I don't think he has tried using kit 1090.

With all due respect, Sapote also seems to be forgetting his own experience. It can be found here:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...com/forum/showthread.php?1641019-cylinder-3-has-water-hydro-locked-HELP!!/page3

It took him 14 hours to drill/ tap 14 holes.
One hole was drilled so off center that he worried it wouldn't hold the timesert and he ended up JB welding it in.
The drill bit he used kept catching
His amazon link for timesert tools says " Kit is not for head bolt repair"

Kit 1090 has none of these issues and it takes me 15-20 mins per hole.
The drill bit (with a 1/2 inch drill) drills proper length with countersink in one try.

I can tell you used timesert 1090 kits sell on Ebay for $350-$375. I have bought, used, and resold for $100 or less net cost.

 

[LeverThis]

You really want time-sert kit 1090 ....

Timesert tips
- tape the block after cleaning with clear packing tape to keep alum chips out of engine.
- get a 1/2 inch drill* - not a cheap/old 3/8 drill for drilling - huge difference
- Use a medium to large size tap handle
- Thread in a couple of old head bolts into the other holes to help you align drill/tap
- It is a slow process. With the jig (bolting/unbolting) it takes me 15 mins a hole.

* NOTE: on the e46, you may need a right angle drill for the last two holes closest to firewall when the block is still in the car like yours.

Effduration,

Would a right angle drill attachment on a regular 1/2" inch drill suffice if doing this with the block in situ?

 

[Sapote]

It took him 14 hours to drill/ tap 14 holes.
One hole was drilled so off center that he worried it wouldn't hold the timesert and he ended up JB welding it in.
The drill bit he used kept catching
.

It was not drilled off center, but was tapped off center. So I think even if I had used the 1090 kit I still could tap it off center if not really careful. I should have used a 22mms socket for checking the tap bit square to the block to avoid off center issue.

Yes, it took me 14 hrs to perfectly drill 14 holes with the old threads bc I tried not to break drill bit. So what makes using the 1090 kit's drill bit doesn't jam? Overpowered it with a big powerful drill gun?

 

[Effduration]

Effduration,

Would a right angle drill attachment on a regular 1/2" inch drill suffice if doing this with the block in situ?

I haven't tried using a right angle attachment. Good chance it works.

It was not drilled off center, but was tapped off center. So I think even if I had used the 1090 kit I still could tap it off center if not really careful.

Yes, it took me 14 hrs to perfectly drill 14 holes with the old threads bc I tried not to break drill bit. So what makes using the 1090 kit's drill bit doesn't jam? Overpowered it with a big powerful drill gun?

Drilling and tapping using kit 1090 is done through a jig and bushing. Both drill and tap are held straight to keep things centered.

Not sure exactly what caused your catching. The 1090 drill bit, which tapers down to 13/32 at the bottom is quit a bit bigger than the one in your kit. That drill bit, with a little WD40 as a cutting oil and using an appropriate 1/2 inch drill goes through m54 block holes like butter. I have done it a few times now.

 

[Sapote]

Not sure exactly what caused your catching.

The sharpe drill bit caught the old threads and jammed easily.

The 1090 drill bit, which tapers down to 13/32 at the bottom is quit a bit bigger than the one in your kit.

I don't follow. Unless you used larger Timersert, the standard Timesert for E46 required the right size drill bit, and so yours and mine should be same size. How can yours is bigger?

That drill bit, with a little WD40 as a cutting oil and using an appropriate 1/2 inch drill goes through m54 block holes like butter.

Were you using a hand drill or table drill? The sharp drill bit caught the threads just like a threaded bolt caught the female threads, and so unless you used a dull tip drill (not sharp), or a reamer bit. I don't think WD40 or any lube would prevent the bite using drill bit.

OP, to avoid the drill bit bite and jammed, use a reamer bit instead to remove the old threads, then do the final drill before tapping.

 

[Sapote]

In this video, the man used exactly the same Timesert tool and pieces as I did for around $100, not the expensive 1090 kit.

He used a drill press and avoided the drill bit catch and jam. But you can tell from the sound that the drill bit caught the threads and wanted to jam, but the drill press controlled the feeding, not a hand drill. Therefore I want to see a video shows anyone using a hand drill and avoid the drill bit jamming. Let's show it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXGm5_Vogy4

 

[Effduration]

In this video, the man used exactly the same Timesert tool and pieces as I did for around $100, not the expensive 1090 kit.

