E46 Fanatics Forum banner
41 - 60 of 78 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I know this thread is two years old but can I ask a question without offending anyone? Why on earth would anyone replace a bearing that only lasted 100k miles with the same brand of bearing? This is the day of 200k mile vehicles. I have a ford truck 4WD truck that the preferred wheel bearing is Timken! People get way too nuts with OEM stuff. I know these are the parts that all the durability testing is done with but sometimes other makers can do just as well. Just don't buy some $20 bearing off ebay!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,684 Posts
I know this thread is two years old but can I ask a question without offending anyone? Why on earth would anyone replace a bearing that only lasted 100k miles with the same brand of bearing? This is the day of 200k mile vehicles. I have a ford truck 4WD truck that the preferred wheel bearing is Timken! People get way too nuts with OEM stuff. I know these are the parts that all the durability testing is done with but sometimes other makers can do just as well. Just don't buy some $20 bearing off ebay!
YMMV. A top shelf bearing may last only 100k miles or 200k miles or more depending on driving conditions, environment, particular way the bearing was manufactured at the time, etc. Bottom line is install the best bearings you can. In this case it's any of the OEM manufacturers. Which reminds me i still need to replace the rest of my 3 bearings. hope those things don't go "bad" sitting in my closet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I just made a big boo-boo. I replaced a lower control arm on the front of my 01 325xi back in January. My daughter was driving home last night and told me at 9 PM that there was something wrong so it shook over 45 MPH. I checked it out and sure enough it did. The front bolts had come loose on lower arm I installed. I now fear that this violent shaking has caused my 100k on the edge of life wheel bearings to fail. I switched tires on the right first with no improvement. Now I hope the bearing will stay together until I gather all the parts and tools I need to change it. The car is driven by a 20 year old daughter that can't seem to sit still. ( College, work, boyfriend, volunteer work etc )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
I know this thread is two years old but can I ask a question without offending anyone? Why on earth would anyone replace a bearing that only lasted 100k miles with the same brand of bearing? This is the day of 200k mile vehicles. I have a ford truck 4WD truck that the preferred wheel bearing is Timken! People get way too nuts with OEM stuff. I know these are the parts that all the durability testing is done with but sometimes other makers can do just as well. Just don't buy some $20 bearing off ebay!
True enough, the tapered roller bearings could theoretically last forever, provided they are correctly installed. When the grease seals fail and allow grease to leak out and contaminants into the bearing, this spells premature failure for the bearing. Those living in the rust belt with vast annual fluctuations in temperature will see accelerated wear of the seals and, therefore, bearing failure. A seized brake caliper can also cook the seals and spell an early doom for wheel bearings. Whenever possible, I always replace the inboard seals when replacing half shafts -- no such luck with the sealed bearings on the e46.

If there's no play in the wheel, you should be fine for a little while. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
603 Posts
Shut your Isle of Dogs mouth. You've had your car for three years and put less than 10,000 miles on it. You have no idea what bearings your car has, let alone how much mileage they have.
Ahahaha :lmao:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
ugggh! I switched to summer tires and left the driver side tires loose. I heard the noise on the test drive and switched the passenger side tires front to rear. (recall the lower right front control arm had come loose). My daughter came walking in the house saturday with a lug bolt in her hand. OMG I almost wrecked my 325xi with my daughter in it! I tightened them and when the weather is better and I no longer have this killer sinus cold I will check to see how bad I messed up the back of the wheels. I have new bearings on the way but I will have time to put them in. Ended up with *** bearings. The best deal out there. thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Definitely, thanks for the heads up. My daughter's car has 190k on it and although there are no obvious signs (to me) that her wheel bearings are bad or going bad, I want to change them out before she starts her daily commute to school in the fall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,464 Posts
Old school thread bump. Just got mine from AutoZone yesterday for $47.99 each.

Look and feel high quality, can't tell a difference between these and OEM. Timken is publicly traded and I feel like I can trust them. Either way, anything is going to be better than my current bearings. They're not going to wear out again before I sell my car in the future. That's all I care about.
 

·
auto parts genius
Joined
·
24,093 Posts
Old school thread bump. Just got mine from AutoZone yesterday for $47.99 each.

Look and feel high quality, can't tell a difference between these and OEM. Timken is publicly traded and I feel like I can trust them. Either way, anything is going to be better than my current bearings. They're not going to wear out again before I sell my car in the future. That's all I care about.
Check my thread too.

The Timken's are not Timken. They're Koyo or F.A.G.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
damaging the ABS-sensor when replacing bearing

when people change their bearings they always recommend removing the ABS sensor because they are afraid of damaging it. when i replaced my bearing I dont SEE how removing the bearings could ever damage the sensors. can someone explain?
Hi, as far as I can imagine is that it could be damaged then you remove the drive shaft because the ABS-ring is mounted on the drive shaft and the sensor is pretty close to it, or?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
I'll stick with bearings from the company that is the only one that has been able to meet U.S Navy spec for use in their nuclear attack subs for the last 30 years. No outsourcing like Timken etc, all made in house. Mentioned once in this thread but well known to those who appreciate quality over cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
I'll stick with bearings from the company that is the only one that has been able to meet U.S Navy spec for use in their nuclear attack subs for the last 30 years. No outsourcing like Timken etc, all made in house. Mentioned once in this thread but well known to those who appreciate quality over cost.
Are you speaking about the duramaxs? Cause I'm pretty sure the stuff they produce for military contracts orders are manufactured a bit better than their consumer grade hardware.
 
41 - 60 of 78 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top