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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Going through my third year with an M54 to care about and oil drinking has gotten pretty high lately. Fixed a VCG leak recently and I've got a slight rear main leak, nothing major.

I've been topping it up at a rate of 1/2000 km, but what worried me was burning through 0'5 litres of oil in somewhat like 300 km in a track day.

After much reading I've come to the conclusion that my scraper rings have 270000 km worth of carbon to them, so I wanna try and clean some of the buildup since I've got to change the oil anyway.

What's the crankcase vacuum with the M56 valve cover oil separator? I think my rings would benefit from increased crankcase vacumm to help them movin. I've got the M56 VC but been running it with the original CCV, diafragm was torn so I kept my CCV for the time being.

So what's the order of the day? Piston soak? 02pilot? M56 oil separator? Some help please :)
 

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I would start simple with the 02pilot mod. It’s quick, easy and cheap. Also, there are 2 other rubber caps at the back of the cylinder head. They are old and brittle at this point in time so I’d buy new caps before you do the mod. Otherwise you could end up with vacuum leaks. Buy them at your dealer as most parts store won’t stock them.
 

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2002 330i 5spd
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Try the Liqui Moly engine flush and their Leichtlauf oil. (ECS carries Liqui Moly products.) I would not believe it had I not seen it personally. I'm at about 4,500 miles (7,200 km) since I used the engine flush and oil and have seen a huge decrease in oil consumption. I was going through about a quart of oil every 500 miles (800 km.) I've added about a quart since switching to the LM Leichtlauf oil.

My engine is an M54B30 with 249,000 miles (400,000 km.) I replaced all of the vacuum lines and caps and the CCV just over a year ago and it only made a slight difference in consumption.

See these threads:
Oil for a high mileage 330xi

LiquiMoly Oil Additives?

-Jeff
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Doing the above 2 and making the first two oil changes aggressive with mileage, should bring about a satisfactory outcome.
 

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Don,

I can't thank you enough for the Liqui Moly recommendation. It really is amazing to see the drop in consumption so quickly. Since I am currently at 4,500 miles with my first run of the Leichtlauf oil, when would you suggest changing the oil?

My daughter has a similar consumption issue with a VW Passat. I'm going to try the engine flush and Leichtlauf oil on it next.

Thanks!
-Jeff
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Don,

I can't thank you enough for the Liqui Moly recommendation. It really is amazing to see the drop in consumption so quickly. Since I am currently at 4,500 miles with my first run of the Leichtlauf oil, when would you suggest changing the oil?

My daughter has a similar consumption issue with a VW Passat. I'm going to try the engine flush and Leichtlauf oil on it next.

Thanks!
-Jeff
NOW
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pretty pricey this 5w40 Leichtlauf... I've been buying Motul 5w40 8100 X-CESS at 25 € per 5 litres and the cheapest I could find the Liqui Moly is 45 €. Really hope it does the job!
 

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You should have seen it when I was there. 1979-1983. Imported goods had 100% import tax!

Yes the L-M works. It not magic, so don't expect results overnight.
The L-M engine flush would help on the oil change before the switch.
 

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This famous m54B30 oil consumption...
Honestly I may not be a lucky guy, because I tried everything and the best I could get was a 1 quart for 1300 miles and it was with a lot of vacuum.
I tried to soak the engine multiple times with different product, no success.
Did the o2 pilot mod, no success.
Tried different oil, still nothing.
Installed m56 valve cover, still drinking.
Changed the plastic cap of the VC by a hand made aluminum one, with a new diaphragm and a very hard spring and yes, this time it improved the oil consumption.
But I was getting a lot of vacuum under the crank case... not sure it's good on the long run
 

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Yeah, the reason why the M54B30 eats oil is the low tension oil control rings. Coupled with that are the the oil drain holes in the oil control ring land. “Land” is the groove in the piston in which the ring sits. These holes tend to get carboned up due to the heat affecting the oil. I saw a vid of a guy checking out the carboned up holes in the land. The stuff is hard as a diamond. Basically he tossed the pistons and bought new ones. He enlarged the oil drain holes in the oil control ring land just to make sure they didn’t clog up.
 

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IDK if I'd be fooking with anywhere the ring lands are, and I'm brave!

Best medicine is prevention. Good oil and change frequently. No issues to deal with down the road.
At the end of a day, month, life of the car; oil changes are cheap.
Besides clean engines run better. No s#!t. Rings float and compression is high.
 