He used a drill press and avoided the drill bit catch and jam. But you can tell from the sound that the drill bit caught the threads and wanted to jam, but the drill press controlled the feeding, not a hand drill. Therefore I want to see a video shows anyone using a hand drill and avoid the drill bit jamming. Let's show it.

That video is close to meaningless to the OP who still has his block in the car. No drill press to keep things straight. But I think you're suggesting that all the time-sert drill bits catch - which is not the case. Here is a video of a first-timer using kit 1090. You see the drill bit at 5:50 and he demonstrates how he drills without catching - using a sturdy 1/2 drive right angle drill at 21:20 and elsewhere.

https://youtu.be/CpHDBW74kIo

the timesert drill bits you have catch when drilling head bolts for some reason.

 

[Tejas]

The sharpe drill bit caught the old threads and jammed easily.




I don't follow. Unless you used larger Timersert, the standard Timesert for E46 required the right size drill bit, and so yours and mine should be same size. How can yours is bigger?



Were you using a hand drill or table drill? The sharp drill bit caught the threads just like a threaded bolt caught the female threads, and so unless you used a dull tip drill (not sharp), or a reamer bit. I don't think WD40 or any lube would prevent the bite using drill bit.

OP, to avoid the drill bit bite and jammed, use a reamer bit instead to remove the old threads, then do the final drill before tapping.

Hey, thanks for all the advice. i just have one more doubt.

i went and bought the reamer bit and the m10x1.5 tap from home depot. i am also going to rent the drilling gun from home depot. now i found on amazon a time sert tap guide. i am thinking of getting that.

i am guessing even if i am really careful and have steady hands, drilling without a the plate can be dangerous as it can be off center. now to avoid that do you have any tips ? also to insert the time serts there is another tool which expands the time sert to make it fit tight. do i have to get the time sert kit or can i just buy that one tool from a hardware store ?

what tool is that ? can i insert the time serts without that tool ?? :hmm::hmm::banghead::banghead:

" EDIT " just realized i can use the head bolts to install the time serts like how 50s kid does it in his video.

the other things i really need advice on how to drill straight. !!!

 

[Sapote]

Drill straight is not the concern, because you drill into an existing hole ***x1f642;

But use the reamer to remove the threads first, then the final drill is easy and won't bite or jammed.

For tapping straight, go slow and use a 19 or 22 socket stands on the block to check for the tap bit straight-check around the bit on x and y . Use WD40 to lube the bit often, and remove the bit to clean off chips often to avoid jamming and breaking the bit. I didn't check the bit straightness using a socket and got off center on one hole.

Lube the old head bolt with grease before using it to drive the timesert home. When it bottomed, the head bolt will go through the insert and enlarger its OD to lock to the block, then you back out the bolt slowly so the insert doesn't follow (reason for greasing). I added jb weld to the insert external threads to bond it to the block all 14 inserts.

Edited: remove the 40 ft lbs torque on the insert bolt torque.

 

[Tejas]

Drill straight is not the concern, because you drill into an existing hole ***x1f642;

But use the reamer to remove the threads first, then the final drill is easy and won't bite or jammed.

For tapping straight, go slow and use a 19 or 22 socket stands on the block to check for the tap bit straight-check around the bit on x and y . Use WD40 to lube the bit often, and remove the bit to clean off chips often to avoid jamming and breaking the bit. I didn't check the bit straightness using a socket and got off center on one hole.

Lube the old head bolt with grease before using it to drive the timesert home. When it bottomed, the head bolt will go through the insert and enlarger its OD to lock to the block, then you back out the bolt slowly so the insert doesn't follow (reason for greasing). I added jb weld to the insert external threads to bond it to the block all 14 inserts.

Edited: remove the 40 ft lbs torque on the insert bolt torque.

i have started to clean the block using a low power tool. i have a gasket material removing attachment and it works like a charm. removed all the old gasket material.
i got a titanium 1/2 inch Bosch drill bit. but the drill bit is bigger than the existing hole. except for i think 2 or 3 holes, the rest are all small. it was mentioned earlier in the thread. i am still confused though. do i have to use a 1/2 inch drill ? what about for the counterbore ? what size should i use ?

TIA

" EDIT " - i accidentally bought a masonry drill bit instead of a regular drill bit..:banghead: with the hexagonal shank of 0.3125 inch dia at the tip the hole size will be too big for the tap. the hole needs to be at least 8.5mm in diameter. I guess i am going back to home depot tomorrow again. :banghead:

what about the counterbore ? what size can i use for that ? can i use this existing drill bit to drill the counter bore ? it fits exactly into the bigger holes on the bock.

pls help...

