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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So it's FINALLY gotten nice enough to start the front speaker replacement project, and I've gotten my passenger door panel off (I have a sedan).

For those that have replaced their front speakers AND ran their own wiring (I don't want to use factory wiring), how did you run them? I see the "conduit" between the door and the door jamb, but can you access the "body" side of that conduit by pulling off the trim panel right below the dashboard and pulling back the carpet?

I know it's more complex on the driver's side where you have to pull the panel down that's above the pedals, but please tell me I don't have to tear apart any part of the dashboard...
 

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umm..i think delirium has..
 

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if i may ask, why dont you wanna use the factory wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My car is leased, so want to be able to keep it as stock as possible. If I use the factory wiring, I'll have to cut the wiring to hook up to the amp.

Also, I'm a believer in doing something as well as possible when I do it the first time, and since I'm using good speakers and a great amp, I want to pass that power through 10-12ga speaker wire vs. the small gauge factory wiring.
 

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You dont nned to cut the wires. Just get the ISO adapters and cut them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mr. Stream, I'm not following you. What is an ISO adapter? And you say I don't have to cut them, but then you say I do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, was looking at the door wiring today, and it's thicker than I thought. That, with how much needs to be disassembled to fish the wire from the body to the door, means going with factory wiring -- I surrender...
 

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Has anyone noticed a worthwhile difference in sound by upgrading the speaker wiring from stock when using aftermarket speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's just the thing, virtually no one has replied to this post because I think everyone who's done a front upgrade thought it was too much trouble to install new wiring.
 

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If you splice into the factory wiring behind the kick panels - just before it enters the multi way plug for door connection, then there's only the few inches to connector and the 18 inches or so in the door of the factory cabling you'd be using.
I absolutely guarantee that the difference for that cable length would be inaudible in the car whether using factory or upgraded.

I did consider this myself, purely for the same idea of doing the job well but was unable to soruce the pins required to recable the door interconnect. There are 6 pins in the coupe loom, 4 small ones for the mid and tweeter pairs and then a larger pair for the mid bass driver. I ended up running new cables from the trunk mounted amps to the front of the car and splicing in to the factory looms just before they left the front to the door.

Just splice in, solder and heatshrink, then when the lease is up, a simple resplice and solder and no-one will know that you were ever in there.

Most manufacturers pass a single pair into the door and then split it passively for the various door mounted drivers - thank you BMW for at least having the sense to provide seperate feed to each driver through the door loom.
 

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not sure if it would give you significant gains, but it would be a lot of work just to get a very fine/minor upgrade in sound. i would just cut it at the harness and work with the stock wires. chances are, when you return the lease, they arent gonna check the harness
 

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i used the stock wire too - the sound would be slightly better from aftermarket wires - but its not worth the trouble - i have the diamond hex speakers - and they sound great with the stock wiring coming from my eclipse amp
 
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