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2003 BMW 325i 6AT
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been posted to death but I haven't been able to get this problem fixed. Here is what is happening: when the key is out of the ignition and the door is ajar, the car chimes and the tail lights stay on (the ones on the trunk). None of the key fob buttons work either and it cannot be paired with the car. What I have tried: replacing fuse 67, replacing the ignition switch, testing without the ignition switch connected (still chimes), testing every fuse (with a cheap little fuse tester, not sure if these are reliable). I got it to stop when the other anti theft fuse was removed (fuse 49), but I still couldn't pair the key to the car. Replacing the fuse with a new one made it go back to chiming. There was a leak that got into the fusebox in the glovebox and there is a bit of corrosion so I was planning on removing all the fuses, replacing any that look suspect, and cleaning all of the contacts on the fusebox. The key is a new key purchased and coded from the dealership, but I have never been able to get it to pair. Does anyone else have any ideas for how to approach this problem? Is there something I should be looking at in PA Soft or INPA? I read that it could be the GM5 module as well. I was planning on removing it to inspect if there was any visible corrosion on the box. I have other weird electrical issues like the brights being on all the time (even with a replaced LCM). I am thinking a good place to start is by cleaning the fusebox contacts and maybe checking the ground points in the car. These electrical gremlins are frustrating 馃ぎ
 

Registered
2003 BMW 325i 6AT
Joined
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Watch this you'll find one answer @ 4:40
I think...

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I have replaced the LCM and it actually does require coding, you have to code the VIN and odometer info to it otherwise it triggers a tamper dot. But yeah unfortunately it hasn't fixed the issue. I think I need to code the LCM to defaults by flashing a blank .MAN file so I will try that when I get the software setup properly. I think I am going to try cleaning the fusebox and see if that clears up the weird electrical issues. IIRC a lot of the electrical problems for this car typically clear up in the summer so I bet it has to do with water and I still have some leaks. I found one on the drain from the sunroof near the drivers door that ruined my original LCM, I think there could still be one on the passenger side. I think the GM5 module could shot too if the fusebox was so bad, so I was gonna check that out too. I don't know what else the problem could be, if anyone has ideas that would be super helpful.
 

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I have replaced the LCM and it actually does require coding, you have to code the VIN and odometer info to it otherwise it triggers a tamper dot.
My experience (twice) has been that yes by replacing that unit, with the same part number...coding would not be needed. I was under your thinking as well...the key is that -it has to have the identical part number.

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