 

[Effduration]

Tejas I would slow down, take a breath and map this out.

The only way i have ever installed time-serts is with time-sert tools. You are attempting to install time-serts with drill bits and tools you are buying from Home Depot. This might be a challenge. You can get the proper drill bits, but the tap you have (m10 x1.5) is WRONG. The threads you are tapping in the block are for the threaded time-sert - the actual steel insert. The thread and pitch of the outer threads of the actual time-sert is bigger than M10 X 1.5 because the inner threads are M10 X 1.5. I think you need the proper Time-sert tap for the time-sert M10x1.5 insert.

I think I have the tap, which i can rent you. PM me.

Drill bits are not a problem.

In post #20 above I posted the following link

The timesert website lists drill bit sizes and the depth/diameter of the countersink.
http://www.timesert.com/html/engineeringdataM.html
you are using M10 x 1.5 x 24.5mm inserts

The link shows that for the M10 x 1.5 timesert you need a 13/32 drill bit for the main hole and a 1/2 drill bit for the countersink. Use the 13/32 drill to drill to the bottom of the existing hole (no further) and I would mark the depth of the hole with elec tape on the 13/32 drill bit.

The countersink per the link should be 0.085 inches deep which is approx 3/32's. I would mark that on the 1/2 drill bit. I would try to get close on the 0.085 measurement, but not critical because the 24.5mm time sert you're (hopefully) using is shorter than the hole in the block.

I would recommend you use a 1/2 inch drill (not drill bit) to drill these holes. And you will likely need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment for the last two holes closest to the firewall.

to keep things straight I would thread several old head bolts into the block and use them to line up your drill and tap by sight.
Remember to use clear packing tape on the block to keep alum chips out of the engine.

 

[Tejas]

Tejas I would slow down, take a breath and map this out.

The only way i have ever installed time-serts is with time-sert tools. You are attempting to install time-serts with drill bits and tools you are buying from Home Depot. This might be a challenge. You can get the proper drill bits, but the tap you have (m10 x1.5) is WRONG. The threads you are tapping in the block are for the threaded time-sert - the actual steel insert. The thread and pitch of the outer threads of the actual time-sert is bigger than M10 X 1.5 because the inner threads are M10 X 1.5. I think you need the proper Time-sert tap for the time-sert M10x1.5 insert.

I think I have the tap, which i can rent you. PM me.

Drill bits are not a problem.

In post #20 above I posted the following link

The timesert website lists drill bit sizes and the depth/diameter of the countersink.
http://www.timesert.com/html/engineeringdataM.html
you are using M10 x 1.5 x 24.5mm inserts

The link shows that for the M10 x 1.5 timesert you need a 13/32 drill bit for the main hole and a 1/2 drill bit for the countersink. Use the 13/32 drill to drill to the bottom of the existing hole (no further) and I would mark the depth of the hole with elec tape on the 13/32 drill bit.

The countersink per the link should be 0.085 inches deep which is approx 3/32's. I would mark that on the 1/2 drill bit. I would try to get close on the 0.085 measurement, but not critical because the 24.5mm time sert you're (hopefully) using is shorter than the hole in the block.

I would recommend you use a 1/2 inch drill (not drill bit) to drill these holes. And you will likely need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment for the last two holes closest to the firewall.

to keep things straight I would thread several old head bolts into the block and use them to line up your drill and tap by sight.
Remember to use clear packing tape on the block to keep alum chips out of the engine.

damn... i did not think of the bigger tap size... luckily i have a 40 piece tap set with the pithch gauge. i have the time serts too.. i will check the pitch.. if i am not wrong it should be m12x1.5. i have that too. i have the alignment tool from amazon for tapping.

i will get a 13/32 drill for drilling the threads out. whew.. thanks for replying so soon..

for the counter bore i will use my existing 1/2 inch drill bit.

 

[Effduration]

When you get a chance, please post a follow-up on the outer-diameter thread of the the m10 x1.5 time-sert. There are some online who say it is an odd-ball, proprietary thread and pitch and others who say it is a standard thread and pitch.

Since you're doing this with off the shelf tools, I would suggest you find a hunk of aluminum somewhere and do a test installation....

 

[Sapote]

OP, it's OK to buy tools from HD instead of the kit from Amazon that I suggested, to save money, BUT you need to research thoroughly and get the correct tap bit and the final drill bit, or the block is screwed.

 

[Tejas]

When you get a chance, please post a follow-up on the outer-diameter thread of the the m10 x1.5 time-sert. There are some online who say it is an odd-ball, proprietary thread and pitch and others who say it is a standard thread and pitch.

