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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Here's a little trick. Even after opening up the cooling system and removing the pump there will still be some coolant in/around the water pump flange/exit.
I take a new (blue) shop towel and lay it into the coolant pool leftover. With most of the towel hanging down outside the engine. The towel has wicking (slow but effective) action. Over the next half hour while you're prepping other parts the towel will draw most of the coolant up and then down the rag into a pan under the engine.
A large screwdriver with grease on the end of it makes an excellent pseudo magnet.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Either should work, The idea is to raise the level of liquid in the block and force the bits out.
 

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While you're in there: Do yourself a HUGE favor and tighten up (just a little) the pin boss for the left side chain guide. The crush seal often weeps small amounts of oil and creates a "mystery" leak. Don't get the urge to remove it and replace the seal, the rail could move. Just a little tighter does the trick for another 100K.


# 10, resting on the side of the head, hidden by the thermostat housing.

what do you mean by “the rail could move..”

my bmw dealer is about to replace my waterpump and tstat+housing. I told the mechanic about that screw and he said he’s had to change them out a few times for other customer cars with oil leaks. He said he would do mine as well just to be safe and use a new crush washer. Should I ask him not to do it? And only to tighten it? If the rail moved when removing it wouldn’t the new screw have trouble going in and then it would be on the dealer to open it up and fix the positioning? If the screw does go back in fine, then wouldn’t that mean everything is accurately positioned inside?
 
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