Yes, my bad, the stud is the expensive part. The nut is cheap. On my last one the studs were not salvageable. I am hoping to reuse these. Fingers crossed - most likely all of them have never been off.
I asked myself this same question for all the ball joints and bushings. Then l realized that wouldn’t want to go back in there anytime soon so I went for it.Do you think I must absolutely change all 8 control arm bushings? It would save a ton of work. The front subframe bushings and the two small front diff bushings look fine. Even the trans mounts look fine. But the rear diff bushing was the worst, and the rear subframe bushings and guibo look like they started to give up pretty recently.
I dropped my entire subframe with control arms, Axels and trailing arms attached and re-installed it solo. Use a jack to lower it. Remove the differential, then get a dolly under it to get it out. It is not that heavy,I did full inspection on both and started disassembly on the ZHP today. I will post a couple pics tomorrow. Man the touring is mint underneath. Zero rust anywhere.
Both had never been touched from the trans to the hubs. Original rubber everywhere and even original rear shocks. Both rear diff bushings are toast. On the ZHP all 4 exhaust studs snapped, but it's ok, as I am happy to have new in there anyway. Otherwise, only one little screw broke where the little cover screws on to the aluminum brace between the front subframe mounts hooped under the pinion. That should be an easy fix, so I'll take it.
Everything is ready to disconnect the brake lines, unscrew the trailing arm brackets and 4 subframe bolts from the body and drop the whole assembly out tomorrow. A decent evening of casual wrenching. Getting it up on 4 jack stands was the hardest part.
How much do you think the subframe with diff, hubs, brakes and all the arms -less wheels, shocks and springs- weighs? I wonder if two strong helpers could squat it down onto a moving dolly...
How many miles did yours have at the time? And so after replacing them all, aside from the RTABs, how did the inner and outers on the upper and lowers look?I asked myself this same question for all the ball joints and bushings. Then l realized that wouldn’t want to go back in there anytime soon so I went for it.
I’m actually in the middle of taking it all apart. Car has 234k when I got it, 236k now. I’ve decided to shotgun it since everything seems to be shot front to rear wise.How many miles did yours have at the time? And so after replacing them all, aside from the RTABs, how did the inner and outers on the upper and lowers look?
Unsure if these are the right size, but we use something very similar.Any tips on how to cap or plug the metal brake lines after I disconnect the rubber lines? What size fitting are the metal brake lines?
I did mine at ~215k. I just replaced the lower trailing arms with new Lemforder since they weren't much more expensive than the bushings alone and it meant that I wouldn't have to solve fore keeping the gap open while pressing the bushings.How many miles did yours have at the time? And so after replacing them all, aside from the RTABs, how did the inner and outers on the upper and lowers look?
Which bushing was out of stock?Well, I ordered up most of what I need, but since I built my order yesterday, 2 of the subframe bushings have gone out of stock. I will have to find an alternate...
I ordered the lower control arms too. They weren't expensive and that is one less bushing to press...
I am starting with the more worn of the two - I am reusing the touring parts back into the ZHP, so I will keep a close eye on each bushing and see if some are a waste of time and $.
The front main subframe bushings - both left and right. 33 31 6 770 783 and 33 31 6 770 784Which bushing was out of stock?
33316770815 and 33316770816 are identical to 33 31 6 770 783 and 33 31 6 770 784. Direct Lemforder OE substitution (Lemforder part numbers LEM271-2001 and LEM271-2101).The front main subframe bushings - both left and right. 33 31 6 770 783 and 33 31 6 770 784
FCP had them yesterday, but now all out of stock, their kits too. I was trying to stick with Lemforder and Meyle HD and those seem hard to find elsewhere too. But I did order a pair at more than twice the price after shipping from ECS, but they seem to be backed up at their warehouse and shipping out might not happen as fast as I am used to. Otherwise FCP was killing it on prices for most of these parts, so I have a pretty big order with their fastest shipping method in as of this morning. I couldn't afford to use FCP's free shipping as that has been just terrible lately.
I think I will tear a bit more off the subframe before I drop it from the car as my helpers aren't available this evening to help me muscle it as a whole as I had originally planned. Diff, brakes and axles at least... Aside from the brake lines, it is ready to drop now
You are a wealth of information. I didn't see those numbers pop up anywhere.33316770815 and 33316770816 are identical to 33 31 6 770 783 and 33 31 6 770 784. Direct Lemforder OE substitution (Lemforder part numbers LEM271-2001 and LEM271-2101).
Available and not super expensive