Since you're doing this with off the shelf tools, I would suggest you find a hunk of aluminum somewhere and do a test installation....

good news. i did check the outer diameter and the pitch of the time sert. it is in fact a M12x1.5. i used 50's kid engine rebuild series as a reference and used the exact sizes of drill bits he mentioned. 13/13 inch drill bit to drill out the threads and a 31/64 drill bit to drill the counter bore. its a snug fit. as suggested 1/2 inch drill bit for the counter bore might have worked better but this is good too.. its a real snug fit.


now to the mess up i did.

i taped the cylinders to keep the metal shavings from falling in. but since it was so cold and i had used brake cleaner to clean the block before applying the tape, it came out in the process and metal shavings fell into cylinder 2,3,4 &5.
i did not try to do anything except blow it out using compressed air as much as i could. i taped it back again and finished the job. there are still some metal chips that i can see but i have not yet attempted to take them out. i was thinking of blasting with brake cleaner or wd40 and high pressure water wash.

please do let me know what you think.

i accidentally left the hood open and it rained last night. there was water inside the cylinders and water has also gone to the oil pan through the space at where the timing chain is. i will be doing a complete oil flush. but is there anything i need to keep in mind or do anything special ?

oh and i forgot to mention that i replaced my OFHG too.. it was cracked and broken and what not..

anything else i can replace while the head and intake is out ? apart from the standard gaskets which i am changing out.

TIA

 

[Tejas]

OP, it's OK to buy tools from HD instead of the kit from Amazon that I suggested, to save money, BUT you need to research thoroughly and get the correct tap bit and the final drill bit, or the block is screwed.

i have mentioned in my earlier post about the correct sizes of the bits and tap.

i have few more questions though.

which is better ? locktite red 266 or JB weld metal ?

how long should i wait when i am torquing the head bolts after i install the time serts ?

and how long of a gap should i give bw the two 90degree turns after the initial 40nm torque ?

any suggestions or tips on installing the head back in ?

thanks for the tip on using a right angle drill. came in handy . i used it for all the holes. as you suggested 1/2 inch drill was good. did not get jammed and drilling was done in less than 2 hours in the stupid cold weather.

 

[Effduration]

Thanks for the follow-up. Interesting on the outer diameter sizing.

The 1/2 inch drill bit wasn't my suggestion, it was the specified counter-bore from Time-sert themselves that I provided a link to- twice. 50's kid is good, but when there is a discrepancy between 50's kid and Time-sert themselves, I am probably going with the Time-sert figures. You can lead a horse to water.....

Keeping chips and water out of the engine is important. Not sure how the chips got into FIVE cylinders. Blow them out with compressed air and change your oil a few times at initial start-up, 50 -100 miles, 500-1000 miles, etc.

 

[Tejas]

Thanks for the follow-up. Interesting on the outer diameter sizing.

The 1/2 inch drill bit wasn't my suggestion, it was the specified counter-bore from Time-sert themselves that I provided a link to- twice. 50's kid is good, but when there is a discrepancy between 50's kid and Time-sert themselves, I am probably going with the Time-sert figures. You can lead a horse to water.....

Keeping chips and water out of the engine is important. Not sure how the chips got into FIVE cylinders. Blow them out with compressed air and change your oil a few times at initial start-up, 50 -100 miles, 500-1000 miles, etc.

the tape lifted out while drilling and few small chunks fell into the cylinders. i noticed it later. anyways i will use some wd40 and high pressure water hose to clean it out. i will change out the oil as you have suggested.

its not that i did not want to use the 1/2 inch drill for the counter bore but its a minute difference and i just went with a smaller one since i could see in the video that it fits perfectly.

i will be using the alignment tool to tap tomorrow.

i will try and upload some pictures post completion.

one more question . JB weld metal or red loctite 266 ?

i will keep the thread updated until i drive 1000-2000 miles.

thanks.

 

[Sapote]

Hot engine will soft Loctite, so use Jb weld.
Chips in cylinders: i taped off the coolant and oil small openings, but I choose not to tape cover the cylinders during drill and tap ***8212; aluminum chips are soft. Once done, I vacuumed the chips and sharpened a toothpick and picked out any in between piston and cylinder. Don***8217;t worry for those very small chips. Try to pick them off the cylinders but don***8217;t use compress air or water, as the high pressure would force the chips in between piston and cylinder.

I had posted about how I install the head. Don***8217;t break the chain guide, and don***8217;t hit the new gasket by the head.