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Yes, use the sport settings now with those springs. I have them on my car too which was originally non-sport and as a tech I've done my own alignment twice and have very good tire wear characteristics. I did not use any ballast weight other than the junk in my trunk and a random amount of gas.
 

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I just did a level 1 and 2 suspension refresh using Bilstein Sport struts and shocks and Eibach pro springs. Should I use the sport BMW alignment specs because of the lower and more aggressive suspension or should I use something else, eventhough I have a 99' 328i Sedan with regular suspension prior to the upgrade?
 

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Great info here, but my brain is too full of numbers right now so here's my question.

Doing a full suspension refresh on a 2002 Touring w/Sport Package--struts & shocks, (incl f&r mounts), FCA's, Z4M offset CAB's, inner/outer tie rods, steering coupler, M3 RTAB's, AKG RTAB shims.

Should I use factory sport suspension alignment specs?
 

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I have what I think is a quick question. I had the dealer do an alignment I think back in June. A few days ago I was under the hood and noticed the alignment holes and nuts on the ? Strut tower" were off quite a bit from the original location. The service guy did tell me the tie rods were frozen but it was within specs. The Pic below I s the one in question on the drivers side. ill put the passenger side in a post below. Does this seem right?
 

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I have what I think is a quick question. I had the dealer do an alignment I think back in June. A few days ago I was under the hood and noticed the alignment holes and nuts on the ? Strut tower" were off quite a bit from the original location. The service guy did tell me the tie rods were frozen but it was within specs. The Pic below I s the one in question on the drivers side. ill put the passenger side in a post below. Does this seem right?
All that matters are the final specs. Do you have the result sheet?

As for the difference, you towers may have deformed or they simply didn't do a correct job.
 

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All that matters are the final specs. Do you have the result sheet?

As for the difference, you towers may have deformed or they simply didn't do a correct job.
Yes. The dealer gave me a sheet, it shows the afterwards that they were all within range.

Thinking about this more I wonder if I did it by beating on the control arm trying to remove it, and maybe they missed it in the alignment and made the adjustment elsewhere. Is that possible?
 

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Yes. The dealer gave me a sheet, it shows the afterwards that they were all within range.

Thinking about this more I wonder if I did it by beating on the control arm trying to remove it, and maybe they missed it in the alignment and made the adjustment elsewhere. Is that possible?
You would have a lot more negative camber on that side if that was the case.

Do you have actual results?
 

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If anybody is still following this thread, I have a question. Is it possible for the caster to end up changed depending on how someone replaces the front control arms?
 
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