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Yeah, the reason why the M54B30 eats oil is the low tension oil control rings. Coupled with that are the the oil drain holes in the oil control ring land. “Land” is the groove in the piston in which the ring sits. These holes tend to get carboned up due to the heat affecting the oil. I saw a vid of a guy checking out the carboned up holes in the land. The stuff is hard as a diamond. Basically he tossed the pistons and bought new ones. He enlarged the oil drain holes in the oil control ring land just to make sure they didn’t clog up.
you can get carbon blockage in the ring land drains, but the far more common issue is clogged drain holes in the oil rings themselves. OEM ring supplier Mahle updated the oil ring drain holes and made them longer slits. Most of the time - I have pulled 6-7 sets of M54 pistons, I see clogged holes in oil rings and clean drains in the ring lands
 

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I see clogged holes in oil rings and clean drains in the ring lands

I see this more and more with newer cars; low drag rings, sealed CCV systems, thin oil and egregiously long oil change intervals.
Takes me back to the first engine I pulled apart. A Chevy 6 cyl. 230Ci.
SSDD
 

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So, what’s the stuff that’s blocking the oil control ring drains? Can GM Delco top end cleaner dissolve the gunk? What other products can dissolve the stuff?
 

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As you know I've been chasing this for a while. I posted a few times about what works and the soaking procedure. Top end cleaner is a good product (used to be better before the government of California got involved) however it becomes difficult to have the chemical seep past the first two rings, settle into the 3rd. (oil control) and then work it's way not only into the lower ring, but get into and THROUGH the holes.
Therefore a safe chemical added into the oil and the Liqui Moly 5-40 Leichtlauf and/or some ATF working it's cleaning action during running both at the underside and the outside of the piston gets the job done.

Albeit after a couple of treatments and a couple of oil changes. The only immediate gratification comes about by pulling the pistons, de-ringing and a soak in a 5 gal bucket of carburetor cleaner basket//solution overnight.
Too much work for me.
 

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So, what’s the stuff that’s blocking the oil control ring drains? Can GM Delco top end cleaner dissolve the gunk? What other products can dissolve the stuff?
It's carbonized oil / sludge that clogs up the tiny (too small) holes in the M54 original oil rings. BTW, other makes (Toyota?) have had this same issue from time to time. You can search on it.

Mr. MCar has talked about chemical treatments in the past which seem to help.
The video linked below discusses BG's multi-step "Dynamic Engine Treatment" Including a step where you fill the oil pan with special engine cleaner and idle the car at 3,000 rpms for 45 minutes...That would stress me out.. but this is something Mr. MCar has mentioned as well.

According to the video, the BG Dynamic Engine Treatment is only available through an authorized tech, you can't simply buy it online..Not sure about this.

I am not a big fan of this youtube poster (Watch JRgo), but his mechanic (the Car Ninja) is a BMW tech.

 

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3,000 rpms for 45 minutes...That would stress me out.. but this is something Mr. MCar has mentioned as well.

No sir. Didn't watch the video, however I would NOT run a car with chemicals in the oil @ 3K for any length of time. Fast idle and blips up there.
Slow and easy. If you need to do it twice (sludge bomb?) so be it.

My goal is to clean, not hurt the engine.

BTW I've had decent success with the treatment and after-treatments of L-M 5-40 and rapid oil changes. Just be patient.
In this 21st. century immediate gratification world, it seems counterproductive and hard to resist.
 

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I stand corrected....I checked and you did say run the engine at/near idle for about 1/2 the day (4 -6 hours?) That would still stress me out, but that's me...

Here is what you said - not complete post:

"...By chance I sat in on a class during our annual BIMRS training by Gary Smith, dealing with misfires, carbon & oil consumption. It was enlightening. I engaged Gary in a long after class conversation about the several cars I had for customers with the M54 oil consumption issue.
Although he has no affiliation with BG Products, he suggested the following:
Pour 1 can of BG "EPR" # 109 into the crankcase oil fill. Get the motor hot and let it run at/near idle for about 1/2 the day. (Heater was on full and hood open.) After such time bring into the shop. Jack up the right side of the car as much as we were comfortable with. (gets pistons/rings to lay flatter) Remove the spark plugs. CAREFULLY pour (in equal amounts) a 2nd. can of EPR equally distributed between the 6 cylinders and let sit overnight. Screwing in the sparkplugs about 1 full turn helped slow down evaporation of the chemical...."
 
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