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One quick question, are the parking brake cable sleeves attached to the trailing arm in any way, or just sandwiched between the chassis and the trailing arm? On the fourth arm the sleeve came loose and I was wondering if i have to remove the parking brake to reattach from inside?
No, just sandwhiched and when you reassemble just push it in and that will engage on the parking brake mechanism. Also there should be a small rubber boot/grommet on the end that will seal in the trailing arm bore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
No, just sandwiched and when you reassemble just push it in and that will engage on the parking brake mechanism. Also there should be a small rubber boot/grommet on the end that will seal in the trailing arm bore.
I don't see any grommet - just the metal end shown in the picture. On the ZHP trailing arms, I disassembled the parking brake shoes and hardware and located the metal nub back into the expanding lock and neither cable came loose from the trailing arm, so I paid no attention. On these 325 arms, I did not remove the parking brakes at all. One stayed put, this one came loose as shown. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
I will see if I can locate the natural colored plastic piece. Is that floating in between, or affixed to the metal collar behind it?

Office supplies Tool Tobacco Wood Font
 

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2001 325i Touring. 5-speed manual. Formerly automatic.
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One of mine is mangled as well and the actual sheath is also detached from the drum. Seems like it’s still fully functional so I’ll just going to run with it for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 · (Edited)
It probably just keeps road grime out of the back from getting inside the parking brake area and contaminating the inner cable. I might just add some red or ultra black sealant before I run it back into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
So I started swapping the diff flanges yesterday and I think I wasted a pair of seals. I have been using this opportunity of doing two rebuilds to compare various brands of parts. I bought BMW output seals for one and Corteco for the other. The BMW ones took a fair bit more hammer force to get them into the diff, so when I installed the Corteco ones, I knocked them a decent amount past the depth that the original seals were installed. I guess I will buy a new pair and try again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
All 34 bushings are now complete and I will start reassembly on the wagon soon and the ZHP when the weather dries up.

As far as I could tell they all needed attention except the upper control arm inners and both lower control arm bushings. Those seemed fine. Upper control arm inners were tough as you need a pretty specific size sleeve to press them. RTABs were the trickiest for reassembly due to the split design of the metal of the oem bushings
Definitely just buy lower control arms, as the design of the arm makes it tough to press the bushing in or out without bending the arm or needing to make a spacer to keep it spread the right amount.

It was a lot easier than the 24 bushings I did on an LR3 a couple years ago...
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive parking light


More progress this evening. I'll let it rest overnight and torque the arm bushings at ride height tomorrow. Funny looking when the rear rotors are larger than the front 😋
 

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2001 325i Touring. 5-speed manual. Formerly automatic.
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View attachment 937313

More progress this evening. I'll let it rest overnight and torque the arm bushings at ride height tomorrow. Funny looking when the rear rotors are larger than the front 😋
Looking good! 372? Twinsie?

We’re on the same path. I’ve just did the same with my rear end.

Awesome progress though. Hope you’ll get back on the road soon. I think mine has spent more time on the stands than on the road under my ownership.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Looking good! 372? Twinsie?

We’re on the same path. I’ve just did the same with my rear end.

Awesome progress though. Hope you’ll get back on the road soon. I think mine has spent more time on the stands than on the road under my ownership.
Yes, Stahlblau. I wasn't picky with the color when I first bought it, was looking for RWD, sport and manual with no rust, so I bought what I could find, but after having it for awhile I absolutely love the color. Not that I didn't like it, but I just hadn't really even considered the color until after it was delivered.

I have been following your thread. Looks like a pretty good deal for $700 :cool:

I am in no specific hurry with the wagon, but do hope to get the ZHP back together for my son as quickly as I can. But I do these things for fun, so no need to rush myself. That's when the fun disappears. So far this has been a great project. Only complaint is all the cleaning of 34 collective years of road grime from these two undersides. Luckily they are very unmolested examples, so I'm not finding any surprises left by previous hacks. This will be the 4th and 5th E46 I have done significant restoration / refresh work to, but first to be stripped down this far, so there is still fun to be had learning new things.
 

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2001 325i Touring. 5-speed manual. Formerly automatic.
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Yes, Stahlblau. I wasn't picky with the color when I first bought it, was looking for RWD, sport and manual with no rust, so I bought what I could find, but after having it for awhile I absolutely love the color. Not that I didn't like it, but I just hadn't really even considered the color until after it was delivered.

I have been following your thread. Looks like a pretty good deal for $700 :cool:

I am in no specific hurry with the wagon, but do hope to get the ZHP back together for my son as quickly as I can. But I do these things for fun, so no need to rush myself. That's when the fun disappears. So far this has been a great project. Only complaint is all the cleaning of 34 collective years of road grime from these two undersides. Luckily they are very unmolested examples, so I'm not finding any surprises left by previous hacks. This will be the 4th and 5th E46 I have done significant restoration / refresh work to, but first to be stripped down this far, so there is still fun to be had learning new things.
Same here with the color. I’ve learned to like it a lot more now that I get to stare at it more often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Question:

I am starting the engine swaps next weekend. What parts are a must change when swapping an engine? I already have the transmissions off and have rebuilt the all the intake, ccv, pulley, all common engine bay stuff previously, so I plan to pull them with the intake and wire harness attached. Just looking for the must do items like engine mounts and stuff that are easiest to do while I am at it. I already have rear main seals and oil pan gaskets for both... @Archbid I know you have a list already ;)

Thanks!

BTW, I have the rear from the diff back almost totally complete on both. I meant to grab a picture, but I will get one soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Of course I do. Have I sent it to you already?
Yes you have :)
But for those of you who have done engine swaps before was just wondering if there is a subset that is best when just pulling one and dropping in another - engine not stripped to the block on either.

Going through your list, here is what I have:

All of the shifter parts have already been done.
I have the ZHP flex disc, but not the M3 version. I will research the difference.
center support bearing
butyl tape
What is the intermediate ring? I have refreshed a drive shaft before and don't remember that part.
LUK clutch kit and flywheel
flywheel and pressure plate bolts
Clutch fork pivot pin - What are your thoughts on plastic vs brass vs steel?
I thought I saw the clutch fork spring in the kit, I will verify.
Engine mounts - again, I have the ZHP part, I will research M3 difference
Oil pan gasket
rear main seal
Coolant drain plug washer
exhaust gaskets
copper nuts
exhaust bolts
exhaust to trans brackets and bolt
D4ATF
Power steering reservoir and pump gasket

I think I am just panicking because I have a helper and want to prevent a hang-up once he arrives.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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I would only add that you should replace the nuts on the flex disc bolts but not required.

Consider the starter and the crankshaft sensor if they are original.

m3 flex disc and mounts not really necessary.
 
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