Wheel bearing opinion needed

but does it make noise while it’s on ground “loaded” while driving? you do the typical turn from one side and then the other side to unload/load the bearing to see if sounds different?

sounds like it’s in its first stages of beginning to go out. but this can take a while. at 200k it‘s done well. curious how the other side sounds while doing the same test that found the noise.

alan53 said:

Whilst doing a sensor replacement i had my front caliper and disc off exposing the hub.I noticed that when i turned it the hub made a metallic noise and yet when the car brakes and wheels were back on the car there is no movement using the 12 o clock/3 o clock test on the raised wheel.So what is the sound? Is it the beginning of a failure? Would it be best to just replace the front bearings as they are over 200kmiles.

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It would start to make "wobling" noise before noticeable movement as the bearings will run dry and hotter

Edit.. found one of my own videos back in 2013

Thanks Paraklas thats what i heard,another job to do.

I would guess the grease might have dried out (or partially dried out) in the bearing, but the bearing has yet to wear from that to the extent where it develops play. You've caught it early, in other words. Good news is front wheel bearings aren't expensive or difficult to change.

I agree with both of your opinions its at 200k miles as you say dried out symptoms yet to develop.Is there a preference on make for wheel bearings i am thinking LUK for some reason.

alan53 said:

I agree with both of your opinions its at 200k miles as you say dried out symptoms yet to develop.Is there a preference on make for wheel bearings i am thinking LUK for some reason.

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SKF and F.A.G. are OEM and your best bet.

F-A-G is censored for some reason... hmm

4aceman said:

F-A-G is censored

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Yes, some words like “f a g”, “d y k e”, etc. are censored by the website because derogatory.
But you can say FUCK all day long. 🤪

alan53 said:

Thanks Paraklas thats what i heard,another job to do.

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It's a fairly easy job to do however things can get complicated:
1. The bearing race getting stuck on the steering knuckle. Heat is your friend, otherwise carefully cut with a dremel, or hit with a hammer after making a notch on it.
2. Bending the brake shield and then wondering where the rubbing noise comes from.
3. Torque to specs, you will need a thin socket to fit.
4. Get new bearing caps, new nuts if not already included in the kit, new brake shield bolts

4aceman said:

SKF and F.A.G. are OEM and your best bet.

F-A-G is censored for some reason... hmm

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Note if you go for the SKF they use a different (improved, they say) design with an integrated rear dust seal, so you discard the separate factory rear dust seal

alan53 said:

I agree with both of your opinions its at 200k miles as you say dried out symptoms yet to develop.Is there a preference on make for wheel bearings i am thinking LUK for some reason.

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F.A.G. is OE. that’s the brand i use with no problems. it’s not a difficult replacement. just read prior and follow the DIYs and tools needed. as Paraklas pointed out you may run into some extra work if it doesn’t come off one piece.

and good point from Elfer, I remember years ago someone posted on forum with this non-OE part fitment issue. we found out about their different design causing it.

I PM'd my fronts on my then new to me 330 at 210k. Old ones looked/sounded ok but 200k, so. One inner race came off by hand, the other popped off with a puller.

Went with the SFK bearings because RockAuto had them for a big discount. If you use these, you do not need the inner dust covers. No issues so far.

I used this tool to pull the stuck inner race, although I only remember paying $17 for it.

Bearing Puller & Separator Set w/ 2” & 3” Diameter Splitters Tool 12 Piece | eBay

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I will go with the OE F.A.G. bearings and do the dust shields too on the front and schedule rears for replacement as they are originals.