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Discussion Starter #1
I have M-Tech 1 and there are square holes about 3" or so, about 18" from the brakes. Do I have to remove the hubs to change the plates?
I would think it could dramatically help track braking, even for driving schools.
 

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Companies make backing plates that allow you to install and remove them without taking the hub off. You'll have to cut your OEM backing plates off. I do suggest being careful when you do so because the ABS sensor and tooth wheel is under there. If I was doing it, I'd just go ahead and remove the hub (the hub and bearing is all one unit) and install a new one on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was thinking the same thing, at 105k miles it may be a good idea to do front wheel bearings anyway. Is it pretty easy considering I do have the proper torque wrench, I think all I need (that I don't have) is a 46mm thin walled socket?

Oh also should mention, I still drive this car part time on the street, perhaps 5k miles per year. Is this a bad idea for street driving?
 

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I drive with mine on the street, full cooling ducts, hose and backing plates. No issues so far. Its not a 100% daily driver so if I know there is going to be a deluge of rain, I don't take it out, I just drive my truck. I had a shop install them so can't comment on that piece but MrShelly already weighed in so you already have great input there.
 

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If you change the hubs, I suggest new dust caps and nuts. As for a socket, a 1-13/16" works just fine. Sears has them. You might need to buy a 3/4" drive breaker bar. As for tightening it (and taking it off) I just use a jack handle on the end of the breaker bar.

I just run the Turner ducts for the bumper (the CF ones that work on an M3) and have backing plates I made up many moons ago (they require the hub to be removed if I need to take them off). As long as you get some air pumping through those rotors, you'll be set.
 

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What is the optimal routing for a 3" hose on the non-Ms?
 
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